Rear engine seal replacement

[pacecarta]

sorry typo BS 40613
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-bs40613

 

[eagleguy]

Did everything as recommended. Rear seal dry for two days, now I see a drop or two of oil on my pan. No flooding out like before but still not perfect as I had hoped.

 

[TURBOELKY]

There's no way to keep it from leaking 100%. The crank wasn't designed for a rubber seal. I'm positive your drip or two is not from anywhere you used any kind of sealant, but from the actual seal riding on the crank. Here a drop, there a drop...don't be alarmed. At least it's not shooting out of the pan, I've seen that!

 

[eagleguy]

There's no way to keep it from leaking 100%. The crank wasn't designed for a rubber seal. I'm positive your drip or two is not from anywhere you used any kind of sealant, but from the actual seal riding on the crank. Here a drop, there a drop...don't be alarmed. At least it's not shooting out of the pan, I've seen that!

Thanks for the info. As of today some days I have a drop or two other days nothing. Would still rather have nothing but things are much better than before!

 

[whitehot1]

Did you keep squeezing the RTV into the side cavities until you could see it coming out of the crack between the main cap and the block?

I have done a few of these rear main seals and that is how i get them not to leak any oil. I also let it sit for around a week or more to let the RTV cure as well as it can before i put any oil in the engine. My turbo regal is only for pleasure driving so i have no problem letting it sit for that long or longer.

 

[Slix]

hard to believe you couldnt find anything?? ..try google and add turbobuick works great
heres one http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/rearmain.html

heres my go at it

factory is rope , replace with felpro neoprene BS4o613
a for best way , really only one way and its lotsa fun ..
get car on a lift ,
remove crossover pipe and converter shield
drain and drop oil pan.. lotsa fun..its tight fit with stock old motor mounts and you may need to raise engine a little and rotate crank to get pan out
pull rear main bearing cap ..mo' fun
pull block half rope seal from block ( more fun dont scratch crank ) they sell a sneaky pete for this but ive never had to use one , push seal in on one side grab seal at other side with needle nose pliers
clean block sides and face , hit with blast of brake clean to get rid of any oil
slide the new seal half into the block around the crankshaft
clean main cap thoroughly ( dont damage the bearing shell) , install new seal half into cap and apply RTV sealer to side cavities and a smear on cap face , put some assembly lube on bearing face ..dont dilly dally , reinstall main cap being careful not to knock the bearing shell loose
torque cap bolt to spec
squeeze more sealer up into side cavities until it comes out the corners at top
clean up pan and pan rail of block ,
install pan with new pan gasket
replace crossover and converter shield
fill with oil and prime engine before firing (disconnect ignition module , pull spark plugs , crank and verify oil pressure )
replace plugs and fire up

Thanks doing my 2 piece now, appreciate the tips

 

[raregn]

I have a 1 piece rear main seal in mine. My GN is dry as a popcorn fart underneath.
Only down side to using the 1 piece is it has to be done with the crankshaft out.
I've done tons of the Fel-pro 2 piece neoprene rear mains and never had one leak after.
The factory rope seal is what took out my engine last year. If you still have the rope seal in your car and it leaks (and it most likely does), change it!
As we all know it's not the actual rear crank seal that leaks, it's the side seals that leak.

 

[Slix]

I have a 1 piece rear main seal in mine. My GN is dry as a popcorn fart underneath.
Only down side to using the 1 piece is it has to be done with the crankshaft out.
I've done tons of the Fel-pro 2 piece neoprene rear mains and never had one leak after.
The factory rope seal is what took out my engine last year. If you still have the rope seal in your car and it leaks (and it most likely does), change it!
As we all know it's not the actual rear crank seal that leaks, it's the side seals that leak.

Wondering if you had a part number for the one piece seal? Just did mine, but used a 2 piece.. wish I had known as I had the crank out.

 

[Jerryl]

Compliments of @Steve V

 

[ek02]

I have a 1 piece rear main seal in mine. My GN is dry as a popcorn fart underneath.
Only down side to using the 1 piece is it has to be done with the crankshaft out.
I've done tons of the Fel-pro 2 piece neoprene rear mains and never had one leak after.
The factory rope seal is what took out my engine last year. If you still have the rope seal in your car and it leaks (and it most likely does), change it!
As we all know it's not the actual rear crank seal that leaks, it's the side seals that leak.

How does a one piece rear main seal go over the crankshaft flywheel flange? Maybe you mean the front crankshaft seal in the timing cover ?

 

[joeb1300]

Any suggestions on changing rear main with a girdled crank? Also what kind of gasket is best. . Not sure if it is even that or the back of oil pan leaking , starter soaked and crossover pipe. . Which I don’t understand how with a converter cover . Rest of engine Is dry.

 

[THensley]

I don't have a girdled engine but I see no way I would tacker it in the car. It's not drop the pan and pull the rear main cap.
Me. I think it would take 4-8 more hours to R&R the engine turns it upside down in the stand and be 100% sure I did it right. And that's a ungirdled.
And I have a lift so I would not be laying on my back.
I think its good chance it between the pan and the girdle time to get a case of brake clean remove the starter and start investigation.
I like cork pan gasket But the rubber Fel Pro was good too.

 

[Rick the pool guy]

 

[Rick the pool guy]

 

[Rick the pool guy]

Also check panbolts with Allen key to make sure they didn't get loose and backed out

 

[Rick the pool guy]

Also check panbolts with Allen key to make sure they didn't get loose and backed out

I marked the bolts that you want to check out basically all of them with the Allen key

 

[Rick the pool guy]

I marked the bolts that you want to check out basically all of them with the Allen key

After checking all the bolts make sure to clean the girdle and pan with brake cleaner after cleaning apply right stuff as shown in video.
Now you want to wait 24hrs before adding oil .

 

[joeb1300]

I don't have a girdled engine but I see no way I would tacker it in the car. It's not drop the pan and pull the rear main cap.
Me. I think it would take 4-8 more hours to R&R the engine turns it upside down in the stand and be 100% sure I did it right. And that's a ungirdled.
And I have a lift so I would not be laying on my back.
I think its good chance it between the pan and the girdle time to get a case of brake clean remove the starter and start investigation.
I like cork pan gasket But the rubber Fel Pro was good too.

Yep took crossover pipe off. Picked up a case of brake clean. Cleaned everything up will come back tomorrow and investigate. Car hasn’t been driven in a year. Last time the starter didn’t want to turn off when hot. Bought a high torque starter went under to change and saw all that oil. Went right back out from under . My only fear is the car catching on fire with oil on crossover pipe. Just don’t understand how if it’s leaking out the rear main it should leak out the bottom of converter cover . Debating on taking to a shop but honestly don’t know anyone around me I can trust to do it right.

 

[Rick the pool guy]

Where do you live

 

[joeb1300]

Where do you live

Spartanburg SC