Rear lower control arm decision

[T- Type Tim]

I'm in the middle of installing a new ford 9 " rearend

Found my lower control arms have serious slop. Time to replace

Going with non adj tubular uppers

Should I go with tubular lowers or boxed?

Also if I go tubular should I go adjustable or not?

Currently I have ssm lift bars which are boxed but it's time for those to go!
Please share any input you have on your preferances

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

I like UMI Performance --> http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_60 Customer service is GREAT, MADE IN THE USA!
but there are a lot of other great vendors too - HR Parts&Stuff and METCO are awesome vendors who come out and support BUICK Events and are MADE IN THE USA!


hth
aaron

 

[6APPEAL]

I'm using HRpartsNstuff rear suspension on mine with a 9". Sway bar, non-adjustable lowers (+1/4" long), adjustable uppers. No issues, great service.

 

[T- Type Tim]

Yes I have umi uppers and am lookin at umi lowers just not sure which type

 

[toofastforyou]

I have a Dana 60 rear axle and use some adjustable H&R uppers and adjustable Wolfe lowers…All of them are the "tubular" style…

Claude.

 

[Ttype6]

The uppers should be adjustable. Tubular or boxed makes no difference.The most important thing is to stay away from a solid bushing. It works as a hing and only allows the bar to move up and down. It doesn't allow the bar to move left and right and,more importantly,to twist when one tire wants to move up into the wheel well and the other want to move down away from it's wheel well. Every time you turn into a driveway with an incline or move diagonally over a speed bump,your asking your suspension to move in this manner.

 

[T- Type Tim]

Solid uppers and adj lowerers?
That's where I'm headed I think

 

[Ttype6]

The uppers need to be adjustable. The lowers,not necessarily.
Solid bushings are bad.

 

[toofastforyou]

Solid bushings are bad.

They're not necessarily "bad" but they're not for everyone. Yes they ride a little more harsh but they're meant for cars making serious horsepower and especially the ones which use a spool. I had some H&R lowers with urethane bushings and they couldn't keeping the axle straight under the car because they were still too soft and made the tires rub against the front of the wheel opening mouldings when I turned. So I followed Jack's advice and went with the Wolfe lowers with adjustable rod ends. Never regretted it.

Claude.

 

[T- Type Tim]

Ok , when I said solid , I meant non adjustable. sorry. All bushings are poly urethane

I guess I need help understanding why no one sets the pinion angle with adjustable lowers only and non adjustable uppers? I was able to do that with my old setup.
My reason for wanting the lowers adjustable is for the ease of making the adjustments instead of getting to the uppers .

thx

 

[toomanymodz]

I went with adjustable uppers so that I can set both the pinion angle, and center the rear housing under the car. Often the rear isn't perfectly centered and big tires can rub on one side.

As for lowers, I love the look of the solid Metco aluminum lowers.

 

[T- Type Tim]

why not the lowers?....looks aside

 

[jlat]

hello people; I recently went with Hotchkis uppers just because I have there lowers. That is all.
IBBY

 

[toomanymodz]

why not the lowers?....looks aside

The adjustable uppers give me all the adjustability that I need. Adding adjustable lowers to the mix would allow me to move the rear housing forward or rear-ward, but I'd probably just end up messing things up too much. It's still on the table for me to decide. I have purchased only the uppers thus far.

 

[T- Type Tim]

that's my thinking as well

since I have a new set of non adjustable uppers , I figure just having the lowers should get the adjustability I want, instead of having both

 

[toomanymodz]

that's my thinking as well

since I have a new set of non adjustable uppers , I figure just having the lowers should get the adjustability I want, instead of having both

True, at least you can adjust the pinion angle, but you won't have the ability to center the rear. If your tire clearance is the same on both sides then I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[pacecarta]

with the 9" youll want the uppers adjustable because the 9 has raised mounting point so fixed at stock length uppers wont be ideal , and you can center the rear to allow the largest tire to fit with fixed uppers
the lowers can be fixed or adjustable but given that there are variations with the welding of brackets for the rears i personal would want the lowers also adjustable

as for the ends avoid the southside solid style as they can bind the suspension,
that leaves you with poly, roto or heim is up to you but as mentioned . the poly have the greater tendancy to bind, they give more so they are softer on the frame mounting brackets but also can allow more movement than desired , the roto and heim has the greatest articulation but can be hard on frame and the frame should be reinforced

i went with the wolfe double adjustable heim ends chromoly uppers and lowers and did the aluminum pivot bushings in the axle ears , and the hrparts frame reinforcement brackets

 

[T- Type Tim]

going to use these ,just put them on

 

[T- Type Tim]

South side bars are coming off as soon as a decision is made as to what king of lowers to use

 

[Ttype6]

going to use these ,just put them on
View attachment 225996 View attachment 225997

Those aren't adjustable and allow for zero articulation. Bad Choice!