Recommended Spark Plugs??

[Spool'n Fool]

I want to change out the plugs in my 84 GN (Big mouth air, 87 coil pack, adjustable fuel reg and waste gate 12 psi setting)..

What is recommended for my daily driver in South FL?

Thanks!

 

[Jerryl]

I want to change out the plugs in my 84 GN (Big mouth air, 87 coil pack, adjustable fuel reg and waste gate 12 psi setting)..

What is recommended for my daily driver in South FL?

AC 23 or 24's - Gap 0.032

 

[cool 84]

How about AC cr42ts. 24s might be a little cold lol. I like the cr but they're a little hard to find sometimes. The regular AC42ts work fine too. I have noticed that with extended freeway use, the 42s will get a little carbon on them. I usually make at least one WOT run a day and they're fine.

 

[Spool'n Fool]

I ended up with the AC42's... Only I gapped them .045 because thats what the autoparts screen said to do..

Think it'll make a big difference?

 

[Jerryl]

I ended up with the AC42's... Only I gapped them .045 because thats what the autoparts screen said to do..

Think it'll make a big difference?

Had my numbers etc. all -up.
As far as the gap .... most run around a 0.032 gap on the average car.

Try the 0.045" gap. When the car starts missing, change it to 0.032" and let us know. :tongue:

 

[T- Type Tim]

No one running UR5 s?

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Im running the NGK UR5s - 2771 gapped at 30 with the Taylor made 409 wires.

Not to hijack the thread, but does the 87 coil conversion make a difference? I know the 87 coils are cheaper and easier to find, but my coil is fine. Is it an improvement or one of those things to switch whenever it goes bad? Want to keep mine hot air. TIA

 

[tenright]

NGK UR5's here gapped at 32.....The stock plug is a 4 ngk are reversed the higher the # the colder the plug....5's are a step colder.


T

 

[tenright]

Not to hijack the thread, but does the 87 coil conversion make a difference? I know the 87 coils are cheaper and easier to find, but my coil is fine. Is it an improvement or one of those things to switch whenever it goes bad? Want to keep mine hot air. TIA

87 conversion allows things like the LS1 MAF conversion, additionally you can't run a scanmaster without it...because you simply cannot get a descent 84/85 MAF anymore the 87 conversion is almost manditory to keep the car going....


T

 

[cool 84]

Im running the NGK UR5s - 2771 gapped at 30 with the Taylor made 409 wires.

Not to hijack the thread, but does the 87 coil conversion make a difference? I know the 87 coils are cheaper and easier to find, but my coil is fine. Is it an improvement or one of those things to switch whenever it goes bad? Want to keep mine hot air. TIA

I've heard the hotair coil gives a more powerful spark. Don't know if it's true but I do know my car idled better and ran better under high boost with the 87 coil pack.

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Thanks to both of you. Im just throwing the bolt-ons to my car now. So far I have installed:

Walbro 340 Hotwired, new plugs and wires, rebuilt the tranny, new stall (2100 rpm)

Have ordered and plan to order more, ie Upgrade to 87 Coil and ECM a scantool, boost, tach and knock gauges. There are a lot of things I didnt realize were needed to make these cars run right.

Its an 85 GN, 114K unopened block. Leaks oil almost everywhere, but a serious rebuild is planned for this coming winter. Doesn't run bad at all now, but my end goal is to get it streetable and take it to the track and turn 11.anything.

 

[tenright]

my end goal is to get it streetable and take it to the track and turn 11.anything.

most every hot air owner wants to achieve 11 anything, but if I were you I would shoot more in the 12 range. That is doable with bolt on's 11's are a tough nut to crack with the hot air setup.

Its an 85 GN, 114K unopened block. Leaks oil almost everywhere

As for oil leaking from everywhere, put some dye in the oil and trace it with a black light. Most autoparts stores sell kits for this. You will most likely see it looks like it is leaking from the corners of the heads. Look very closely at the seam between the head and the block and you may find as most do that it is actually leaking from the intake manifold in the back, running down the head gasket seam and the pretty much going everywhere. If the oil is steaking on the floor this is most likely the case. Was with mine streaked all over the place, replaced the intake gaskets and my floor is dry...


T

 

[cool 84]

Thanks to both of you. Im just throwing the bolt-ons to my car now. So far I have installed:

Walbro 340 Hotwired, new plugs and wires, rebuilt the tranny, new stall (2100 rpm)

Have ordered and plan to order more, ie Upgrade to 87 Coil and ECM a scantool, boost, tach and knock gauges. There are a lot of things I didnt realize were needed to make these cars run right.

Its an 85 GN, 114K unopened block. Leaks oil almost everywhere, but a serious rebuild is planned for this coming winter. Doesn't run bad at all now, but my end goal is to get it streetable and take it to the track and turn 11.anything.

Did you mean a 3,100 stall? Stock was ~2,400. I don't know your future plans. The goal of 11s is possible but is much easier with an aftermarket intercooler. My car was trapping 110mph in street trim with a mild combo a long time ago. Should've easily dipped in the 11s with tires and good gas.

 

[turbo6x2]

For my set up the auto lite 23's work the best. We had nothing but issues from the NGKUR5 plugs. Auto lites are what White racing runs in their set ups. If you are pretty stock I'd say auto lite 24's gapped at about .032. A tighter gap usually works better on these cars. We were even told to go tighter then .032 but my plugs burn really clean at this gap. Just what works best for my set up... These cars all tend to be a bit different depending on the build.