Red Light instead of Green (Razor alky)

[91Bird305]

Everything was working great until I went to do a random test and noticed instead of the green light, I got a red light in it's place (not the low level light). So I got into 6-7lbs when it is suppose to start kicking on and I noticed instead of the green light I would get, I got a red one in its place. So I let off immedialty and haven't gotten back into it. Poped the hood and heard what sounded like gurgling liquid coming from the pump, but couldn't see anything leaking. Now I left my manual at the shop on accident so I can't reference what this means. Am I losing pressure somehow and thats what the light means?

 

[Quiky One]

Eric, My car (1989 TTA) the light does not illuminate green until exactly 10 pounds of boost. When I hit the test button the light illuminates red.

I have the alky start spraying, or more like a dribble, at 4 pounds and the light is still red until 10 pounds. This has yielded me 500 miles of hard street miles and absolutely no knock. I even checked the knock sensor because my interior used to look like a Christmas tree with all the lights.

The light changes color when the system gets full pressure.

Hope this helps and if not Razor can chime in. I have asked him about 163165161 questions about the LED and I'm sure this is somewhat correct.

Jason

 

[91Bird305]

Yeah, I'm a dumbass. I guess it is just the jitters since the car is finally on the road.

 

[dsa87gn]

mine doesnt go green until 15+ pounds.

The settings inside the box are set the way the unit came.
And my blue/gain knob is between 2/3. Closer to 2 actually.

 

[BlackMetal]

I've never paid attention to the color of the light, as long as the Power Injection indicator pops up, it's good.

 

[QUIP'6']

its not going to change to green unless you turn it to 7 or higher. i have mine at 7 and run 25 psi with 24/21 timing when i got do a burnout before staging i hit the test button for 1 to 2 seconds to get it to go red to green then i no for sure its goods to go. give it a try

 

[Quiky One]

its not going to change to green unless you turn it to 7 or higher. i have mine at 7 and run 25 psi with 24/21 timing when i got do a burnout before staging i hit the test button for 1 to 2 seconds to get it to go red to green then i no for sure its goods to go. give it a try

I have mine at 5 and it turns green. All systems are different.

Jason

 

[91Bird305]

Yeah, I noticed it next time I took it out. Quicky One gave me the heads up on AIM. False alarm people. Just a newbie. :lol:

 

[Pronto]

Better safe than sorry. Enjoy the kit!

 

[Razor]

The LED changes colors when the head of the pump pushes the switch up under pressure. Depending where the tension is set on the spring.. will determine at what pressure it moves. Once the switch moves, it makes the LED change from Red to Green. Now understand there are a lot of variables such as battery voltage, where the knobs are set on the controller, length of hoses, temperature, where the allen screw on the switch is set, etc..

Typically if the LED turns red then latter changes to green as the needle on your boost guage is climbing.. all is well.

Dual nozzle kits will activate latter as there is more orfice size. As using a smaller nozzle M10 or smaller will make the LED change instantly.

All the pump we hand build are set identically. What changes are vehicle, electrical, etc.. You shouldnt on a TR need alky until 14-16 PSI.. so if its turning green anytime before that, your assurred it not only activated, but physical pressure is present.

Hope this clarifies.

Julio

 

[QUIP'6']

The LED changes colors when the head of the pump pushes the switch up under pressure. Depending where the tension is set on the spring.. will determine at what pressure it moves. Once the switch moves, it makes the LED change from Red to Green. Now understand there are a lot of variables such as battery voltage, where the knobs are set on the controller, length of hoses, temperature, where the allen screw on the switch is set, etc..

Typically if the LED turns red then latter changes to green as the needle on your boost guage is climbing.. all is well.

Dual nozzle kits will activate latter as there is more orfice size. As using a smaller nozzle M10 or smaller will make the LED change instantly.

All the pump we hand build are set identically. What changes are vehicle, electrical, etc.. You shouldnt on a TR need alky until 14-16 PSI.. so if its turning green anytime before that, your assurred it not only activated, but physical pressure is present.

Hope this clarifies.

Julio

hey julio just want to say again what an awesome kit you have!!!! i just love the idea of high boost racing on pump gas. i am at 25 psi 24/21 and my 02's are 808 :biggrin: THANKS AGAIN SINCERELY BRIAN

 

[Blown&Injected]

The LED changes colors when the head of the pump pushes the switch up under pressure. Depending where the tension is set on the spring.. will determine at what pressure it moves. Once the switch moves, it makes the LED change from Red to Green. Now understand there are a lot of variables such as battery voltage, where the knobs are set on the controller, length of hoses, temperature, where the allen screw on the switch is set, etc..

Typically if the LED turns red then latter changes to green as the needle on your boost guage is climbing.. all is well.

Dual nozzle kits will activate latter as there is more orfice size. As using a smaller nozzle M10 or smaller will make the LED change instantly.

All the pump we hand build are set identically. What changes are vehicle, electrical, etc.. You shouldnt on a TR need alky until 14-16 PSI.. so if its turning green anytime before that, your assurred it not only activated, but physical pressure is present.

Hope this clarifies.

Julio

Julio:
I just finished installing the kit you recently sent me and I do not have the instructions with me right now so not sure how to proceed.

I went to 20 PSI and still no green. The Power Injection light glows brighter but no switch over from red to green.

Wondering.... if the screw on the pump just lowers the pressure turn on point...seems like that will not indicate full pump pressure but just lower the threshold for the red/green switch???

 

[Grumpy]

Julio:
I just finished installing the kit you recently sent me and I do not have the instructions with me right now so not sure how to proceed.

I went to 20 PSI and still no green. The Power Injection light glows brighter but no switch over from red to green.

Wondering.... if the screw on the pump just lowers the pressure turn on point...seems like that will not indicate full pump pressure but just lower the threshold for the red/green switch???

LEAVE THE PUMP ALONE YOU NEED YOUR DIRECTIONS AND "READ" THEM !!!

 

[Razor]

If you've lost your instructions, email me at idoxlr8_70@yahoo.com

Or call during the week

 

[Blown&Injected]

Dude!
I feel bad enough asking on a holiday weekend - and your workin' on Sunday!

I have the directions just not with me right now (still 20 PSI and no knock with denatured )

Just thought another member might know just what to do...BRB

 

[91Bird305]

Since this got bumped, I just wanted to ask Julio (or anyone else) is 11.5 A/F fine?

 

[SouthernCal GN]

That's a bit lean.....you should shoot for 10.5-10.7 (under boost, alky spraying) then tune in small increments to see how your car responds.

Some like it leaner, but most I've played with like the mid/high 10.x range when on alky.

 

[callmeebryan]

That's a bit lean.....you should shoot for 10.5-10.7 (under boost, alky spraying) then tune in small increments to see how your car responds.

Some like it leaner, but most I've played with like the mid/high 10.x range when on alky.

Interesting... i guess it depends on the tuner and the car... my car likes around 11.7 AFR on alky with lots of boost , as well as a few other ones i've been around... +/- .2 AFR

 

[Blown&Injected]

OK, got my hands on the directions and it was as I thought I read.

No way to know if the pump is going full power or even getting full power by the light going from red to green. Directions just say to change the turn-on point for the red/green switchover.

Sounds like changing the screw on the pump could just lower the threshold of the switch to whatever the pump is producing - even if it is just low pressure. I will have to get to the power distribution and measure the voltage to see if it is really ramping up.

Might just crank the Gain knob way up and see it that might satisfy the switch - I know that is not a proper tuning technique but I do wonder how much the pump really is doing. Do not want to mess with the factory settings right off without understanding what is actually going on.

I believe what is bothering me is that while I notice the Power Injection Bulb glowing brighter as the boost comes up, it does not change that much and That is making me think the pump is not ramping up enough to make the red/green switch.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Interesting... i guess it depends on the tuner and the car... my car likes around 11.7 AFR on alky with lots of boost , as well as a few other ones i've been around... +/- .2 AFR

my point exactly!