Red Light instead of Green (Razor alky)

[Razor]

OK, got my hands on the directions and it was as I thought I read.

No way to know if the pump is going full power or even getting full power by the light going from red to green. Directions just say to change the turn-on point for the red/green switchover.

Sounds like changing the screw on the pump could just lower the threshold of the switch to whatever the pump is producing - even if it is just low pressure. I will have to get to the power distribution and measure the voltage to see if it is really ramping up.

Might just crank the Gain knob way up and see it that might satisfy the switch - I know that is not a proper tuning technique but I do wonder how much the pump really is doing. Do not want to mess with the factory settings right off without understanding what is actually going on.

I believe what is bothering me is that while I notice the Power Injection Bulb glowing brighter as the boost comes up, it does not change that much and That is making me think the pump is not ramping up enough to make the red/green switch.

Please read my post again, if it is not clear... Please pick up your phone and call me.. Cheers..

Quote...

"The LED changes colors when the head of the pump pushes the switch up under pressure. Depending where the tension is set on the spring.. will determine at what pressure it moves. Once the switch moves, it makes the LED change from Red to Green. Now understand there are a lot of variables such as battery voltage, where the knobs are set on the controller, length of hoses, temperature, where the allen screw on the switch is set, etc..

Typically if the LED turns red then latter changes to green as the needle on your boost guage is climbing.. all is well.

Dual nozzle kits will activate latter as there is more orfice size. As using a smaller nozzle M10 or smaller will make the LED change instantly."

 

[Razor]

Interesting... i guess it depends on the tuner and the car... my car likes around 11.7 AFR on alky with lots of boost , as well as a few other ones i've been around... +/- .2 AFR

Every car is different, you always have tuning options when tuning a car. If you start tuning lean, you run the risk of burning a hole through a piston. Alky or not.

You start rich and work your way lean. I have seen wayyyy tooo many fast cars running pump gas+methanol injection tuned to lower 10's for air fuel.

There was a video here of a 291 CI V6 that made 1076 FWHP on 91 octane.. it was tuned at 10:1. My buddy Richie has run 9.5@142 on a 109 block Buick at 10.3:1 AFR.

So if you want to tune at 11.7.. be careful. And be certain your wideband is reading correctly. I too have seen differences between one WB sensor and another.. with variances up to 1 point. A month ago I went to help someone tune a turbo'd Honda with an AEM. The AEM computer showed one AFR, the guys AEM guage showed another.. and both of these were tied into the same sensor.. and the NTK WB sensor in the tailpipe showed a different AFR. There was a variance of 1 point between all three of them. So the tuning was done based on HP and knock readings.

Hope this helps. Careful with what data is entrusted.

 

[91Bird305]

Thanks for the info Julio.

 

[Razor]

No problem.. my pleasure..

Cheers