Remote trunk release turns on the fans...

Check your battery voltage when this occurs, and if you are still using the factory fan delay relay get rid of it.

Sounds like what they added causes a spike into the fan delay relay triggering it, once.

Not the only thing that can make the fans run when they shouldn't through that relay.

A spike occurs on the whole electrical system when an inductive coil, such as in the window motors, trunk release solenoid, sunroof motor, power seats etc. is operated.

A weak battery or lower voltage will increase the effect.

If you really want to try some harder tests, which I doubt since you didn't try any simple voltage tests yet, you can.

1. Voltage check when the problem occurs at the battery.

2. Charge the battery fully and try it all again.

3. Remove the viper wire that operates the trunk and try the trunk release as factory wired with the delay relay.

4. Another test would be with the factory wiring NO viper alarm wire and a diode accross the switch, 1N4004 type, banded end of the diode to the brown wire on the connector, unbanded end to the black wire. Key on normal trunk release operation.

Obviously the simplest thing and perhaps the smartest thing to do is to remove the problematic fan delay relay.
 
An easy way to solve inductive kickback is with a zener or reverse biased rectifier. Get either an approx. 25 volt 1-watt zener or a 1N4001 and wire it so that the banded end is conected to the trunk release wire and the other end is connected to ground. Best if mounted close to the trunk solenoid.
 
Remove the fan delay relay permanently. You don't need it and without it, seems as though everything's working normally.
Thanks for the tip. This may explain why my almost new battery drains so quickly. I've noticed my fan will sometimes come on by just turning the ignition key to "on" and the engine is cold. When the car was just about a year old, this same relay caused my fan to stay on, nearly draining my battery. It was very cold outside and the fan had been running at least an hour before I noticed. Glad to know I can do without it.

This is my first post. I have been reading posts for a while and I've already learned a lot. This is a great site with a lot of good people willing to help their fellow Buick owners. Thanks everyone !!
 
sounds like the relay they used for the alarms' trunk release is injecting voltage into the trunk release solenoid side of the circuit.this could be caused by a faulty relay,other circuit tied to the relays power in circuit,or relay wired incorrectly.

theres a couple of ways to wire an universal relay to work the trunk release solenoid,but heres how i do it to prevent feed back voltage like what you're experiencing.

terminal 30 should show battery + voltage.(input)

term 87 should go to the trunk release solenoid side of the circuit.(output)

term 85 or 86 should show + battery voltage as well (this is relay control side,does not matter which is used + or -)

term 85 or 86 should be negative voltage when you push the trunk release (or whatever button or sequence of buttons used for this channel).usually Grey wire out of alarm.

term 87a will be UNUSED in this application.
 
An easy way to solve inductive kickback is with a zener or reverse biased rectifier. Get either an approx. 25 volt 1-watt zener or a 1N4001 and wire it so that the banded end is conected to the trunk release wire and the other end is connected to ground. Best if mounted close to the trunk solenoid.

I believe that's what Fred, from Fred's Turbo performance did to rectify the problem.
 
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