Remove oil lines

[jim0207]

OAD

Lol, will these rims fit? How much does a rebuild cost? How much boost can I run on 93 octane? Who makes the best headers? Anyone tried a five speed conversion? Etc.

OAD

 

[jim0207]

This is why we ask.

Thank You

 

[Nick Micale]

Can't believe there are still threads about this. It's been said time and time again that the cooling adapter is not needed and in fact advised against in the case of an engine rebuild..............................

Like many discussions here on the board, comments, opinions and "what I have done" may be somewhat enlightening, but in specific tech areas and giving advise like here, it should be based upon some facts and real-world data?

Since the factory GN's had to meet emission standards, there are many items we do not need or use on our cars, but the original underhood temps of a stock GN was at the acceptable limit for normal driving conditions.

When we increase HP, this generates even more heat, but we also compensate by better cooling and other items.

The concern should be oil temperature which needs to be in an acceptable range, not too cold or too hot.

A "garage queen" GN that is occasionally driven will live just fine with or w/o an oil cooler, but in other situations, the needs and results are different.

A modified GN may have a larger oil filter, oil pan, radiator, different fans and other items affecting underhood and oil temps.

In a race car, especially when it is trailered, it is necessary to have the oil at operating temp before it is run at max HP, and that is easy to verify with an oil temp gauge.

When using e-85, the engine will run much cooler than gas, and it will take much longer to reach operating temp. I prefer to NOT use the oil cooler on my street e-85 car as it also has a deep pan holding more oil and a massive fan/alum radiator combination

At the track, I have seen more engine damage from oil being too cold, rather than too hot.

The decision to run a stock cooler or not should be based upon the individual GN depending on use and mods to the car, but this is only my opinion!

 

[robzombie]

Like many discussions here on the board, comments, opinions and "what I have done" may be somewhat enlightening, but in specific tech areas and giving advise like here, it should be based upon some facts and real-world data?

Since the factory GN's had to meet emission standards, there are many items we do not need or use on our cars, but the original underhood temps of a stock GN was at the acceptable limit for normal driving conditions.

When we increase HP, this generates even more heat, but we also compensate by better cooling and other items.

The concern should be oil temperature which needs to be in an acceptable range, not too cold or too hot.

A "garage queen" GN that is occasionally driven will live just fine with or w/o an oil cooler, but in other situations, the needs and results are different.

A modified GN may have a larger oil filter, oil pan, radiator, different fans and other items affecting underhood and oil temps.

In a race car, especially when it is trailered, it is necessary to have the oil at operating temp before it is run at max HP, and that is easy to verify with an oil temp gauge.

When using e-85, the engine will run much cooler than gas, and it will take much longer to reach operating temp. I prefer to NOT use the oil cooler on my street e-85 car as it also has a deep pan holding more oil and a massive fan/alum radiator combination

At the track, I have seen more engine damage from oil being too cold, rather than too hot.

The decision to run a stock cooler or not should be based upon the individual GN depending on use and mods to the car, but this is only my opinion!

X2.

Some may not want/need an oil cooler but to make a general statement that it is/isn't needed only puts out disinformation.

I for one NEED an oil cooler because of the region I live and the way I drive the car.

After I run hard a few times or when I drive in 100* heat with the AC on an oil cooler is detrimental in bringing oil temps back down or keeping them in a safe range.

When I see oil pressure drop 5lbs. after a few hard runs and recover to normal in minutes I know that the cooler is doing it's job of removing excess heat [not magic] which in turn helps with not only oil longevity but the engine as well.

When you stage a turbo car you put a lot of heat in all the fluids, oil,trans and coolant. I've seen 10*/15* increase in coolant temps in just a few seconds staging on the line.

I also run an external trans cooler along with the rad cooler with a fan that is tied into the T-stat so that the oil stays warm enough but will also stay cooler when putting a chit load of heat into it during high boost launches.

Oil coolers in the rad also help warm the oil which is also detrimental to keeping the oil and engine in good health. If the oil is to hot it breaks down faster. to cold and the fuel and condensation won't burn off.


To each his own according to their needs but enough of the BS blanket statements unless they are relevant.
I've seen/built enough engines in my day to know that a engine with consistent temps that are kept in range will last longer and perform better while requiring less maintenance and fluid changes.

These are just my observations and will ignore the naysayers who have been lucky enough to get by without them or have very different circumstances than I do.