replacement seals for Throttle body shaft.

wiked87gn

Banned
Joined
May 25, 2001
I found a great source for these seals, most turbo buicks need these seals replaced by now, they cake and crack over time leading to leaks you cant detect but hear them, these two seals sit on each side of the throttle body shaft, and are about the size of a dime, GM wont sell you these seals alone, they want to sell you the whole Throttle body which cost about an arm and a leg from them i found a great source for these seals, and trust me guys they need to be replaced if your car has more than 30k miles on it, the seal model and size are as follow, all metric size.

10x17x5B, the B at the end is the model of the seal if dont mention it you will get the wrong ones, you can get them from this supplier which is located in VA.

http://www.harwal.com

Harwal Inc.
P O Box 363
72 Industrial Lane
Barre, VT 05641
Phone: (802)223-0197.

just thought i share with everyone.

they run about $7.00 dollars each and there is no need to do mickey mouse work with these they are correct size and perfect fit.
 
thanx for the info...need more people doing stuff like this !!
Seems that when someone does there is no replies of thanx, cool, etc.

Atta boy
 
Good One!
I have turbo 350/700r4 speedometer seals in mine now-work damn good. But am glad to know about proper part.
Thanks
 
1st- thanks. 2nd- if these seals are bad, could they cause a tip in hesitation? i can hear a slight whistle when opening the throttle slightly. thanks in advance.
 
Do you need to specify the material or does the "B" take care of style and material?

Thanks
 
Thank for the info!!!

But I think the part # is backwards since the web site states the part # reads like this:

I.D. / O.D. /Width / Type

You can not have a larger ID then OD.
Please swap the first 2 #'s around.

10-17-05B


Thanks again this is a great find.
 
yes mike you are right those are the correct numbers u gave.

guys the part i gave you takes care of the whole deal, they dont have the seals listed on thier website but if you ask for 10x17x5B it takes care of the whole thing, the seals are metal outside rubber inside with the loaded stainless steel spring just like the stock one that is on the car now, trust me i have these seals on my hands and they are the same thing that is on their now, and yes if you car hear a whistle they need to be replaced, my engine has only 40k and when i took the TB apart this seals where gone, they just felt apart the only thing holding them in place was the spring and shaft , these seals are the right part for the job, btw B is the lip style of the seal, the material is MBR whatever that means all i can say is i got them right here and i am looking at them they are the exact same thing that is inside the stock TB, you cant go wrong with these seals.
 
It's been my experience that about 10-15% of the TBs out there REALLY need new seals (350+ sampling). Those are just the ones that are cracked or falling apart, that doesn't mean there isn't wear after all these years! Several high mileage units I have seen are just fine. Hard to gauge wear, though, unless you can see the problems.

BTW, I've had new seals in stock for a while that are made to OEM specs by the original GM supplier. I don't know if my source wants me to reveal his name or not, because he didn't purchase them to turn around and sell them at retail. Let's just say he is one of my competitors! ;)
 
Sorry... still not in a position to do so at this time. I'll let you know if I can in the future. Sucks, 'cause I really need the $$$! (check sig for new toy!)
 
How hard is it to change these seals?Can anyone give some basic instructions?Thanks
 
take off all link of TB, take off up pipe, take off aic and tps links, tps must come off, undo 2 bolts holding tb in place also take off the 2 bolts holding vacumm block on top of TB, then remove the TB all out, remove nut on TB linkage, pretty simple to do takes about 30 minutes and just put back together, you also have to take off the TB plate inside the TB to remove the shaft and expose the seals, then pry the seals off and replace with new ones making sure you use grease on seals (Orings grease), it is really no science do this job, just make sure you set tps back to the way it was. simple really :)
 
Yep... very straightforward. Just pay attention to how you disassemble everything so that it goes back together correctly--can be easy to forget how the return spring wraps around the shaft once it's apart. Clean the area behind the stock seals thoroughly once they are removed.

When driving the new seals in be sure you keep them straight! If you get it going crooked, you'll be buying another one! They only need to go in to just below flush with the housing, too.

Jay
 
Wiked87gn

Thanks for the info, I've needed to replace these for a while.

According the the specs for the 10 x 17 x 05B its only rated for 5 psi. I tried looking for the ADL-P which is a high pressure seal in this size but its not listed. Did you talk to Rob when you ordered them and tell him what they were for ? I just wanted to ask you before I got mine.
 
hey i called and talked to HARWAL today. the ONLY thing they have in the size given is in NITRILE and yes it has the metal thing wiked was referring to but they said they will not work due to NITRILE only being good to 5-8 psi. i say try these at your own risk. and yes i did ask about VITON, TEFLON, AND ADL AND ADL-P.
 
shaft sits in the bore with minimal clearance, when the throttle body see's boost the throttle blade is open, air flows the path of least resistence- should be ok. my only concern would be closing throttle AFTER wot run- air is trapped between tb and intercooler with no where to go.
 
the stock ones that come in the car are actually rated only at 5psi these seals dont see or hardly see any boost because of the clearance from the TB shaft, the problem is they get dried up and crack over time leading to air being sucked in thus causing higher BLms or a dreaded ugly whistle at part throtle.
 
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