Replacing my head gasket for the first time.e

DeltaBravo

Retired U.S. Army/Navy
I just want to make sure the following list is complete and I am not missing any parts prior to replacing head gaskets.

16 point ARP bolts
head gasket kit (Victor Reins)
Intake manifold gasket kit
Thread sealant
Exhaust manifold gasket kit

I will be doing this while the engine is still installed in the car and I do not plan on "decking" or sending the head off to a machine shop.

Thanks,
 
Youll need valve cover gaskets as well. Consider studs vs bolts and you need some sealer like "the right stuff" rtv to seal the china rail to intake corners. Also brake clean, acetone and clean lint free cloths to wipe down the mating surfaces. Also i think its a mistake to not get the heads milled true as they distort a few thou just from being torqued down. Alot of f'ing around to skip that step.
 
turbo hot side gasket, turbo oil return gasket. I just cleaned up my heads and stuck them back on, engine oil, antifreeze (common stuff). cant think of any more, I just did mine last month :) and my powermaster took a dump couple of weeks ago :punch:
 
Youll need valve cover gaskets as well. Consider studs vs bolts and you need some sealer like "the right stuff" rtv to seal the china rail to intake corners. Also brake clean, acetone and clean lint free cloths to wipe down the mating surfaces. Also i think its a mistake to not get the heads milled true as they distort a few thou just from being torqued down. Alot of f'ing around to skip that step.

yup, valve cover gasket kit will be in the order as well as brake clean and cloths. As far the the bolts vs studs topic...Because I am doing this with the engine in the car and I have the A/C heater box still installed, I am under the impression I can't do studs because I will not be able clear the heads over them on the passenger side. But the final reason is because I already have a "bolt" style set.
 
Youll need valve cover gaskets as well. Consider studs vs bolts and you need some sealer like "the right stuff" rtv to seal the china rail to intake corners. Also brake clean, acetone and clean lint free cloths to wipe down the mating surfaces. Also i think its a mistake to not get the heads milled true as they distort a few thou just from being torqued down. Alot of f'ing around to skip that step.

yup, valve cover gasket kit will be in the order as well as brake clean and cloths. As far the the bolts vs studs topic...Because I am doing this with the engine in the car and I have the A/C heater box still installed, I am under the impression I can't do studs because I will not be able clear the heads over them on the passenger side. But the final reason is because I already have a "bolt" style set.
 
Youll need valve cover gaskets as well. Consider studs vs bolts and you need some sealer like "the right stuff" rtv to seal the china rail to intake corners. Also brake clean, acetone and clean lint free cloths to wipe down the mating surfaces. Also i think its a mistake to not get the heads milled true as they distort a few thou just from being torqued down. Alot of f'ing around to skip that step.

yup, valve cover gasket kit will be in the order as well as brake clean and cloths. As far the the bolts vs studs topic...Because I am doing this with the engine in the car and I have the A/C heater box still installed, I am under the impression I can't do studs because I will not be able clear the heads over them on the passenger side. But the final reason is because I already have a "bolt" style set.


turbo hot side gasket, turbo oil return gasket. I just cleaned up my heads and stuck them back on, engine oil, antifreeze (common stuff). cant think of any more, I just did mine last month :) and my powermaster took a dump couple of weeks ago :punch:

ok, I like it! I will add the turbo gasket and oil line return gasket. No Antifreeze for me...just distilled water and RMI25. Oil is definitely on the list with an oil filter.

Thanks guys
 
I did studs with the engine in my car, I pulled the shield off and put only a couple in and wiggled the head on and installed the rest of them. Wrench on!
 
there is no hot side turbo gasket. Just make sure the surfaces are flat and use a skim coat of RTV. personally I'd pull the PS header and leave the turbo bolted to it. Why create work when you don't have to.


Speaking of that are you 100% sure you HAVE to R&R the head gaskets? If you haven't 100% verified you have to replace them, you're about to open up a Pandora's box.

Not to mention, if the heads are off it's the PERFECT time to check the valve job and bowl port them.
 
Pulled heads a couple of days ago, as well as the oil pan. Take a look. I will start the assembly today.
 

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turbo hot side gasket, turbo oil return gasket. I just cleaned up my heads and stuck them back on, engine oil, antifreeze (common stuff). cant think of any more, I just did mine last month :) and my powermaster took a dump couple of weeks ago :punch:

Where can I get the turbo oil return gasket?
 
Just some updates...Got the heads, intake and exhaust installed. Now I will need to flush out the rest of the oiling system.
 

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Hi!

I would like to bring back this old thread. In hopes to show the world how much of a dumb@ss I am and to get some advise as well.

Since doing the head gasket replacement/APR bolts and flushing and cleaning and reassembly....She ran even worse than before. With my tail between my legs and my head hanging low in defeat, I assumed I would need to have the motor rebuilt. I parked her in the garage until I could find the time and money to tackle this endeavor.

Well...today was the day. I decided to start tearing the motor down one piece at a time to "find" the reason/s it ran so much shittier after new head gasket.

After removing the intake, this is what I found. It correlates to my number 6 cylinder having low compression and explains why it was leaking through the exhaust during my leak down test. The rod is not centered on the lifter...never allowing the exhaust valve to close.
IMG_3046.jpg


I guess I didn't realized it wasn't centered when I assembled the rockers back on. At least I hope that's what happened...

Can you think of any other possibilities that would cause this? The rod is straight. The lifter seems good. The bolts holding the rocker assembly where still torqued.

Thanks
D
 
I'm amazed it didn't find it's happy place after you started the car.


How much run time did it see off to the side like that?


also, inspect the end of that pushrod CLOSELY to see if it's still spherical. I'm guessing there has to be a booger (highly technical engineering term) somewhere on the edge of the oil hole to hold it there.


also, while you have the intake off, pull each lifter one at a time and make sure they have convex bottoms with some plate glass.
 
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