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Gotcha. Post read like it wasn’t installed yet.
Retard Degrees question
- Thread starter BFlat
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You're doing the right things. I'm a stickler for getting the TPS slightly higher under WOT. I always shoot for minimum of 4.6v WOT, but not every TPS and throttle body is the same. There's tricks to modifying the dog ears with a needle file to help fine tune WOT TPS voltage, but 4.36v unde WOT is getting it done.
One more question. Is your v5.7 TT chip burned for the new injectors you haven't installed yet? Or is it burned for the stock injectors. That's a critical piece of info we all need to know.
However, that 5.6* knock retard is no buenno for even 93 pump gas. Too much more of that and poof goes a head gasket/gaskets between 3 & 5, or out the back end of the gasket. I'm suspecting your pump and injectors are quickly leaving the team. If you have a Scanmaster, you need to add fuel under WOT asap, until you get the injectors and matching chip installed. With a mix of 91 and 93 in the tank, you'll be lucky to maintain a 91 -92 mix ratio. You also need to find out what the timing is that's burned on the chip for each gear. And you might need to take a degree or two out of timing under WOT to get the KR back under control.
On a setup like this with questionable blended gas, I would be shooting for .820 - .800 O2 Mv under WOT at the top of 3rd gear and less than 2.0 degress of KR, that no doubt will show up between shifts. On a stock engine and trans combo, especially if it has a stock D5 12" converter, the highest load the engine will see is just before the shift. And that is typically where you will see shift knock, which is bad.
You need to get an RJC Racing ADPP power plate on that car asap, to help evenly distribute air flow to all 6 cylinders. This is critical with OEM stock 37-38 year old injectors and unknown fuel pump. The factory unmodified intake and stock upper plenum are known to lean the back two cylinders out, even on a bone stock car with low boost. This is where the ADPP comes into play. It helps equally distribute airflow to all 6 cylinders. With that amount of detonation, think of it like this. Every time you got WOT right now, your car is seeing detonation. And over time, it will have an drastic affect on your head gaskets. If I were you... I would immediately add at least 10% fuel under WOT with the TT chip and a Scanmaster.
And buy an ADPP power plate and install it asap. Jason has different plates for different upper plenums, but if your's is bone stock, you need the one for the stock upper plenum asap.
rjcracing.com
Next would be to immediately install those new injectors and matching chip. Then drop the tank and R&R the fuel pump. All of the Buick vendors stock the basic Walbro 340 255lph pump and hot wire kit that will work just fine for you combo for a long time.
That's the bare minimum to keep your engine safe. Not too mention, I pray someone has told you about how important it is to run ZDDPlus oil additive, or at least an additive that spikes the zinc/phosphorus PPM content in your oil right now. You must protect the cam, lifters, bearings in the turbo and engine bearings immediately.
zddplus.com
But, if you can't afford anymore upgrades right now, (trust me, we've all been there) then add WOT fuel with your chip, and do your best to keep your foot out of boost, unless you have better octane fuel and the knock retard is at 0.0* under WOT.
Because if you keep having knock retard over 3.0* under WOT on pump gas much longer, you will blow a head gasket/gaskets.
Pro Tip: On the Scanmaster, after you make a WOT blast, pull over and stop. Don't turn the car off. Press and hold the recall button for your O2 Mv and degrees of Knock Retard readings. Now, while holding the Recall button push the Mode button and it will tell you the MPH that those two readings happened. You can use this data to help determine if it's false knock, or knock between shifts. And always remember, your readings will change drastically when the ambient temps drop 15* - 20*.
In other words, 5.6* KR when it's 85* outside, might very well become 10.0* when it's 60* outside. So pay attention to KR under WOT. Keep a note pad in the car with the TurboTweak chip instructions with a pen and write down all your readings, what the boost was at, what fuel, what the ambient temps were and time of day. This record keeping will go a very long way in helping you learn how to tune your car now and in the future.
Hope some of this helps.
- Patrick
One more question. Is your v5.7 TT chip burned for the new injectors you haven't installed yet? Or is it burned for the stock injectors. That's a critical piece of info we all need to know.
However, that 5.6* knock retard is no buenno for even 93 pump gas. Too much more of that and poof goes a head gasket/gaskets between 3 & 5, or out the back end of the gasket. I'm suspecting your pump and injectors are quickly leaving the team. If you have a Scanmaster, you need to add fuel under WOT asap, until you get the injectors and matching chip installed. With a mix of 91 and 93 in the tank, you'll be lucky to maintain a 91 -92 mix ratio. You also need to find out what the timing is that's burned on the chip for each gear. And you might need to take a degree or two out of timing under WOT to get the KR back under control.
On a setup like this with questionable blended gas, I would be shooting for .820 - .800 O2 Mv under WOT at the top of 3rd gear and less than 2.0 degress of KR, that no doubt will show up between shifts. On a stock engine and trans combo, especially if it has a stock D5 12" converter, the highest load the engine will see is just before the shift. And that is typically where you will see shift knock, which is bad.
You need to get an RJC Racing ADPP power plate on that car asap, to help evenly distribute air flow to all 6 cylinders. This is critical with OEM stock 37-38 year old injectors and unknown fuel pump. The factory unmodified intake and stock upper plenum are known to lean the back two cylinders out, even on a bone stock car with low boost. This is where the ADPP comes into play. It helps equally distribute airflow to all 6 cylinders. With that amount of detonation, think of it like this. Every time you got WOT right now, your car is seeing detonation. And over time, it will have an drastic affect on your head gaskets. If I were you... I would immediately add at least 10% fuel under WOT with the TT chip and a Scanmaster.
And buy an ADPP power plate and install it asap. Jason has different plates for different upper plenums, but if your's is bone stock, you need the one for the stock upper plenum asap.
A.D. Power Plate
Next would be to immediately install those new injectors and matching chip. Then drop the tank and R&R the fuel pump. All of the Buick vendors stock the basic Walbro 340 255lph pump and hot wire kit that will work just fine for you combo for a long time.
That's the bare minimum to keep your engine safe. Not too mention, I pray someone has told you about how important it is to run ZDDPlus oil additive, or at least an additive that spikes the zinc/phosphorus PPM content in your oil right now. You must protect the cam, lifters, bearings in the turbo and engine bearings immediately.
How ZDDP Plus Oil Additive & Cam Assembly Lube Works - ZDDP Plus
How ZDD Plus Oil Additive and Cam Assembly Lube can help your car, truck, and other vehicles perform to their best ability. Order now online!
zddplus.com
But, if you can't afford anymore upgrades right now, (trust me, we've all been there) then add WOT fuel with your chip, and do your best to keep your foot out of boost, unless you have better octane fuel and the knock retard is at 0.0* under WOT.
Because if you keep having knock retard over 3.0* under WOT on pump gas much longer, you will blow a head gasket/gaskets.
Pro Tip: On the Scanmaster, after you make a WOT blast, pull over and stop. Don't turn the car off. Press and hold the recall button for your O2 Mv and degrees of Knock Retard readings. Now, while holding the Recall button push the Mode button and it will tell you the MPH that those two readings happened. You can use this data to help determine if it's false knock, or knock between shifts. And always remember, your readings will change drastically when the ambient temps drop 15* - 20*.
In other words, 5.6* KR when it's 85* outside, might very well become 10.0* when it's 60* outside. So pay attention to KR under WOT. Keep a note pad in the car with the TurboTweak chip instructions with a pen and write down all your readings, what the boost was at, what fuel, what the ambient temps were and time of day. This record keeping will go a very long way in helping you learn how to tune your car now and in the future.
Hope some of this helps.
- Patrick
Last edited:
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
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02's are 789 are okay...but I'm betting the old injectors are fukd. As one of the other gents said...park it till the new injectors and matching chip are installed. I have vids on how to change head gaskets if you don't wanna wait.
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- May 28, 2001
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And........... Learn to read plugs if you don't already know.
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Hate to tell you there are no "magic bullets". If you're going to get into moderate amounts of boost everything needs to be dead nuts on.
You need to know what your car likes, tune needs to be on, & everything else supporting it needs to be up to snuff. These cars can be very finicky & do not tolerate shortcuts. They can be reliable, & fun, however they take a good ton of effort to keep them there.
Note: Also take all of the advise from the above posts.
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