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Rethinking my hr motor mounts.

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BuickMike

Money pit
Joined
Jun 7, 2001
Messages
2,792
Ever since I put my car back together I have been annoyed with how much vibration and resonance transmits through the car. All the engine vibration makes me paranoid, yet the motor has been running great for 2k miles now. It completely cancels out the bass from my subs, and they can get loud with the motor off.

I'm pretty sure a lot of this stems from my hr motor mounts. Since this is 99% a street car, should I put the oem's back in and use a tie down strap again?
 
Yes, put the stockers back in. I was doing some testing and decided to weld up the stockers making them solid but the small vibration drove me nuts so I cut the welds back off. Much Better. I want to try the RJC motor brace that bolts near the bellhousing and see if works but I need to know exactly how it bolts up so I'll post a question and hope I can get some feedback.

ks
 
I have the HR motor mounts in my car and a while back I was getting false knock and thought they might be the cause. Turned out it was a loose knock sensor. Mine don't seem to give me any vibration but then again I've never been in a TB with stock motor mounts. Mine are 10 years old with 3000 miles on them. I do however once in a while at cruising speed get a weird harmonic type noise, I wonder if it could be the HR's?
 
I have HR mounts and have no issues like you mention.

Trace exhaust. If it's touching the body anywhere you will feel it. That would be better culprit.
 
I'll check out the exhaust. I need to ride in someone's car with regular mounts and see the difference. The vibration / resonance is not bad if you put it into perspective that this is an old musclecar, but my biggest beef is that it drowns out my subs and makes my stereo pointless. I bought my mounts used and I believe they are the older ones. The bushings are red on mine and hard as a rock.
 
I also have poly body bushings which add to the equasion. I'm thinking that the guys saying that the poly motor mounts don't make a big difference have rubber body bushings. Those will absorb some of that vibration / noise.
 
From their website:
NEW UPDATE 6/6/2005!
We now have an even softer Polyurethane for our custom Motor Mounts! It is tough enough to withstand low 10 to high 9 second passes on the strip year after year, yet still flex just enough to keep vibrations to a minimum and NOT set off the knock sensors. We are using these newest "soft 70" Poly Bushings in all of the Production 3.8 G-Body mounts (Turbo Regals) and in the Production 3.8 motors in the '89 Turbo Trans Ams (TTA's).
The TTA's previously had a bit too much vibration transferred to the chassis on some cars. These softer bushings should reduce vibrations felt in the car to a much more acceptable level on ALL cars. If any TTA owners are looking for replacement mounts for more of a bone-stock (lower HP) application, PLEASE just let us know when ordering. We can set the frame pads and/or mounts up specially for different HP levels to keep vibrations on each specific car to a minimum. The TTA's have NO body bushings like the G-body's (Turbo Regals) do, so they are more susceptible to transfer every little vibration right into the chassis. Since we came out with these mounts, we have strived to make them work as best as possible, even though the qty level they sell at doesn't really warrant the time/expense. Just one more way we strive for 100% customer appreciation! These new versions should put any previous concerns of vibrations to rest for new customers. We are looking into offering rebuild kits as well, but probably easier to sell existing mounts to someone racing more, and then just get a new set for street/strip use.
Our Stg II Mounts (for 3.8/4.1 Prod & Stg I & II) in G-body chassis are now assembled with our "old" soft version 80 duro Poly bushings for most applications. These seem fine down to high 8's and plenty of daily driving. For faster cars that race more, we can put them together with a "medium" 88 duro to handle more power or 7 sec passes year after year. Just let us know your power/performance level when ordering, and we will be glad to custom tailor a set for you at NO additional cost. All mounts from approx mid 2003 & on should have their durometer rating (70, 80, 88, 93) written on them.
So, to recap all the "poly stiffness" issue:

70 Durometer = currently softest available, daily drivers down to approx low 10's, black in color. Not available before June of 2005, currently in all standard production 3.8 mounts (# 0101, 0102, 0103, 2000).

80 Durometer = Was considered "soft" from mid 2003 to mid 2005, red in color. Good for Heavy Duty versions of prod 3.8 mounts (# 0101-HD) and currently all standard Stg Mounts (# 0104).

88 Durometer = Briefly considered "soft" in early 2003, early ones were black in color (only a small group). Most of them (and currently) are red in color. They were later considered "Mediums" when the 80 duro came out. These are used very seldom now in extreme duty Stg Mounts (# 0104-HD) that are more race-only setups down to the 7's. They also work fine on daily drivers in the 9's and 10's, but may be a little more harsh feeling. Still better than the first ones made.

93 Durometer = Original bushing that came in all mounts, black was only color available. Basically as softer versions were obtained (took many months & lots of $$$), they were only used on the Stg mounts or faster cars. Sometimes only used on Drivers side, and the softer 88's were used on the Pass side. Completely phased out by Sept 2004 and no longer needed at any performance level. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the older mounts/bushings other than they were a little too "heavy duty" for some people.
 
Yes, put the stockers back in. I was doing some testing and decided to weld up the stockers making them solid but the small vibration drove me nuts so I cut the welds back off. Much Better. I want to try the RJC motor brace that bolts near the bellhousing and see if works but I need to know exactly how it bolts up so I'll post a question and hope I can get some feedback.

ks

I have the RJC brace. Two bolts on the bell housing. Very easy to install. And it works well
 
Well now I know. I'll call HR and see how much the softer bushings are. I really think now that my poly body mounts are the bigger part of the problem, however my chassis is so awesome now that there is no way I'm going back to rubber there. Since I really don't drag this car, the motor mounts are much more of a nicety than a necessity. If ditching those band-aids the problem I will be happy with the compromise.
 
Does it actually use the bell housing bolts or is there an extra hole on the block?

No it comes with two longer bolts that replace two in the bell housing. Really is a great idea, I don't know why this wasn't done a long time ago. Very simple, but works well
 
THNX!
My biggest concern is if it used the extra bolt hole in the block b/c this hole in mine is not tapped through very cleanly.

ks
 
I installed a pair of HR mounts not too long ago and haven't seen any real noticible increase in vibrations. I can see the combination of those mounts and poly body bushings shaking things a bit though.
 
Ya, the combination of all those hard mounts can increase vibrations.. I've got the HR mounts on both sides of the motor, poly body bushings, and poly bushing in all of the suspension mounting points!
 
Ya, the combination of all those hard mounts can increase vibrations.. I've got the HR mounts on both sides of the motor, poly body bushings, and poly bushing in all of the suspension mounting points!

I'm in the same boat. The drivetrain resonance / vibration is creepy at first. It had me pretty worried when I first dropped in my motor. I eventually got used to it, but now it bothers me again since it is drowning out any low frequencies from my stereo. I sound deadened the hell out of this car too! This is not road noise either. It drowns my subs quite a bit at idle too. I'll work on some kind of compromise.
 
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