Reusing balancer bolt ?

[1984 t-type]

Can I reuse the stock balancer bolt or is it TTY ?

Thanks !

 

[mtocrs1]

You can reuse it. I can't remember the torque spec but it's up there


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[Turbo6inKY]

You can reuse it. I can't remember the torque spec but it's up there


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It's reusable. 219 ft-lbs factory. You may or may not be able to put that much on it. Put thread sealant on it or it'll leak oil from the crank galley.

 

[earlbrown]

Sealant between the hub and the crank snout since it's not a press fit. The threaded portion of the snout doesn't hit pressurized oil.

Note: I've never put sealant on mine and it doesn't leak. My PCV works and I have minimal blowby though.

 

[MCH86GN]

It's reusable. 219 ft-lbs factory. You may or may not be able to put that much on it. Put thread sealant on it or it'll leak oil from the crank galley.

I had to torque mine while the motor was in the car, without a lift. I used a pry bar on flexplate to lock the crank and on my back I was able to torque it to 140ft-lbs. Finally I wedged my body and used my legs to push the torque wrench to get it to 219ft-lbs. I don't remember it leaking any oil, but I did put sealant on it.

 

[1984 t-type]

Where are you guys putting the sealant again ? Backside of the washer ?

 

[whitehot1]

Where are you guys putting the sealant again ? Backside of the washer ?

This is all i have ever done and never had any leaks.

1. Slide the harmonic balancer back on and install the bolt. A little thread locker can be added to the threads for a little insurance.
2. Torque the bolt to 220 ft/lbs

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Where are you guys putting the sealant again ? Backside of the washer ?

No, put it on the threads, and you don't need a lot. If you put it on the back of the washer it'll screw up the torque reading and you could break the bolt off in the crank.

I forgot the sealant one time. Big mess. Yuuuuuge.

 

[ek02]

Since the crank threads don't go into any oil passage, putting sealer on the threads will not stop any leak. Maybe you were referring to thread locker on the bolt? Don't forget the slinger or you probably will have a leak from the seal. The only way oil can leak from the bolt area is if the damper is too loose a fit on the crank snout. That' were sealer would help.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Since the crank threads don't go into any oil passage, putting sealer on the threads will not stop any leak. Maybe you were referring to thread locker on the bolt? Don't forget the slinger or you probably will have a leak from the seal. The only way oil can leak from the bolt area is if the damper is too loose a fit on the crank snout. That' were sealer would help.

Maybe my car is odd, but my crank snout bolt hole is connected the galley that feeds the rod journals.

 

[mikestertwo]

Maybe my car is odd, but my crank snout bolt hole is connected the galley that feeds the rod journals.

That is odd. I have never seen that on any engine I have ever built. I put sealer on the inside of the hub before I slide it on the crankshaft and make sure I put some in the key slot because that's where most of the oil migrates from. I don't put any on the crank snout because the hub will push the sealer into the crank case. I built an engine years ago without sealer and it showed signs of oil inside the crank pulley. It wasn't really that noticeable until the engine was taken apart for a rebuild. Since putting sealer on the hub I have never seen any signs of leakage.

 

[Slow91z]

No sealant, no locktite, never have had a problem.

 

[turbofrank]

Get rid of the bulky stock Bolt go arp less torque and yes use arp eng lube.

 

[TurboWh1]

I torqued my stock balancer about 10 years ago to the recommended 219 ft pounds. I even utilized a calibrated torque wrench from my dad's tool shop to ensure it was correct. I ended up cracking the balancer which ultimately caused the bolt to loosen and back off. Luckily it never came all the way off but I had a hell of a time tracking down a misfire. The balancer was so loose it was pulling the reluctor ring out of the crank sensor groove. I now torque to 150 foot pounds with blue locktite. Never a bit of problem. No leaks or issues cracking the balancer. I've probably used this method 7-8 times in the last 10 years.

 

[A2000RICH]

No sealant, no locktite, never have had a problem.

I agree. I have built so many of these motors over the last 25 years that I lost count long ago. I currently have over a dozen of them right now in the shop being built. Never put sealer anywhere near the crank snout and never had a leak from the crank. Never seen a single crank out of hundreds that have an oil passage to the bolt threads----thats really wierd ??? I use the stock bolt on all engines that use the stock balancer at 220 lbs and usually use ARP bolts on real harmonic balancers like the BHJ..................RC

 

[1984 t-type]

Get rid of the bulky stock Bolt go arp less torque and yes use arp eng lube.

Do you have a part # for the ARP bolt ? I currently dont even know where I put the stock one anyway

 

[turbofrank]

I don't have info look up their website.

 

[ek02]

I went to my local Fastenal dealer and ordered a grade 8 bolt slightly longer than stock. The stock bolt is 3/4 SAE fine thread X 1 3/8" long. I went with a 1 1/2" long bolt for a BHJ balancer. Check the thread depth on your crank. The part # for Buick V6 and V8 in the ARP catalog is 120-2501. The bolt is 1.300" long with 3/4 16 threads. What I don't care for is the socket size is 13/16. Kind of a small head to put 220 Ft Lbs of torque on it. You also need the big flat washer used on the stock bolt.

 

[Buick Mark]

Tighten it with my impact, no sealer, no thread locker, no issues