You can type here any text you want

Rims and Tire recommendations

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

my1stgn

Active Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2005
Messages
1,550
Basic questions here. Also I tried the search feature but couldnt answer my own question. Im modding the GN and have finally hit the point where I need to upgrade to slicks due to traction issues. I was running stock regular tires on the street and track. Now to my questions:

1: Which rims should I use? IE size, brand , back spacing, ect to get the fatest tire in the rear. I havent rolled the fender and dont plan too either.
I wanted to keep the stock look and saw that G-Body (I think) makes custom GN style rims in different sizes. Would 15X10" rims fit? Could I go bigger? Also what size tire would fit on those rims?

2: What brand tires and size should I run? Both on stock rims and 15X10" rims? Not to worried about weight savings yet.

3: What 60 ft times should I be looking for?

4: What size are our stock rims? 15x6?
Thanks!
 
In my opinion, I would run 15x8 rims with 28x11.50 Mickey Thompson ET Streets on the rear. I had them on my car without rolling the fender lip and they fit nicely. I had a little issue with the tire barely rubbing the fram if the pressure got too low but at good pressure, they worked perfectly. Not sure what backspace they were though. I'm sure someone will chime in on backspace. Another thing is, just buy a set of lightweight ProStars or Draglites. For the cost of those custom rims, you could get a set of lightweight rims. Although the widen rims are nice, they are heavy!
 
if your running a 15x8 you need 3.5" backspacing.

my old slicks were mt et drags 26x11 on a 15x10 with 4.5bs. only rubbing was once i threw the car into a hard corner and the outside tire hit the wheel trim.
 
Cragar and Weld rims back spacing are typically available in 1/2" increments. 3", 3.5", 4" 4.5" etc. Typically 15x6 - 15x7 will work up front with 3.5" bs. 205 - 235 in 60-65 x 15 will work on those wheels as well. Stock wheels are 7" wide and came with 215/65/15 Goodyear Eagle GT tires that would last about 3k miles. :rolleyes:
Out back a 15x8 with 3.5" back spacing will fit no problems, as well as your 28x11.5 MT ET Streets. If you go 15x10, I recommend 4.5" back spacing and you can run a 28x10.5 MT ET slick on either wheel. It is recommended to roll the outer wheel lips, or else run dual air bags and keep them aired up so the tires don't rub on the lips.
HTH

Patrick
 
Cragar and Weld rims back spacing are typically available in 1/2" increments. 3", 3.5", 4" 4.5" etc. Typically 15x6 - 15x7 will work up front with 3.5" bs. 205 - 235 in 60-65 x 15 will work on those wheels as well. Stock wheels are 7" wide and came with 215/65/15 Goodyear Eagle GT tires that would last about 3k miles. :rolleyes:
Out back a 15x8 with 3.5" back spacing will fit no problems, as well as your 28x11.5 MT ET Streets. If you go 15x10, I recommend 4.5" back spacing and you can run a 28x10.5 MT ET slick on either wheel. It is recommended to roll the outer wheel lips, or else run dual air bags and keep them aired up so the tires don't rub on the lips.
HTH

Patrick

Well I guess the good news is the car already has dual air bags in the back. What psi should I run them if I want to run 15X10" rims w/ 4.5" BS? Also am I correct in assuming a 28X11.5 tire is wider than a 28X10.5? If so why could I only run a 28X10.5 on a 10" wide rim but yet run a 28x11.5 on a 15.8" rim? Also any pics/links of the rims you recommend? thanks fellas!
 
The DOT rated bias ply ET Street tires from MT have larger size numbers than a standard Slick. Don't know if this is for DOT purposes or what, but the 28x12.5" MT ET Street bias ply is a 28x10.5 ET Drag Slick with groves and a DOT number. The 28x11.5 ET Street is almost the same size as a 28x9 ET Drag Slick with groves and a DOT number.
Here's the link from Jegs that gives more info on tire sizes.

Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Tires - JEGS

Here is a picture of my old Limited with Weld Draglite 15x10 with 4.5" bs and 28x12.5 MT ET Streets bias ply.

RareT.jpg


No rolling of the fender trim, rear end was centered and the both air bags were always at 10-11psi each for street cruising. I would put them at 27psi pass side and 7psi drivers side at the track. Tires at 11psi cold and launch at 12-14psi at the track. Best 60ft was a 1.52 with this setup. SSM rear bars, dual air bags, pinion snubber, no front sway bar, stock rear sway bar & ds loop.
Here is a picture of my old Grey car with Weld Pro Star 15x10 with 4.5" bs and MT ET Drag Slick 28x10.5

PatscarRUQWKNF.jpg


And here is a picture with Weld Pro Star 15x10 with 4.5" bs and 295/50/15 BFG Radial T/As.

P2253678.jpg


The Grey car did have the fenders rolled and no wheel trim. Same suspension stuff done as the Limited, but with 90/10 front drag shocks.

Here is a pic, (sorry it's not as clear) of the 15x6 with 205/70/15 BFG and 15x8 with 295/50/15 Hoosier Quick Time DOT tires. Both rims had 3.5" bs.

RARETLAUNCH.jpg


I will dig around and try to find more pics. I would say run a minimum of 10psi in both bags with a large tire on 15x10s for street driving, especially if you remove the front sway bar and intend to drive the car a lot.
HTH

Patrick
 
Thanks man! Good info! Im not planning on driving the vehicle to the track with these tires on. I will drive there with the stock rims on, then at the track switch to the drag slicks. So not worried about DOT tires, what would be the best tires in your opinoin for me. IE pretend this is your vehicle and your looking at getting another set of rims/tires for the rear for when you go to the track. What benifit would I get from removing the front sway bar? I saw you had it in there as one of your mods. Thanks!
 
If you are just looking for the best tire for track only, then go with a MT ET Drag slick. Period dot done.
If your goals are run low 11's or faster, then I personally would go 15x10 with 4.5" bs and a 28x10.5" ET Drag slick. Run them at 10 psi cold and launch to the moon. It is recommended to roll the fender lips and trim, and definitely do some measuring to make sure the rear end is centered and not off set to one side or the other. This is very important when running 15x10" rims. You could run a 15x8" rim with 3.5" bs, but the 28x10.5 slick will bulge more on this rim. If you are only wanting to run 11.50 or slower, then a 26x10 ET Drag slick will work on this rim as well. But you might have to shift to overdrive with this size tire at that ET/MPH level. When the grey car was in the 11.30s, I ran 26x10 slick, it got to the point that the car was making enough power to really spin those tires way too much and it was dangerous on the street, trying to launch it. Went to 28" and they hooked better at the track and on the street. I'm a firm believer in the factory 3.42 rear gear as well. The Grey car had a TH400 and I still kept the 3.42s, the white car had a 200 trans and I also kept the 3.42.
Removing the front sway bar will let the front suspension travel to it's maximum and helps the car to rotate onto the back tires. Aka weight transfer. This is not recommended on a daily driven car where you frequently take freeway on ramps at speed, unless you are running dual air bags aired up to 10-15psi in both. The air bags will help eliminate the sway that comes from removing the front sway bar. Not only does it help with weight transfer, but you also take 30#s off the front of the car by removing it.
HTH

Patrick
 
If you are just looking for the best tire for track only, then go with a MT ET Drag slick. Period dot done.
If your goals are run low 11's or faster, then I personally would go 15x10 with 4.5" bs and a 28x10.5" ET Drag slick. Run them at 10 psi cold and launch to the moon. It is recommended to roll the fender lips and trim, and definitely do some measuring to make sure the rear end is centered and not off set to one side or the other. This is very important when running 15x10" rims. You could run a 15x8" rim with 3.5" bs, but the 28x10.5 slick will bulge more on this rim. If you are only wanting to run 11.50 or slower, then a 26x10 ET Drag slick will work on this rim as well. But you might have to shift to overdrive with this size tire at that ET/MPH level. When the grey car was in the 11.30s, I ran 26x10 slick, it got to the point that the car was making enough power to really spin those tires way too much and it was dangerous on the street, trying to launch it. Went to 28" and they hooked better at the track and on the street. I'm a firm believer in the factory 3.42 rear gear as well. The Grey car had a TH400 and I still kept the 3.42s, the white car had a 200 trans and I also kept the 3.42.
Removing the front sway bar will let the front suspension travel to it's maximum and helps the car to rotate onto the back tires. Aka weight transfer. This is not recommended on a daily driven car where you frequently take freeway on ramps at speed, unless you are running dual air bags aired up to 10-15psi in both. The air bags will help eliminate the sway that comes from removing the front sway bar. Not only does it help with weight transfer, but you also take 30#s off the front of the car by removing it.
HTH

Patrick


Perfect! This makes sense! Now are these tires tubeless or do I need to run a tube at that low a psi? Like I said I have dual air bags on the rear so these 28x10.5" should fit the vehicle right without rolling the fender lip? And you recommend the Weld Pro Star 15x10 with 4.5" BS? How light are they compared to stock? Thanks again!:D
 
Those 15x9s are definitely heavier than Draglites or Pro Stars. Also, unless you plan on running longer wheel studs, I don't recommend running any spacers with stock wheel studs and slicks. That's a recipe for disaster. As long as you are installing the tires at the track, tubes are not mandatory. I've tried slicks both ways, and always preferred no tubes. The car tended to hook better without tubes. I would recommend taking along an air tank as the slicks can loose pressure if they sit for awhile. Just the nature of the beast. The Welds are very light, when compared to the chrome steel GN wheels. And they are lighter than the aluminum T wheels as well. Not sure of the exact weight difference, but I know they are lighter by quite a bit.
HTH

Patrick
 
So what kind of psi should I run if Im not going to use inner tubes on the tires? Any adverse affect to not using inner tubes? IE blowouts, air leaks, ect
 
I always ran 10psi cold on the 28x10.5 slicks with no tubes. Never had a problem with the tires. I would also take the tires off the car before loading it on a trailer, install my radials, wipe all the rocks and trash off of them, and store them in the trunk. And finally the car in garage. Over time, the tires would leak down, and would need to be re-inflated. That is the only downside to not running tubes. Most of my friends that are making serious hp, (1000+) are running tubes with their slicks. I also forgot to mention, you will need metal valve stems like these.

720-1957.jpg


This quote taken directly from page 218 of the 2006 NHRA rule book. "Metal, screw in valve stems manditory in tubeless tires, front and rear, on vehicles running 11.99 and quicker." You don't have to drill aftermarket rims either. They are a simple bolt on , screw together affair. Not so easy with factory T wheels, as the valve stem hole is not flush like your aftermarket wheels are. Other than this, if you intend to swap out tires, I see no other down sides to running tubeless at your ET/hp level.
HTH

Patrick
 
They are becoming very popular with Buick racers. I have seen a few cars running these. No first hand experience tho. I would imagine the weight would be similar to the Welds.

Patrick
 
Back
Top