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RJC, could you pull off this bolt on vacuum pump for GN's?

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GNVYUS 1

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Dec 15, 2002
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4,335
http://www.tinindianperformance.com/TIP crank mandrel drive systems.htm

The Pontiac guys have two new BOLT ON crank pulley driven vacuum pumps coming out, probably going to cost them around $550.

But since these pumps are already in existence, all we would need is a talented fella like Race Jace to make the crank pulley adapter and mounting plates and we have an easy 15hp and better sealing motor along with a cool appendage hangin off our cranks to show the hunnies at the car shows. ;)

I hate it when the oil just blows out of the driver breather all over my nice HPC headers, is this a possibility Jace?
 
has anyone tried adding a catchcan and hooking the breatherlines to the inlet of the turbo so the turbo pulls a vacuum on the crankcase and the catch can pulls the oil out of the air so it doesn't get in the inlet system and cause knock and slipping hoses?
 
I use a catchcan inline between the PCV valve and the inlet to the vacuum block. It's a pint size paint can with homemade oil separation innards, and there's also a check valve inline so the paint can doesn't blow its lid under boost. Not as much vacuum as if I had hooked to the turbo inlet, but enough to crush a quart size can if your motor makes decent manifold vacuum. It might sound cheezy to some, but that thing fills up with oil fast, about a quarter of a pint in 200 miles. All that would end up in my intake otherwise...
 
The stock turbos had the port on the inlet bell with a hose to the passenger valve cover breather, but it would suck in to much oil into the combustion chamber.

Maybe there is a different way to use the aftermarket turbos and the passenger valve cover to create the vacuum like the Buick engineers originally designed.

Like taking an inlet pipe with a tube for a recirulating blow off and putting a filter on it and then going to the valve cover. That will have the same vacuum effect the factory had intended yet have a filter or multiple filters on it to kill the oil.

I am not sure, but I hate the puking problem.
 
DR.BOOSTER said:
The stock turbos had the port on the inlet bell with a hose to the passenger valve cover breather, but it would suck in to much oil into the combustion chamber.

Maybe there is a different way to use the aftermarket turbos and the passenger valve cover to create the vacuum like the Buick engineers originally designed.

That hose off the turbo to the valve cover was for a *clean* air supply for the PCV system. Only due to excessive blow-by, did it then become a crankcase vent.
 
If your turbo is "pulling vacuum" much, your air intake is too small. The air cleaner and the piping should be large enough that the turbo doesn't get choked off, and pull a vacuum. Some had problems with the hose collapsing when the boost was turned up, using the stock air filter, which was very restrictive. There will actually be a very slight vacuum in the inlet line to the turbo, but anything more than just a few tenths of a psi is too much- it makes the turbo work harder, and costs horsepower.
 
run hoses from the breather ports on the valve covers to a catch can(s) then route the hose off of the catch can(s) to the inlet of the turbo so it pulls a vacuum on the cans, and it turn the crankcase, especially under booste. Personally I would route drain line(s) with a check valve so the oil drains back into the crankcase while the crankcase is under vacuum, when it goes into boost, the checkvalve keeps the drain closed.
Am I off my rocker?
 
CTX-SLPR said:
run hoses from the breather ports on the valve covers to a catch can(s) then route the hose off of the catch can(s) to the inlet of the turbo so it pulls a vacuum on the cans, and it turn the crankcase, especially under booste.

Personally I would route drain line(s) with a check valve so the oil drains back into the crankcase while the crankcase is under vacuum, when it goes into boost, the checkvalve keeps the drain closed.
Am I off my rocker?

You're slightly off your rocker :)

There's just not much of a pressure drop pre turbo, and you don't want to risk any oil mist getting in. By not much, depending on air filter, you might have trouble even measuring it.

There's just no need to do anything pre turbo, other then poccibly using it as an air supply for the PACV system. And again, there's still the risk of oil the intake tract.

If you want a vacuum source, for evacuating the pan, you might try using an air injection check valve, and plumb it in post turbo to use the high volume of exhaust gases to pull a vac across the check valve.
............0 0= check valve placement.
........./.../
____/.. /______
.............................To Turbo
_____________

Ignore the dots for understanding valve to pipe mounting relationship.
personally, I don't care for them.

The vacuum pump, IMO, would be the way to go.
While it'll cost a few HP for the pump, the power gains, and engine life should be well worth it.
 
You are talking about a pan-e-vac sytem there Bruce, uses a venturi style vacuum source. We use a simular setup to create a vacuum using a house airsupply to keep a suction cup track on the side of airplanes during inspection. I'm not sure the emmisions implications on a pre PCV vehicle though. Yes thats right, my 61 Buick doesn't even have a PCV valve.
 
DR.BOOSTER said:
I hate it when the oil just blows out of the driver breather all over my nice HPC headers, is this a possibility Jace?
Put some rings in it that seal and that problem goes away. Total Seals that is. Jason runs those :biggrin:
 
Thanks for the link, looks like the Ponty set up even down to the Morosso pump and crank pulley appendage. But thats exactly what I was looking for, a complete bolt on set up.

But there were no other details like where do they plumb into for the vacuum source, Price and where the hell does the power steering pump go?

I was going to run the total seals, but a lot of engine builders suggested that a street car motor might not be the best situation to run those rings in. :confused:
 
Too many people running the Total Seals with great luck to dispell those engine builders. With them in place you won't get a drop of oil out of your breathers! :cool:
 
Have to agree with Intercooler...have Total Seal top gapless and haven't seen a single drop of oil out the breathers...as for the builder stating TS rings aren't good for running on the street...they do have ring sets specifically for race cars(no street duty) but also have sets for cars that will see racing and street duty...that's what I have...
 
1,500 miles 4 passes and 2 dyno pulls and not a drop of oil.
 
DR.BOOSTER said:
Thanks for the link, looks like the Ponty set up even down to the Morosso pump and crank pulley appendage. But thats exactly what I was looking for, a complete bolt on set up.

But there were no other details like where do they plumb into for the vacuum source, Price and where the hell does the power steering pump go?

I was going to run the total seals, but a lot of engine builders suggested that a street car motor might not be the best situation to run those rings in. :confused:

I ran the White Racing EVAC system on my GS this past year. You have to install a -12 fitting (on a valve cover or in the intake and install a catch can). Can't run PS with that bracket set-up. Here's a pic of my car with system installed (long before it was gutted by fire last month). Second pic shows VC fitting location I used for EVAC.

Art
 

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Ask Lee Tompson about his experince with total seal rings. I didn't hear it from him but someone else told me that he had issues with them. I hope he would chime in and let us know about his findings.


Prasad
 
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