You can type here any text you want

rods/pistons/camshaft

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

TURBOWNER

INDY V6
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Messages
114
can someone tell me what the 3 dot rods are and if they ARE the turbo rods? also if forged TRW are the way to go on a stock style rebuild. I'm building an emissions legal engine, but want to make it bulletproof for smog legal part add on's. Also a cam grind that will pass CA emissions would be great. I have a 9 sec twin turbo motor, but am actually lost with the stock stuff! Thanks, Bill
 
It's been my experience that a factory rod with 'SPS' bolts are the turbo rods. I think they just used a stronger bolt on the turbo rods. That is the only thing I can see a difference in. The stock rods work great in any street engine up to about 600 H.P. (even higher with a great tune-up) They DO bend if detonated hard, though at that power level. The TRW pistons are good pistons, but they have VERY heavy wrist pins. A simple pin replacement is a good idea to help lighten things up, but not required. For a cam, I would suggest a hydraulic roller in the 208 range for emissions. A 208 roller is capable of running DEEP in the tens and still idling very smooth.
 
Few of us norcal guys have passed easily with the 206 roller cams and a good cat. Must have functional EGR.
 
camshaft

thanks for that. which 206 roller cam and who makes it? i was truly hoping to stay in budget with a flat tappet cam, if i can get some good feedback. i guess a 206 in the same grind wouldnt be any different as far as emissions, would it? i will definitly use an egr, so thanks for that..Bill
 
At 206* any type cam should pass with no issues. The roller cam is the way to go for longevity. Pay me now or pay me later.;)
 
Since its just a driver ( I ASSume??) get roller cam & lifters from Mike at Full Throttle, new springs & the rest use stock stuff with a roller cam nose button up front. You may need shaft braces & spacers for the stock valve covers? I have never wiped a flat tappet but one did look rough after about 5K & 100 track passes. It was a Reeds 214 so make sure you have EOS or ZDDP in the oil if going the flat tappet route. Breakin is critical as I am sure you know. Mike's rollers are fairly priced so they are tempting & most use the roller for safety in the long run.
 
camshaft

thanks for the info guys. its funny how spoiled we are with technology! all of those years using flat tappet cams with few problems. now it seems nobody wants to use them anymore! I realize the zinc content has been the issue, but hopefully it is resolved and we can still use flat tappet cams. Just for my own knowledge, (and the forums) i'm going to use one on this build and see how it wears. If i see any issues, i'll swap it out and change the bearings at the same time. I spent all of my money on the twin turbo roller cammed engine that is in the car now, so it will be fun to see how yesterdays technology does with a 500hp motor. I'll keep it updated even though it may take a few months. I really appreciate all of the input. Bill
 
can someone tell me what the 3 dot rods are and if they ARE the turbo rods? also if forged TRW are the way to go on a stock style rebuild. I'm building an emissions legal engine, but want to make it bulletproof for smog legal part add on's. Also a cam grind that will pass CA emissions would be great. I have a 9 sec twin turbo motor, but am actually lost with the stock stuff! Thanks, Bill

three dot rods are a slightly different length than the two dot rods-------check them carefully for deck height with your pistons-------as for the L2481F TRW pistons they were shipped with two different weight pins-------early were really heavy and later were much lighter..........RC
 
From my experience, the 3 bump rods came in the early 80,s NA engines. Later engines had 2 bump rods that should be slightly stronger.
 
Back
Top