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"Reaper"

Gone To The Dark Side
Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Messages
1,011
Ok went roller cam and waiting on the adjustable cam button.OK so how do you install it?I know there are some chimes or something but how do you check clearances.


Thanks
Shaun
 
i'd also like to know, i've seen post's where they talk about clearance's, but how in th h can u measure with timing cover on? :confused:
 
I know someone that uses a spring tensioner with roller button. No issues whatsoever. Yes, roller cam.
 
I did mine on the engine stand I removed the rear cam cover (freeze plug) put cam in with cam button (sets on the end of cam) bolted on timing cover with proper gasket and torque the timing cover to spec. In the rear of the block I used a magnetic base dial indicator on the rear of the cam. I then used a long screw driver to move the cam all the way to the front then all the way to the rear and measured this distance. stick the screwdriver through the openings in the valley between the heads. If distance is ok then it's set if there is too much thrust then add the the spacer shims (thin washers) onto the button untill your satisfied. Someone may have a better way but I looked at it and just did it. These instructions were not given to me just did it the way I saw fit. I don't think this could be done properly with engine still in car.
 
On my install, I had the front cover machined on the old button spot about.032. You can move the cam back and forth carefully and put the dial indicator on the edge of one of the cam lobes. I had to take the cover off 3 times to take off more material from the timing cover. I ended up with .003 for play. This is a Weber racing cam kit with the removable gear. Works great so far! I hope this helps. Phil.
 
What are the #'s I am looking for?What is tight and what is to loose?How much play should there be?


Anyone know of a link that has Pics or details instructions for instillation?
 
Shaun,
If you would care to contact me I can fax you the installation instructions.
The roller thrust for the austemper cam is supplied by DLS Engine.
219-956-3653
 
Dan Thanks I will be calling YA.



Thanks for all the great info Guys..
Shaun
 
Here are the installation instructions:
1 Install timing cover gasket , install cover to set gasket crush. Use a minimum of 4 bolts on the
corners.
2 With a screwdriver catch a high lobe thru /between oil galley drain hole. ( not installing the
chain makes this a little easier)
3 Verify that the cam has end play movement .004-.008 is good . (A SLIGHT CAM SHIFT FOR & AFT )*
4 If step 3 has been verified to be ok , remove bolts and front cover and resume normal installation
of chain gears etc.
5 If step 3 does not reveal any end play install or remove shims to obtain correct play. ( The set contains
1-.030 2-.010 2-.005 shims )
6 Degree cam to card specs to insure maximum performance.
 
I did mine on the engine stand I removed the rear cam cover (freeze plug) put cam in with cam button (sets on the end of cam) bolted on timing cover with proper gasket and torque the timing cover to spec. In the rear of the block I used a magnetic base dial indicator on the rear of the cam. I then used a long screw driver to move the cam all the way to the front then all the way to the rear and measured this distance. stick the screwdriver through the openings in the valley between the heads. If distance is ok then it's set if there is too much thrust then add the the spacer shims (thin washers) onto the button untill your satisfied. Someone may have a better way but I looked at it and just did it. These instructions were not given to me just did it the way I saw fit. I don't think this could be done properly with engine still in car.

That seems to be the best way - but of course the engine can't be in the car.

If it is in the car, it is possible to get a measurement thru the oil return holes in the lifter valley. It is hard to get standard calipers in there and get a lobe straight-on.
 
Here are the installation instructions:
1 Install timing cover gasket , install cover to set gasket crush. Use a minimum of 4 bolts on the
corners.
2 With a screwdriver catch a high lobe thru /between oil galley drain hole. ( not installing the
chain makes this a little easier)
3 Verify that the cam has end play movement .004-.008 is good . (A SLIGHT CAM SHIFT FOR & AFT )*
4 If step 3 has been verified to be ok , remove bolts and front cover and resume normal installation
of chain gears etc.
5 If step 3 does not reveal any end play install or remove shims to obtain correct play. ( The set contains
1-.030 2-.010 2-.005 shims )
6 Degree cam to card specs to insure maximum performance.

so what i`m taken is #3 verify that the cam has end play....what tool do i need to check this with per instructions? and where do i put the tool per instruction? sorry just lost and what to do it right
 
OK this is how I did it.ended up using one of the .30 and one .005 shims.

It gave me around .008. I like to use a little RTV around water ports so will add the other .005 shim for good measure.

MotorPics007.jpg


MotorPics008.jpg


MotorPics009.jpg


MotorPics010.jpg
 
how would that be accurate ? the further your get away from dial indicator being parallel to the cam the measurement cannot be the same as the dial indicator is reading .
I'm sure there is a calculation to the angle between the dial indicator and the line of the camshaft to measure it accurately

OK this is how I did it.ended up using one of the .30 and one .005 shims.

It gave me around .008. I like to use a little RTV around water ports so will add the other .005 shim for good measure.

MotorPics007.jpg


MotorPics008.jpg


MotorPics009.jpg


MotorPics010.jpg
 
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