Well I pulled the dial indicator out abit so it would keep tensen on the cam.I put the of dial indicator rod on the very eadge of the cam lobe.Any movement forward or back makes the dial indicator needle move.So how could it be wrong?
Roller Cam Button
- Thread starter "Reaper"
- Start date
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OK this is how I did it.ended up using one of the .30 and one .005 shims.
It gave me around .008. I like to use a little RTV around water ports so will add the other .005 shim for good measure.
Would this be right? I want to only have to do this once...
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/engine-tech/235479-how-much-end-play-roller-cam.html
look at post #11 the pic shows the dial indicator on the back of the cam through the opening covered by the freeze plug
look at post #11 the pic shows the dial indicator on the back of the cam through the opening covered by the freeze plug
MY question is wouldn't the way that I have done it give ya the same measurement?I know that the Pics are not very clear but I am pretty strait on the top top edge of the lobe.My question is if I knock out the plug in the rear and measure from there and put a new plug in and put it in to far by a few thousandths.Then my measurement could still be to tight right?My motor building experience has all been ford motors and have never had to do this so I want to get it right.
Thanks for the help on this one
Shaun
Thanks for the help on this one
Shaun
The way that I did it:
Look at the 3rd picture, far left hand side - there is a hole that runs through the front of the block. Stick your dial indicator through this hole and it hits the front of the cam. Or maybe it hits the back of the timing chain gear. I forget. So anyway, your measurement is a LOT closer to the horizontal fore/aft movement of the cam than trying to get on a lobe through one of the vertical drain holes. My recollection is that you can't get it perfectly horizontal, and it's a bitch to get the dial indicator set up steady since you can't use the regular magnetic base, but it does work, and the measurement you get is a LOT more accurate.
Also, as a warning in case some of you run into the same problem I did, there is a tab on the inside of the timing chain cover that can interfere with some timing chains. Do a search and you'll find some others that have run into this. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to get more clearance, because every time I bolted everything together I had zero cam end play, even with no shims at all. After a few days of cursing, and finally a search here, I found out about that tab. Zapped it off in a few secs with the Dremel tool, and voila - loads of end play. Then I had to figure out how to undo some of the things I did while cussing the thing out the night before.
John
Look at the 3rd picture, far left hand side - there is a hole that runs through the front of the block. Stick your dial indicator through this hole and it hits the front of the cam. Or maybe it hits the back of the timing chain gear. I forget. So anyway, your measurement is a LOT closer to the horizontal fore/aft movement of the cam than trying to get on a lobe through one of the vertical drain holes. My recollection is that you can't get it perfectly horizontal, and it's a bitch to get the dial indicator set up steady since you can't use the regular magnetic base, but it does work, and the measurement you get is a LOT more accurate.
Also, as a warning in case some of you run into the same problem I did, there is a tab on the inside of the timing chain cover that can interfere with some timing chains. Do a search and you'll find some others that have run into this. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to get more clearance, because every time I bolted everything together I had zero cam end play, even with no shims at all. After a few days of cursing, and finally a search here, I found out about that tab. Zapped it off in a few secs with the Dremel tool, and voila - loads of end play. Then I had to figure out how to undo some of the things I did while cussing the thing out the night before.
John
Shaun - it's a geometry thing. To get a fore/aft movement of 0.008, or whatever you are targeting, you'll actually see a longer distance on the dial indicator if it is pointed up at an angle like that. It's like two sides of a triangle. If the dial indicator is at a 45 deg angle to the cam shaft, and the dial indicator is showing 0.008" when you move the cam back and forth, the real end play (the actual back and forth movement) is 0.0057". The closer you can get the dial indicator to horizontal (ie no angle between it and the cam), the less error there is in the measurement.
John
thats what I was trying to say you just did a much better job at explaining it thankyou
