Rough idle - BLM stuck at 128?
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getdowngranny
Mr. Fix It
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Messages
- 907
What else is the car doing? Your TPS is just a tad high and you IAC is also high. I would follow the procedures for setting both TPS and IAC. What chip do you have and what is the static fuel pressure?
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Not trying to argue with someone that's probably forgot more about these cars then I'll ever know
.
I've checked the accuracy of the Glowshift boost and fuel pressure gauges with other test gauges, but not in the same way. More along the lines of hooking them up in parallel on the car and seeing if the readings matched. My testing, while not scientific, was in the "middle" of the gauge range, and not on the lowest or highest end, where any gauge is more prone to errors. The op asked about budget gauges, and they seemed to be accurate enough for me. Now I'm just talking about boost and fuel pressure. What your videos proved to me is I wouldn't want one for oil pressure or anything that was on the low end, which is where oil pressure is on our cars when they're warmed up.
I'll finish with saying many Thanks for the things you have done for our cars! I've had my TR6 on for a few years now, and while I don't race it that much, I don't worry about ignition problems anymore!
.I've checked the accuracy of the Glowshift boost and fuel pressure gauges with other test gauges, but not in the same way. More along the lines of hooking them up in parallel on the car and seeing if the readings matched. My testing, while not scientific, was in the "middle" of the gauge range, and not on the lowest or highest end, where any gauge is more prone to errors. The op asked about budget gauges, and they seemed to be accurate enough for me. Now I'm just talking about boost and fuel pressure. What your videos proved to me is I wouldn't want one for oil pressure or anything that was on the low end, which is where oil pressure is on our cars when they're warmed up.
I'll finish with saying many Thanks for the things you have done for our cars! I've had my TR6 on for a few years now, and while I don't race it that much, I don't worry about ignition problems anymore!
couple things.
those MAF sensors with the connector pointed horizontally are known to be "not great", you might want to try to borrow a known good stock one to test with.
the plug wires have a green tinge to the coil end boots, so they probably need replacement. at least pop them off the coil towers and clean up whatever you see (most likely a lot of crud)
make sure your wastegate hoses are good, then ends tend to dry out and split, causing overboost and broken parts
those injectors look original, you may have a sticky one, check for worn spots on the injector wiring harness also.
I wouldn't worry about a little oil on the intake, they all seem to get that way.
Bob
those MAF sensors with the connector pointed horizontally are known to be "not great", you might want to try to borrow a known good stock one to test with.
the plug wires have a green tinge to the coil end boots, so they probably need replacement. at least pop them off the coil towers and clean up whatever you see (most likely a lot of crud)
make sure your wastegate hoses are good, then ends tend to dry out and split, causing overboost and broken parts
those injectors look original, you may have a sticky one, check for worn spots on the injector wiring harness also.
I wouldn't worry about a little oil on the intake, they all seem to get that way.
Bob
Not trying to argue with someone that's probably forgot more about these cars then I'll ever know
I've checked the accuracy of the Glowshift boost and fuel pressure gauges with other test gauges, but not in the same way. More along the lines of hooking them up in parallel on the car and seeing if the readings matched. My testing, while not scientific, was in the "middle" of the gauge range, and not on the lowest or highest end, where any gauge is more prone to errors. The op asked about budget gauges, and they seemed to be accurate enough for me. Now I'm just talking about boost and fuel pressure. What your videos proved to me is I wouldn't want one for oil pressure or anything that was on the low end, which is where oil pressure is on our cars when they're warmed up.
I'll finish with saying many Thanks for the things you have done for our cars! I've had my TR6 on for a few years now, and while I don't race it that much, I don't worry about ignition problems anymore!
the biggest issue with the glowshift oil pressure gauge looks to be the sender. I think the boost gauges use a MAP sensor, and are likely a bit better. The gauge was somewhat slow, but reasonable. For fuel pressure, once you get up above 25 psi I think the gauge was pretty close.
Bob
Robert Dean
Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2015
- Messages
- 53
I think im having a similar problem with my 87 GN. I starts and runs but idles really rough. I have to feather the throttle to keep it running until it warms up a bit but then it sounds like it wants to die. I can tell its running very fuel rich by the overwelming flooded smell. a warning light comes on but its the washer fluid light, havent figured that one out by im interpreting it as a service engine light. i can drive it and it smoothes up and runs fine and the light goes out but as soon as i go back to idle it sounds like it want to die and the light comes back on. i dont have a scan tool to pull the computer codes. i did disconnect the battery wire to reset the computer and i tested the tps. tps seems to be working properly. i adjusted it to .44 at idle and it goes up to 4.40 at wot. i think thats normal operating range. i took off the maf to see if it was dirty. i was a bit oily but no dirt or crud stuck to the little wire. the k and n air filter was pretty dirty though. its one of those ones you have to oil before installing........im not sure if thats normal or not. I dont know where to go from here but i need some help/advice from anyone.
Your kinda hijacking this thread, but your new and welcome! If your smelling it rich with no cat, well, they smell that way when running right. IMHO, you need to get a Scanmaster, to tell you what the car is doing, in 1987 computer time, and upgrade to a powerlogger asap. That's $500 or so.It gives you an update rate on what the car is doing X 10. Then get a MAF Translator and Maf, which gets you away from the problems that 30 year old maf's have. Next thing to do, is get Bob Bailys TR6 ignition system at another $600 or so. Now you've taken away the obvious problems. Turbo Tweak Chip for your combo. Spring cleaning on the car. These damn things are money pits for sure, but everyone else can have a Camaro or Mustang or...a Hellcat Challenger.
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