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Runnin' Without the Intercooler.

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HighMileage

Albany,NY
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
973
Is there an easy way to run without one? What plumbing parts are needed? All I have to do is get to a paint shop 15mi away.

I've got a guy locally who will install a Dutt neck. I dont want to make the car un-runnable at the painter.

I was planning on getting the paint work done near the end of Feb. But being it's too cold in the garage I rent to work on the GN,might as well send it to the painter early. I'll just tough it out removing the intercooler.
 
He's bringing the car to a paint shop, I am sure they have heat.:)

Just get a 180 degree 2.5" pipe and go from the turbo outlet to the throttle body. Could also use straight pipe and a couple straight connectors and a couple of 90 degree connectors. Doesn't have to be pretty to just get you to the paint shop.
 
if you set up for no intercooler, id remove the wastegate rod also....dont want anyone hot rodding around and break somthing
 
Its really simple, If you have the stock MAF flex hose just remove it from the turbo inlet bell and put it on the throttle body with a clamp. It will run just fine for normal driving but with no turbo boost, also unhook the wastegate rod. Now you have a plain old fuel injected v6 and it will take all of 5 minutes to do and put back to normal.
 
why not just buy a 2nd intercooler and have that 1 modified? i have seen stockers sell for $50
 
Its really simple, If you have the stock MAF flex hose just remove it from the turbo inlet bell and put it on the throttle body with a clamp. It will run just fine for normal driving but with no turbo boost, also unhook the wastegate rod. Now you have a plain old fuel injected v6 and it will take all of 5 minutes to do and put back to normal.

The only thing with that,tho....how would I keep the turbo from inhaling something? I took a look at the stock hose,and it does look like it will reach the plenum. Maybe get some fine mesh screen,and hose clamp it over the inlet. ?

As far as just getting another intercooler,and modifying that... I look at it as yet another $50 for yet another spare part laying around. Trying not to get too carried away budget-wise.

As it is,I know a guy who travels around the country to junkyards,buying stuff to sell on eBay. He'll be passing thru this weekend,and has lots of stuff for me. Aluminum bumper reinforcements $10 each,interior parts,etc.

As far as too cold to paint: I have heard that painting during winter produces less desirable results. Even in a heated shop. But quality isn't too big of an issue. I only need the header panel done,(has cracking) the hood(dent from prev owner) and trunk lid( huge spot in clear). The flaws bug me.

Next winter is a complete repaint.
 
The only thing with that,tho....how would I keep the turbo from inhaling something? I took a look at the stock hose,and it does look like it will reach the plenum. Maybe get some fine mesh screen,and hose clamp it over the inlet. ?

You were only talking about driving it to the body shop, If you unhook the wastegate rod it will not build boost, the turbine wheel will still spin but not at a million rpm like when in boost. If you just drive it to the body shop you will be fine. If you are real worried, get a cheap used K&N cone filter and put it on the turbo inlet bell.
 
pantyhose and a rubber band, now that's real funny. Are you planning on running the car without the Mass Air Flow sensor also or you don't have one on your car?
 
Its really simple, If you have the stock MAF flex hose just remove it from the turbo inlet bell and put it on the throttle body with a clamp. It will run just fine for normal driving but with no turbo boost, also unhook the wastegate rod. Now you have a plain old fuel injected v6 and it will take all of 5 minutes to do and put back to normal.

Yesterday it was either sh** or get off the pot as far as bringing the car to the paint shop 15-20 miles away. There's a big snow storm coming.

To my disappointment,the flex hose wouldn't reach the throttle body. So,off to the painter I went with everything intact. I'll just have to wait til I get the car back from the painter. Then it's Dutt neck time.

My little brother gave me a ride back home. He's the one with the SRT8...and he was laying low on the other side of a toll booth,waiting for me to pass by on my way up. I didn't take the bait. The last time I went wot,I got knock.

Once I install an alky kit,then I'll join the 4 or 5 other TR's that blow him away at the local NHRA track.
 
Why not just take 20 min and take it off at the body shop. Leave everything else hooked up and they should be able to move it around.
 
Why not just take 20 min and take it off at the body shop. Leave everything else hooked up and they should be able to move it around.

He's a 1 man operation in a 3 bay shop. I have known him for years. If I took the IC out,then I would be depending on the guy who is installing the neck to finish before the painter. We know how it is to depend on people.

I drove there today in my DD. "I popped the hood and took a look. That's a 6cyl??! Lots of state-of-the-art stuff under there. Maybe I *wouldn't* put a 350 in there." he sez. ...hahaha.

"That turbo and all of that stuff sure would look good on the 327 in my '62 Nova." Don't you DARE!

He's gonna remove the hood to strip/paint it.
 
Runnin without an Int.:biggrin:
Everything is getting coated soon!!
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Runnin without an Int.:biggrin:
Everything is getting coated soon!!
DSCN0503.jpg

DSCN0502.jpg

Nice setup Ghall. Looks like a 3.5" dp maybe a 3" but either way it looks pretty close to the heater box. Can you tell me how much clearance you have between the box and DP and if it's cause any problems as that's the boat I'm in and tryin to get enough clearance as to not melt my heater box with my DP. Thanks
 
Nice setup Ghall. Looks like a 3.5" dp maybe a 3" but either way it looks pretty close to the heater box. Can you tell me how much clearance you have between the box and DP and if it's cause any problems as that's the boat I'm in and tryin to get enough clearance as to not melt my heater box with my DP. Thanks

It is actually a 4" DP. It has a ton of clearance and is actually easier to get to plugs than a stock set-up. We spent a BUNCH of time on designing the headers and DP and then building them. I will include a pic of the pass. side header. All this is going to get coated and should look pretty good when done.
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