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Runs REAL weak, have some weird things maybe you can help solve......PLEASE help

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I'm a little vague on your problem. Does it rev up super slow, possibly even in park? Turbo will spool super slow, car detonates at low boost levels, trans shifts late. I've seen them so bad that you can floor it in park and it won't hit the revlimiter. The convertor might not be your problem but it's very easy to check.

The stock crossover has an inner and outer wall. While it's not common, it has happened to me. The internal wall gets old and collapses but the pipe looks fine on the outside.
 
cool 84 2 said:
I'm a little vague on your problem. Does it rev up super slow, possibly even in park? Turbo will spool super slow, car detonates at low boost levels, trans shifts late. I've seen them so bad that you can floor it in park and it won't hit the revlimiter. The convertor might not be your problem but it's very easy to check.

The stock crossover has an inner and outer wall. While it's not common, it has happened to me. The internal wall gets old and collapses but the pipe looks fine on the outside.

It will rev up ok in park. It actually has a quick......kind of stumble almost before it revs up. It will hit the rev limiter in park though. It revs up real slow when we power brake it, or just drive it, power brake it and take off. REAL slow for the first second. I havent noticed any detonation either. Even at 28psi.
 
fbodlovr said:
PLEASE read everything as it will probably help you understand whats going on. I listed everything I know. ...................
What happens is when you stand on the peddle, it just slowly revs up, but doesnt seem to go to redline(maybe it is, cant tell), and the turbo just isnt spooling up very high. I think we usually see something like 5psi. If we sit there and torque brake it, the turbo will only get up to about 1psi. .................

fbodlovr said:
It will rev up ok in park. It actually has a quick......kind of stumble almost before it revs up. It will hit the rev limiter in park though. It revs up real slow when we power brake it, or just drive it, power brake it and take off. REAL slow for the first second. I havent noticed any detonation either. Even at 28psi.

OK, I read everything as you mentioned.
Now I am confused. First post said you can not get past 1 PSI, torque braking and usually 5 psi boost. Recent post said 28psi and no KR? :confused:

Read somewhere else about some SERIOUS boost with the trasher chip. Be interesting to see what timing it is set at.

I (personally) would not try to hit the rev limiter in P.
 
fbodlovr said:
It will rev up ok in park. It actually has a quick......kind of stumble almost before it revs up. It will hit the rev limiter in park though. It revs up real slow when we power brake it, or just drive it, power brake it and take off. REAL slow for the first second. I havent noticed any detonation either. Even at 28psi.

What does the convertor stall at? I bought a used 3,500 stall convertor that turned out to have a bad stator. Not only was the stall too low, but the car was so slow it wouldn't break the tires free on wet pavement. To elaborate, not only was the stall too low but even after the car was moving and rpms were up, it was still a slug. Does it run ok once rpms and boost are up?

I would still pull the catalytic convertor off and try it just because it's such an easy test.

To eliminate wastegate vacuum hoses as a problem, pull the hoses off the wastegate and try it. Just remember to get into the throttle very slowly because you will now have unlimited boost and the fastest possible spool. Make sure the puck is sealing the entire hole in the turbo. If you suspect the wastegate actuator, I think I have a HD 87 wastegate.

Even if the car is not tuned well such as running real rich, with a small turbo like the 33 it should still spool pretty well. On my dad's daily driver T-type, it was running so rich that when we dynoed it the base line run pulled 260rwhp and just by leaning it out a bunch it hit over 400rwhp. Even with it that rich the TE44 spooled pretty good.

One last thing is you have the right chip for your injectors, right?
 
Jerryl said:
OK, I read everything as you mentioned.
Now I am confused. First post said you can not get past 1 PSI, torque braking and usually 5 psi boost. Recent post said 28psi and no KR? :confused:

Read somewhere else about some SERIOUS boost with the trasher chip. Be interesting to see what timing it is set at.

I (personally) would not try to hit the rev limiter in P.

Haha, no. We were talking about fuel pressure, not boost.

(your quote)Read somewhere else about some SERIOUS boost with the trasher chip. Be interesting to see what timing it is set at.

Do you mean that you read somewhere that you can produce a lot of boost with a thrasher chip??? haha, now you got me confused. :D
 
cool 84 2 said:
What does the convertor stall at? I bought a used 3,500 stall convertor that turned out to have a bad stator. Not only was the stall too low, but the car was so slow it wouldn't break the tires free on wet pavement. To elaborate, not only was the stall too low but even after the car was moving and rpms were up, it was still a slug. Does it run ok once rpms and boost are up?

I would still pull the catalytic convertor off and try it just because it's such an easy test.

To eliminate wastegate vacuum hoses as a problem, pull the hoses off the wastegate and try it. Just remember to get into the throttle very slowly because you will now have unlimited boost and the fastest possible spool. Make sure the puck is sealing the entire hole in the turbo. If you suspect the wastegate actuator, I think I have a HD 87 wastegate.

Even if the car is not tuned well such as running real rich, with a small turbo like the 33 it should still spool pretty well. On my dad's daily driver T-type, it was running so rich that when we dynoed it the base line run pulled 260rwhp and just by leaning it out a bunch it hit over 400rwhp. Even with it that rich the TE44 spooled pretty good.

One last thing is you have the right chip for your injectors, right?

The convertor SEEMS to stall about about 1500 maybe. Honestly cant remember, but it sure isnt very high whatsoever.

As to running ok when the rpms are rising and the boost goes up to about 5psi, it does run pretty good. It just goes off the line like you wer leaving the line normally, then starts to get the boost up to about the 5psi, then shifts. There is no possible was this thing would spin the tires even if it was wet out. But i dont know why it wouldnt boost very high. I did do a compression test today, and all cylinders hit 145. The driver side seemed to all hit 145 a lot faster than the pass. side did. It took a good couple seconds longer of cranking to get it up to 145 where it wouldnt go any farther. They all seemed to lose about 20psi on comp. in about a minute. One other thing that NEEDS to get mentioned on here is that the plugs were BLACK as can be. I beleive that means its running hog ass rich.

As to the actuator. I honestly dont know if it is good, because the rod is solid as can be. I cant move it in or out by hand at all. The puck is slammed shut like I said though, because I checked it today.

The turbo is a t-33, but it has a te-61 center section. Dont know if that helps any or not.

I bought the turbo, chip and injectors off of a guy close to me, and the chip does say 36lb blue tops on the back. It is also a thrasher chip, and I dont know if it could have a setting in it that is doing something, like too much fuel. I honestly dont know.

ANY IDEAS, COUGH'EM UP!!!!! :D
 
fbodlovr said:
I bought the turbo, chip and injectors off of a guy close to me, and the chip does say 36lb blue tops on the back. It is also a thrasher chip, and I dont know if it could have a setting in it that is doing something, like too much fuel. I honestly dont know.

ANY IDEAS, COUGH'EM UP!!!!! :D

Thrasher chips have to have fuel pressure set @ 45 line off
 
SLOW_85 said:
Thrasher chips have to have fuel pressure set @ 45 line off

Is that for all thrasher chips? I have the thrasher 92. 45 with the line off is definitely higher than what I have now.

I just got off the phone with a guy off of this site, and he said it definitely sounds like the ignition coil is bad. It makes sense though becuase the plugs were super black, and he said its probably just not able to ignite all of the fuel and thats the cause of all the power loss. HOPE TO GOD this ignition coil and module works.

Keep the suggestions coming because you NEVER Know whether it will work or not. :)
 
None of you would have an 86 87 stock chip for 36lb injectors, would you??? JUST to see if it may be the chip that could be causing problems. I think it has to be that, the ignition coil/module, or the puck just not seating all the way. The way the plugs are looking though, it makes me wonder if its not burning hot enough, like the coil/module is bad.
 
Everything you are describing is something I dealt with for a year. I ended up getting a used chip off a guy for my combo(that was proven to work) and putting a 86/87 MAF in the car(was running the stock MAF). And instantly I had to up my fuel pressure to 43 line off. I was also running it at 28 with line off without knock, because it was throwing so much fuel at the car. Do you have raw fuel spitting out the tailpipes? Black spots on the ground? My chip guy told me it wasn't the chip........it was the chip. So, I got a 86/87 chip for my 40# and then got a 86/87 MAF and she was good to go.
Sounds like your chip is good though. What MAF should you be running with that chip? I would get a 86/87 MAF if your still running the stocker. Try and find someone close to you that could loan you their coil/module. Sucks throwing money at these cars for nothing. :mad:
-Nick.
 
Well, ive got all the coil stuff needed to change over to the 86 87, except for the module which will be here today or tomorrow. The MAF is the 84 still, that is one thing I do need to change. I would just rather go the ls1 maf, with a new intake, and translator if Im going to switch. If it ends up being that, i would crap myself.

You guys wouldnt know anyone that would have a maf, and maybe a chip I could borrow do you that are both known to be good? I would pay for shipping here, and back to them. I just want to see if it works.
 
fbodlovr said:
............ You guys wouldnt know anyone that would have a maf, and maybe a chip I could borrow do you that are both known to be good? I would pay for shipping here, and back to them. I just want to see if it works.
Updating the location in your profile may get better responses and assist.
 
Might be able to help you.

fbodlovr said:
You guys wouldnt know anyone that would have a maf, and maybe a chip I could borrow do you that are both known to be good? I would pay for shipping here, and back to them. I just want to see if it works.

Give me a call tonight.
 
I put on an 86-87 MAF that I borrowed off of Sam tonight, and that really got rid of the running rich problem. Before I could only run at about 28 pounds max. Now I can sit at about 48 line off at idle, and 40 line on at idle with no problems, and actually get it to rev up all the way. I took the car out, and it does rev up higher while driving and being under load, but the turbo didnt get above 8 psi this time. What are your thoughts now???? Maybe the puck now on the turbo not seating all the way??????????
 
Do you have every vacuum line and boosted lines hooked up right?
Do you have an adjustable wastegate? If so is the rod shortened to where you have to pull the rod 1/4 inch out and slide it on the wastegate arm? How are you controlling boost? Stock solenoid? Tuner style, just a line from the turbo port to the wastegate? Do you have the stock "y" fitting in place right?
Any exhaust leaks before the turbo?
What type of air filter?(I had an old cone filter that would suck shut on me, had to run it without a filter to know that it was that) Are you running the stock maf pipe, the black plastic thing? Very rare but they will suck shut.
If you have no exhaust leaks and you are running an adj. wastegate the way I described. Everything seems to be in place and correct. You may want to look at running a manual boost controller. I had to run one to get my car to hold boost. Or you may look at borrowing a wastegate to see if yours may have went south. It should be hard to pull out and should only come out like 1/2 inch, I believe.
You have a CAT on that beast? Stock? If so, junk it!!! Or unhook it almost all the way and see if that helps, could be clogged!!!
Oh ya, you have an aftermarket boost gauge? ;)
Good to hear the MAF has cleared up the running rich problem. -Nick. :cool:
 
maf

are you sure your gauges are right? if you're running an analog dash the bar readout tach and boost gauge are highly inaccurate after 20 some odd years. mine shows 3000 rpm at 2500 and that i idle at like 1500.
 
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