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???'s On Replacing Heads Gaskets While In The Car...

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Yankee John

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
543
Ok, Due to being a dumb ass, I now have to replace the head gaskets with the engine still in the car. I'll be doing this Thurs & Friday in my driveway. I have a couple of quick questions about the install....

I'm using Felpro #9441pt Perma torque headgaskets. Do these need any kind of spray sealer to stand up in our cars?

I heard something abour some sort of "tablet" that GM sells that is recommended on the forum?

Also, Do the headers have to be completely removed from the car, Or can I just undo them from the heads?

Lastly, Do I have to completely remove the fuel rail/injectors from the intake manifold, Or can I still get the intake off with them on the manifold?

I'm taking this oppertunity to install my Champion iron heads, TA49 turbo, 220 amp alternator, & TT chip as well.


If there are any other tips/tricks that you this will be helpful to me- Please post them!!

Thanks!

John
 
Ok, Due to being a dumb ass, I now have to replace the head gaskets with the engine still in the car. I'll be doing this Thurs & Friday in my driveway. I have a couple of quick questions about the install....

I'm using Felpro #9441pt Perma torque headgaskets. Do these need any kind of spray sealer to stand up in our cars?

I heard something abour some sort of "tablet" that GM sells that is recommended on the forum?

Also, Do the headers have to be completely removed from the car, Or can I just undo them from the heads?

Lastly, Do I have to completely remove the fuel rail/injectors from the intake manifold, Or can I still get the intake off with them on the manifold?

I'm taking this oppertunity to install my Champion iron heads, TA49 turbo, 220 amp alternator, & TT chip as well.


If there are any other tips/tricks that you this will be helpful to me- Please post them!!

Thanks!

John

You need to have sealer and lube on the head bolts. I got some teflon sealer at NAPA. You don't need the tabs unless after your finished you have a water leak. I had one last HG I did and just used some silver powder radiator sealer. Took care of it. Sounds like regular old Felpro head gaskets. If I'm correct, no spray is needed. You don't have to remove the fuel rails. Just remove the whole intake as a unit. You don't have to remove your headers. I swung my turbo out of the way and left it all hanging there, but you're replacing yours. Have an assortment of adapters, short and deep sockets for torqueing the head bolts near the AC/heater box. I torque them 60lbs., 70lbs., then finally 80lbs. Not sure if that's the hot setup but I'm sure I'll be informed if it's not. :D
 
Thanks for the info John!!!

Quick question- Do I use the sealer on all of the headbolts, or just some of them? (FYI I'm using ARP replacement headbolts).

Thanks again!

John
 
Your sealer is the typical teflon, white, goo. You'll also need some Ultra-Black RTV to re-install the intake manifold - use this stuff to seal the front and rear edge of the manifold (and to seal the head/block/manifold corners). You can clean the head bolt threads with a wire toothbrush, run a 3/8 tap through the holds to clean those.
 
All of them. I prefer Loctite 567 or the GM stuff.

+1 Loctite 567
Also new studs or head bolts, recomend studs that are made by ARP.
You will need a 7/16-14 thread tap to clean all the old thread sealer out of the head mounting holes in the block(not a 3/8-16 tap). The new intake gasket by felpro includes the sealant needed for installing the intake gasket.
Your new ARP studs should come with a lube for installing the heads, use this only when installing the heads. In other words the Loctite 567 is for the side of the stud that goes into the block 7/16-14 thread. And after the heads are on use the arp polly lube on the threads and also both sides of the flat washer, just a small amount will do.
I torque the bolts full cycle 4 times on the 1st time using new ARP bolt/studs, then on your final torque down cycle let the engine sit overnight at say 70 ft/lbs then the next morning go your last 5-10 ft/lbs. Here is a link http://www.turbobuicks.com/articles/HeadStuds/

Chuck
 
6/3/2010

Well guys, Here is how the GN looks today. I haven't gotten very far- mainly due to 6-7 day work weeks, And a bunch of "honey do's" when I do have a day off.

I got the intake and the valve covers off today. I've decided to have a few bits and pieces powdercoated too- Might as well clean it up a bit under the hood while I'm in there. I won't get too carried away, or I'll never get it back together!!!

Thanks again for all of your advice!!

John
 

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On another subject....when you put your turbo back on use studs for the oil return line instead of the original bolts ...it makes assembly much easier.
 
Great idea Ray! Last year when I changed that leaking drainback tube gasket- I had one HELL of a time getting the bolts back in!

Here is a pic of a little bit of "bling" I'm going to be putting on the motor- I recently bought these here on the board. I have them sitting here by my computer- for inspiration!!

John

On another subject....when you put your turbo back on use studs for the oil return line instead of the original bolts ...it makes assembly much easier.
 

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I'm pretty sure they are factory valve covers, available over-the-counter from Buick at one time.

John
 
Those were offered by Kirban about 9ish years ago. Originally they had a black wrinkle finish with the BUICK MOTORSPORTS logo showing a semi-polished/brushed finish. I think they would have been a lot more popular if they had been made tall enough to clear roller rockers.
 
Just an update folks- The heads are off!!!! Between work and the weather, I haven't had a whole lot of time to devote to my GN.

Before I yanked the heads off, I soaked the engine compartment with Super Clean, then pressure washed it. There was a TON of caked-on grease in there!!!!

John
 

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question I see you have a different cam is it in yet? now would be a good time to do it, or did I miss something:rolleyes:
 
When I blew my head gasket I pulled front cover and replaced timing chain and water pump just cause I was there. It was a good thing I did the stock timing chain gear had a major chack in it. would have been just a matter of time.
 
update 7/3/2010

Wow- I got a lot of stuff done since my last update! Here are some pics of my progress so far (sorry for the quality of my cell phone pics).

John
 

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you're going to need to drop the oil pan and clean it and the oil pickup of all the nasty stringy composite gasket that left the gasket from #6 cylinder into the valley
 
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