scanmaster numbers - what next?

[DOUGGN]

Just hooked up my scanmaster this weekend and took the car for a test drive. I am new to turbo buicks and need some help on what it all means - good and bad. I have read quite a few threads about scanmaster numbers but I'm not sure what to make of mine.

I warmed the car up - made a pull and then came home and wrote down what the meter showed sitting at idle in the driveway.

my car is a basically stock 87 GN - has larger exhaust and downpipe with a hi-flow cat. The previous owner said it had some kind of chip - but not sure what it is. I have an autometer boost and egt gauge.

here is what the gauges/scanmaster showed:

af - 04
l8 - 31
bat - 13.2
int - 131
bl - 150
mph - 00
clt - 190
ats - 128
r - 725
tps - .48
iac - 04
cc - 185
mal - 00

when I hit the recall button it showed 652 7.0

my boost gauge hit 13 psi

my egt gauge hit 1200

It seems like it had to pull timing and that seems like a lot to me????

the bl, tps and the iac also seem out of line.

thanks, for the help

 

[UDLOSE]

you are running a little lean at 650mv, thats why you had 7 degrees of knock. what fuelpump, wiring, injectors? also your blm is high, vac leak maybe? tps is a little high should be .42 to .46, i like .44. also iac is to low

 

[turb0buick57]

Welcome to turbo buicks. To get some of your scanmaster numbers correct your going to have to adjust your tps sensor and iac. If you search you may find the adjustment procedure, i have off hand
IAC Reset Procedure
Adjusting the TPS

Also, your going to need to know or find out the answers to the questions udlose asked. Its good to put your general city or state location in your profile, their might be some good guys local who can help you out with the car which is a lot easier than over the computer.

 

[DOUGGN]

I am near troy missouri (st louis area) - not sure how to get that to show by profile info.

 

[DOUGGN]

you are running a little lean at 650mv, thats why you had 7 degrees of knock. what fuelpump, wiring, injectors? also your blm is high, vac leak maybe? tps is a little high should be .42 to .46, i like .44. also iac is to low

I am all stock - as far as I know. Several people have already told me I need to upgrade the fuel pump and hot wire it. Any suggestions on finding a vac leak? everything looks in good condition - no hard rubber lines etc. Also the car pulls nice vacuum at idle - with a vac leak wouldn't that show up in the vac reading?

 

[speedskills]

Like stated above fix Tps and iac first. Propane gas around vaccuum hoses will make the car stutter if you have a leak. There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum and if your handy with a wrench you'll learn a ton by asking questions and doin the work yourself. Also do a search for spring cleaning since you just bought the car and don't know what's been done. Get it running right then upgrade later. Be easy on it till you get rid of your knock(timing retard) problem.

 

[speedskills]

Like stated above fix Tps and iac first. Propane gas around vaccuum hoses will make the car stutter if you have a leak. There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum and if your handy with a wrench you'll learn a ton by asking questions and doin the work yourself. Also do a search for spring cleaning since you just bought the car and don't know what's been done. Get it running right then upgrade later. Be easy on it till you get rid of your knock(timing retard) problem. There's a girl in St louis that I would let teach me anytime. Maybe she'll chime in.

 

[DOUGGN]

I will fix those items this weekend. Do you know exactly what is occuring when the bl is 150?

Any and all help is much appreciated!

 

[speedskills]

Block learn is the long term learning by your ECU. A blm of 150 means your ECU is constantly compensating for a lean condition by adding fuel.

 

[TurboDave]

Most common causes for and extremely high BLM is a vacuum leak, or pre turbo exhuast leak.

 

[DOUGGN]

Most common causes for and extremely high BLM is a vacuum leak, or pre turbo exhuast leak.

Is the cause for the lean condition a fuel supply issue or the fact that a vacuum leak may exist? If I have an exhaust leak - should I be able to hear it? I know what an exhaust leak sounds like on a regular car - would this be similar? If I adjust the other two conditions and bring them into the norm is it possible that it will have an effect on the blm as well?

 

[TurboDave]

Is the cause for the lean condition a fuel supply issue or the fact that a vacuum leak may exist? If I have an exhaust leak - should I be able to hear it? I know what an exhaust leak sounds like on a regular car - would this be similar? If I adjust the other two conditions and bring them into the norm is it possible that it will have an effect on the blm as well?

You may not always hear an exhaust leak. Could be a header crack, crossover crack, etc.
Exhaust leaks introduce air into the exhaust stream and the O2 then thinks the car is running leaner that it is, and the BLM will usually shoot up to 150.
Same for vacuum leaks. Air entering the engine that the maf isn't seeing. Car thinks it's leaner.

Usually not a fuel delivery issue, UNLESS, your fuel pressure is ABNORMALLY low. I mean really low.

Set your fuel pressure to 42# (vacuum line off). If that doesn't get your BLM more normal, then your issue is likely one of the above.

 

[DOUGGN]

You may not always hear an exhaust leak. Could be a header crack, crossover crack, etc.
Exhaust leaks introduce air into the exhaust stream and the O2 then thinks the car is running leaner that it is, and the BLM will usually shoot up to 150.
Same for vacuum leaks. Air entering the engine that the maf isn't seeing. Car thinks it's leaner.

Usually not a fuel delivery issue, UNLESS, your fuel pressure is ABNORMALLY low. I mean really low.

Set your fuel pressure to 42# (vacuum line off). If that doesn't get your BLM more normal, then your issue is likely one of the above.

My car is still the stock non adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I will get a gauge to see what the pressure is. What is too low where I know I need to change the regulator?

 

[TurboDave]

My car is still the stock non adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I will get a gauge to see what the pressure is. What is too low where I know I need to change the regulator?

With a stock regulator, you should see something in the low 30's with the vacuum line on, and in the high 30's vacuum line off.

 

[DOUGGN]

I plan on looking into this stuff this weekend - I will report back what I find.

thanks everyone!

 

[DOUGGN]

I adjusted the car today. IAC was 4 - IAC now shows 20-30 at idle. TPS was way off - was .48 at idle 3.95 at WOT. TPS now shows .46 at idle and 4.56 at WOT. It took a long time to get this right at idle and WOT. I tried to find vacuum leaks with a propane torch but could not find anything. I did find one vacuum line that may be suspect. The line that comes from the hobbs switch to the larger steel line has a tear on the big end. Does anyone know where to get the factory style junctions that go on the end of the small vac line and step up to the larger steel line? My BL still is 150

I guess 2 out of three so far is progress

thanks all!

DOUG

 

[DOUGGN]

With a stock regulator, you should see something in the low 30's with the vacuum line on, and in the high 30's vacuum line off.

Turbo Dave - I installed the racetronix hotwire and fuel pump kit today. My fuel pressure at idle went to around 30 - 32. With the vac line off it was around 38. I took it for a couple runs - the o2 reading was up to around 750 and it registered 0 retard most of the times (couple showed 1 or 2 deg) It was a hot and humid day today. I also noticed that the BL at idle now shows about 120 - 130 instead of the steady 150 it had been running. I guess I'm making progress. I'm thinking maybe turbo tweak chip next?:biggrin:

 

[TurboDave]

With that upgrade, and adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be a good next step.