getdowngranny
Mr. Fix It
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selecting a cam and valvetrain for my build
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Let me save you the trouble,keep your ported iron heads and follow the posts above about valve springs and proper converter selection . you will save alot of time and money.
forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
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So you know exactly what it takes.
getdowngranny
Mr. Fix It
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I know. I have given the OP plenty of advice in the past to try to get his previous combo up to potential but he is doing a build without maximizing his gains on his old setup. Let alone getting to learn his car before taking it apart. So, I figured he just wants to spend some money. I know that his previous combo would get him to his current goals. I'm just saying that my opinion is, if you want to throw some money at the car, why not spend it on heads over a cam that really won't net you much gains.
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You must have some kind of e.t. goal. Based on that you can come up with a mph and determine the power needed at your weight and select parts to work at those areas. Most small hyd cam engines with 3 bolt turbos will be fastest with -12 to 0 overlap at .050" the lower the CR the less overlap. Converter flash rpm from 5000 to 5500 typically. If you want to break records you have to think way outside the box. Otherwise you can go with proven stuff and have reliable power.
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Irons or aluminum?
getdowngranny
Mr. Fix It
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Stock 8445 iron unported heads. Valve job, smooth stem valves, and guides cut for roller cam. So pretty much stock.
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This comment seems patronizing as if you are doing me a favor by discouraging me from building a motor. I came here to learn about the things I would like to do with the car, not enjoy it to the standards of another member, and even if that were the case, I'm not sure what "learning" you expect me to do with the car. I didnt buy this car to cruise into parking lots on a Saturday morning and hang out with a group of baby boomers in Tommy Bahama shirts. The only reason I have this car is for its ability to deceive people into a race under the guise that aa full interior car with a nearly 30 year old V6 may not be competitive. I'm not interested in running a high 9/low 10. I'm interested in replicating the process over and over and over again, and if you can sleep at night beating the hell out of your car with stock internals, have at it. With that said, I appreciate all of your attempts to convince me of one thing or another, but I generally make posts looking for information based on the question I have listed in the title. If an interesting comment is left, and I want to delve into that subject, I will ask, but other than that, I don't need people posting complaints about why I won't build my car to their standards.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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OK, upgrading your rotating assembly to forged parts is a good move for reliability's sake. That leaves cam, heads, turbo and converter selection. It might have been better to wait for choosing the turbo until a cam/head decisions had been made but that's done. Makes sense to consult Bison with the c/r, springs and cam selection to go with those iron heads (if you insist on using them). Probably need to cc the heads to get a handle on c/r. Maybe the cam you have can be used. He can help you with the converter selection too. Not sure if anything has to be done to those billet caps to match the new rotating assembly. That's another question as well.
getdowngranny
Mr. Fix It
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No one is patronizing you. If you read a few posts back I did give you advice on cam selection. Tell me how you want to deceive people into racing with your GN when a few threads ago you wanted to do a fender exit exhaust...???? Have fun with your build. Again, I would keep the current cam you have for your goals. You will learn very fast that it doesn't matter how much money you spend on the build when beating on the car over and over. They all eventually break. Most of the times it is due to the lack of knowledge either on the build or the tune. Either way, the advice is here on this forum wether or not you decide to use it.
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This isn't my first go around. I understand that things break and will need rebuilding. As far as a fender exit is concerned, that is a moot point in the topic of grudge racing or this thread. Id prefer to stay on topic if you dont mind. Thank you for your input, however.
hensleyt
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this is the first time Ive seen someone give up # on a cam in relation to CR
Iron heads like lower CR than aluminum .What is your CR?
I have a DLS 210-210 and a FT 206-210 both have gone 11.8 , much slower than your 9.9 target ,210-210 is 2 mph faster and I'm working on the tune to get the 60 ft better but tack is closed for repaving
Each have been to 6200 rpm and felt strong (by accident) I believe we come to a point where we have more lift than the iron head can flow.
Many 9.9 cars but no cam #s in there SIG ,at that ET its got to be hard to stay ahead of the next guy
I think your 206-206 is the better chose with irons over 214-214 ,unless they have been ported by someone that knows irons
I have been in some really fast 109 cars with iron/aluminum heads.both can be built with plenty of compression.
mid 10's
iron head is not maxed on either one of those cams.if your running the 58mm turbo in your sig it will run out way before 6200 on either cam with iron heads.
The drive pressure is of major concern when looking at the cam. The duration at .050" doesn't really matter. Knowing the lobe numbers so the approximate open and close can be determined is important. Overlap at .050", the actual CR, and the drive pressure will let you know where you are. 99.9% of people that post or even have the fastest of the fast cars don't know exactly what the cam is doing in their engine. The only ones excluded would be the ones that spec and assemble everything themselves. What is duration @ .050" is equal on two cams but one has 10* more duration at .200" and 4* at .300 if the exhaust pressure to intake ratio is high? What if the ratio is favorable? I know which cam id rather have if my valvetrain is up for it.
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