Setting cam Sensor

[hamer]

I got the casper electronics cam setting tool. i understand most of it but could someone whos used it before brek it done for me in simpler terms. What do i gotta remvove to get to the sensor, then just follow the casper instructions? It says its for 84-87 3.8 turbo motors so i guess the procedure is the same? what is the easiest way to turn the motor? does the key need be in acc.?
as always help is appreciated

 

[6SENSE]

Originally posted by hamer
I got the casper electronics cam setting tool. i understand most of it but could someone whos used it before brek it done for me in simpler terms. What do i gotta remvove to get to the sensor, then just follow the casper instructions? It says its for 84-87 3.8 turbo motors so i guess the procedure is the same? what is the easiest way to turn the motor? does the key need be in acc.?
as always help is appreciated

It might be easier to have the coil/mod out of the way, but I dont think its neccessary, cant remember without looking at the car. Basically you just need to get to the cam sensor holddown bolt with a socket (9/16 I think) and long extension to loosen it, so you are able to rotate the sensor. No need to have ignition on. Then Follow the instructions. You will need to rotate the harmonic balance to where it needs to go (1-1/8" socket). It needs to be at 25 deg ATDC, or 1.45"; I usually put it at about 1-7/16" if I dont have the means to measure exactly 1.45". Use measured piece of masking tape taped to the balancer (beginning at the notch) and turn till your 25 degree mark on the masking tape is at 0 on the timing tab. Then with the cam sensor tool plugged into it, rotate the cam sensor a 1/4 turn clockwise, and then counterclockwise until it just lights the LED on the tool, as the instructions indicate.

 

[hamer]

cool sounds easier than i thought and the cam tool came with premeasured stickers for 25 ATDC. thanks man

 

[hamer]

DONE! only took like a little over an hour.just in case anyone is wondering, I did remove the coil pack and i also disconnected the fuel line from the bottom of the FP reg to get that nut back there. So my cam sensor is now set Properly. Anyone know of a tool to use on the crank sensor or is that just remove/replace item? how do you know its bad, or going bad?

 

[6SENSE]

Originally posted by hamer
DONE! only took like a little over an hour.just in case anyone is wondering, I did remove the coil pack and i also disconnected the fuel line from the bottom of the FP reg to get that nut back there. So my cam sensor is now set Properly. Anyone know of a tool to use on the crank sensor or is that just remove/replace item? how do you know its bad, or going bad?

If it was bad I dont think your car would start up.
If just replacing the sensor itself (black plastic piece with wires/plug coming from it) you loosen the long bolt that goes through it to keep it in place (from the bottom of the aluminum bracket). If your replacing the whole assembly (sensor and bracket) there are two front cover bolts that need to come loose. Its pretty much just remove/replace...........however, youve got to make sure the metal ring on the balancer when going through the sensor doesnt touch it on either side, so you will need to adjust the sensor by loosening the long bolt that holds it tight to the bracket so it can move (dont overtighten this bolt). You can use a feeler guage. Im sure there is a spec for how many thousandths, but it really isnt critical (some people just use a thin piece of cardboard). The ring just needs to go freely through the sensor without touching (on either side) and you'll be fine. If it is touching you will hear it. It will make a ticking sound. It could eventually brake the plastic sensor if left this way.

 

[hamer]

"ticking"? I got a ticking sound now thats why i been doin this stuff, I rebuilt the turbo cause thats where it sounded like it was comin from, then I set the cam sensor cause somewhere else i read if its bad youll hear a ticking. Now, the crank sensor sets the spark timing correct? The car started to start funny after i bought it. sometimes it just "bam" starts right up like as soon as i turn key other times it winds up for a sec and the worst is when it seems like it turns over forever before starting. BUT IT ALWAYS STARTS. I was wondering if the crank sensor had somthin to do with this? Where about is it located? does it look like the cam sensor? Ill take a look for it tommorow. Thanks

 

[6SENSE]

Crank sensor is at the bottom of the front cover behind the harmonic balance, on the driver's side of the crank.

Question: how many miles on this motor, and when was the last time it had a timing chain replaced? The way you describe the car starting sounds like a loose timing chain to me. Which could also make a tapping/ticking noise if it were loose enough to slap the inside of the front cover. If it is the timing chain, dont wait till it skips time. Its possible that you will bend valves if this happens.
Take the cap off the cam sensor and turn the crank slowly and see if the cam sensor moves immediately with the crank. If it catches on late, that is an indication that the chain is loose.
The sound that the crank sensor makes is from the ring on the harmonic balance hitting it. Its not a very loud sound, more of a tick-tick-tick sound. It would definately be traceable to the front of the engine. I doubt it would resonate to the back of the engine like how you described the sound did to make you believe it was the turbo. A very loose timing chain slapping the cover could though. Im not by any means ruling out the crank sensor, just trying to let you know the possibilities from what you described. The crank sensor would definately be a quicker fix.

 

[hamer]

i got the turbo back on today and started the car. started right up. The tick is still there. When I set the cam sensor, i did remove the cover and it moved exactly in tune when i was turning the crank. BUT i had my machinest stethoscope out there and it DEFINATELY is coming from the driver side valve cover. Thats wheere it was the loudest anyway. I stuck the scope on the cylinder head by the #5 plug and real faint could here it. I also put it to the injectors on DR side and they were all ticing a little probly normal? but i could really hear it in the valve cover area.
also i held the throttle steady, and the ping was in tune with the exhaust from back. when the tick would stop the exhaust sorta backfired a very little and seem to change tone but when the tick started the exhaust sounded different. does this make any sense???? Im guess its the exhaust valve in the #5 cylinder but it could be sumthin else. I gonna lookm at the crank sensor tomorow and HOPEFULLY itll be that cause 2 weeks without my buick so far is suckin . talk aboput a major setback. OH yeah the guy i got it from said the motor and trans both were rebuilt 10,000 mi ago. Im guessin he did it himself, the motor not trans it was painted yellow on top and i confirmed with another local that one shop in partiular does that to show they did it. Thanks for the help so far man