Shifter cable needed. Anyone use Gbody parts one?

[TireFryer]

I've recently "rebuilt" the engine in my WH1, and the thing runs great. Afr's right at 10.6 at wot. The car is only at 8 psi right now as I was chasing down a lean condition. But I have started to notice some things about the car. When I start the car cold, it sounds perfect and doesn't smoke or anything. But, as it warms up and gets to temp, there is a ticking sound that starts. Its NOT a lifter I'm 99% sure of that. And if i say stop to get gas, then start it back up hot, it blows a bunch of white/blue smoke then goes away. I've read that can be caused by a bad turbo, valve guides being worn and... a blown head gasket.. I hear that an exhaust leak can sound like a tick as can a blown head gasket. I dont believe its an exhaust leak... ive checked all the bolts and gaskets. i would hate to hurt the motor as it really does run strong. Any thoughts or ideas? I really don't want to do head gaskets again... There is no oil in the radiator or coolant in the oil. Engine "rebuild specs" in sig.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[TireFryer]

 

[broke]

Any smoke out of the valve cover breathers, have you done a compression test? Any air bubbles in coolant while running?

 

[TireFryer]

No smoke out the breathers, all cylinders around are within 5 psi, lowest being 135, highest being 140. No air bubbles that i can tell, as the car runs right at 180 (i have a 180 thermostat)

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Blown head gasket or an exhaust leak will sound like a tick.

 

[mikestertwo]

No smoke out the breathers, all cylinders around are within 5 psi, lowest being 135, highest being 140. No air bubbles that i can tell, as the car runs right at 180 (i have a 180 thermostat)

Compression seems a little low for a rebuilt motor?

 

[TireFryer]

Compression seems a little low for a rebuilt motor?

It’s a stock bottom end... I just put a new front cam bearing and cam and lifters (stock grind cam) and head gaskets... the heads are untouched other than 90# springs.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

It’s a stock bottom end... I just put a new front cam bearing and cam and lifters (stock grind cam) and head gaskets... the heads are untouched other than 90# springs.

You said you had a lean condition. How much KR did the engine see, and how often. I think you know why I'm asking.

 

[T-type Jones]

Check your Turbo, that's a easy check. Take off your downpipe from the Turbo side and look to see if you have oil around or between the downpipe and Turbo, or at least that's what I did when I discovered I had a bad bearing on mines

 

[KC87]

Just because they are new lifters doesn't mean one couldn't be bad. Wasn't there a problem going around a while back with some hydraulic lifters being of very poor quality. In the old days draining a quart of oil out and putting a quart of transmission fluid in would often work for a sticky lifter.
You say it runs great so maybe just drive it easy and the problem may expose itself a bit more to figure out or even straighten itself out on it'sown.

 

[TexasT]

What manifolds/headers are you running? If they are stock I would put my money on a crack and leak.

 

[TireFryer]

You said you had a lean condition. How much KR did the engine see, and how often. I think you know why I'm asking.

I haven’t ever seen KR ever in a powerlogger run or the scan master. The lean condition was fixed with a new maf. Like I said I haven’t ever gone past 8-9 psi

 

[TireFryer]

What manifolds/headers are you running? If they are stock I would put my money on a crack and leak.

They are stock... When I pulled them off the drivers side had already been welded in the spot where they crack. I went through and checked both of them for cracks. I’m also using exhaust header gaskets?

 

[Mr.Spool]

I've recently "rebuilt" the engine in my WH1, and the thing runs great. Afr's right at 10.6 at wot. The car is only at 8 psi right now as I was chasing down a lean condition. But I have started to notice some things about the car. When I start the car cold, it sounds perfect and doesn't smoke or anything. But, as it warms up and gets to temp, there is a ticking sound that starts. Its NOT a lifter I'm 99% sure of that. And if i say stop to get gas, then start it back up hot, it blows a bunch of white/blue smoke then goes away. I've read that can be caused by a bad turbo, valve guides being worn and... a blown head gasket.. I hear that an exhaust leak can sound like a tick as can a blown head gasket. I dont believe its an exhaust leak... ive checked all the bolts and gaskets. i would hate to hurt the motor as it really does run strong. Any thoughts or ideas? I really don't want to do head gaskets again... There is no oil in the radiator or coolant in the oil. Engine "rebuild specs" in sig.

Thanks for any advice.

leak the motor down,then do a cold comp test and then a hot one

 

[TireFryer]

Any special leakdown tester?

 

[TireFryer]

Comp test cold


1, 138
3, 135
5, 140

2, 136
4, 138
6, 136

Seems about right with a stock cam?

 

[TireFryer]

I almost don’t wonder if it’s the exhaust... because before I took the engine apart it didn’t have that noise, and you can’t hear it unless you go under the car, and it’s had it since i started it to break in the cam... I’m going to try tightening the headers and loosening the crossover and moving it a little. If I didn’t say, it only ticks when the engine is hot

 

[Mr.Spool]

Comp test cold


1, 138
3, 135
5, 140

2, 136
4, 138
6, 136

Seems about right with a stock cam?

Do the other 2 tests

 

[Jerryl]

I almost don’t wonder if it’s the exhaust... because before I took the engine apart it didn’t have that noise, and you can’t hear it unless you go under the car, and it’s had it since i started it to break in the cam... I’m going to try tightening the headers and loosening the crossover and moving it a little. If I didn’t say, it only ticks when the engine is hot

What's your hot idle BLM?

 

[TireFryer]

What's your hot idle BLM?

118 because of dw300 and no return line. 42 psi line on.