Anyone know what the sings of a pass key problem on the TTA is? I've just installed the motor back in the car and it won't turn over. Theres no fuel pressure building and not dask lites come on when in the accessory position. Could this be a sign of a bad key cylinder?
Signs of Pass Key Problems on TTA
- Thread starter Jas89TTA
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Jan Larsson
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- Nov 22, 2001
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Could be, what you can do is get a resistor with the same value as the "chip" (actually a resistor) in your key then under the dash just disconnect the connector that goes up to the ignition key and put the resistor in there that way you will always have the correct "key" when you try starting your car.
You need to know what wire goes to the ignition key, there's 2 yellow wires with a grey (or possibly black) connector to look forcoming down from the steering column.
You need to know what wire goes to the ignition key, there's 2 yellow wires with a grey (or possibly black) connector to look forcoming down from the steering column.
The VATS wont allow cranking, but everything else will work.
You can bypass the vats by jumping the VATS module, if your key has issues.. the security light will come on.
My VATS took a dump while racing the car in BG.. I did the above.. worked.
I wont post whats involved in bypassing the VATS.. you'll need to call me for that info.. or have an electrical manual on the car.
Jan good tip on the resistor thing..
You can bypass the vats by jumping the VATS module, if your key has issues.. the security light will come on.
My VATS took a dump while racing the car in BG.. I did the above.. worked.
I wont post whats involved in bypassing the VATS.. you'll need to call me for that info.. or have an electrical manual on the car.
Jan good tip on the resistor thing..
Jan Larsson
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2001
- Messages
- 2,151
Sometimes what happens is age (turning the ignition on off) breaks the cable in the ignition lock so the resistor thing is a quick and easy test if the rest of the VATS system works that is.
So everthing will lite up on the dash even with a vats problem? I'll have to get the service manual from helms for the car tomorrow. What's so strange is is when I turn the key to the accessory position just the brake lite lites up on the dash no other idiot lites. My boost guage on the cluster goes up to 10 and the tack just to about 300 RPMs and the blower motor will not turn on the fuel pump don't turn on and there no fuel pressure building up in the rail. I have a scanmaster pluged in and it comes on but will not give readings like it use to like for TPS and such it's just goes blank. I'm confused on what I could have done when putting the motor back in. I can use a screwdriver on the starter and the motor turns over. There's power to the starter on all the wires going to it and the fuseible link under there seems to be fine. The only thing electrial I did was swap ECM's for one I got off a board member here thats been modified for 72# injectors It was off a GN but there the same part number and I even swaped the cal pack because it was a different number than the one in my ecm. I had a chip burnt by Eric at turbotweak. I've even tried my old emc and chip I had and it still does the same. Thanks, Jason
I found some missing grounds today and that fix the no start problem. Now motor turns over now but still will run. I found out I have no injector pulse to the injectors. I tested the harness today with a noid lite and got nothing. Any ideas on what it could be? Bad ecm or chip? The ecm is a modded one I got from a board member here along with his 72# injectors and I had a chip done for my car by turbotweak. Also what's the small cal-pack chip in the ecm for? The modded ecm I got was used in a GN when I received it the cal-pack numbers were different so I put the one that was in my TTA ecm into the modded ecm. Should I swap it back? I just was not sure if the GN and TTA cal-pack was the same. Thanks, Jason
No injectors is either problem with your cam sensor or crank sensor typically.
I would have you test your cam sensor with a voltmeter and when you spin the motor over see if it pulses.
Check your plug on the crank sensor..
If your ECM is working.. the scanmaster will give you data when the ignition is turned on. Like TPS, ATS, CLT, etc..
See if your tach moves when cranking it over?
Wire your scanmaster to direct power and see if the RPM shows as it cranks.
Did you plug the ECM power connector by the battery?
Keep at it..
I would have you test your cam sensor with a voltmeter and when you spin the motor over see if it pulses.
Check your plug on the crank sensor..
If your ECM is working.. the scanmaster will give you data when the ignition is turned on. Like TPS, ATS, CLT, etc..
See if your tach moves when cranking it over?
Wire your scanmaster to direct power and see if the RPM shows as it cranks.
Did you plug the ECM power connector by the battery?
Keep at it..
Ok, I got my TTA service manual in finally. According to the trouble tree it's pointing to the crank sensor. I'm gonna try to replace it this week-end and I hope that's the problem. BTW the reluctor ring goes thru the groove farthest from the connector, right? I can't belive I've been having this much trouble getting the car running. It was all fine when I pulled the motor out and since I put it back in I found a bad theft deterant relay, bad fuel pump relay, and now a possible crank sensor :frown: and of course my dumb a$$ forgeting about the grounds I forgot to hook up :redface: Thanks for all the help, I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks, Jason
