slow batterie drain need help


Oct 31, 2008
ok guys heres the deal..after buying my car i notice the batterie was always low so i replaced the alternator,after still having the same issue i replaced the batterie and still the same problem:confused: . if i dont start the car in a couple of weeks the batterie will die. i did a search on the subject an found that alot of people recommend removing the fan relay. witch i have done today i also checked my hood and drunk bulb and they do turn off when you close them both..does anybody have any more ideas, i dont think it was the relay switch cause it looked new i even opened it and it was all nice and clean with no moisture
thanks ellis but i dont have a stock radio nor does it stay on with the keys off the switch
Buy a test light and disconnect the positive cable from the battery. Place the test light leads between the positive post of the battery and the now disconnected positive cable. The light should be lit if you have a draw on the battery, start pulling fuses until the light goes out and go from there.
When you do the draw test, pull out the trunk bulb. I'm willing to bet a cup of coffee on it. I will paypal you a dollar.
let me know your availability and I'll help you out. Shouldn't be hard to find.
P.S. can you go to the track this weekend? Might be cool to get a baseline before the heads and cam ;)
sounds good scott..sat or sunday? also ill check the glove box bulb i forgot to check that one..also how does the test light lite up if both ends are on positive? and notacarlo you got yourself a bet:)
The test light will now be in series with your positive lead to the battery.

That means any and all current (amperage) "consumed" by your car will go through the light and has to go through the test light and it's wires.

The path from positive to ground will be through the test light then whatever current draw is there (if any) to ground. So the light will light up when currrent goes to ground through the thing.

It limits the current available to be drawn a bit through the element which is slightly resistive also.

Use a tail light or trunk light bulb with wires on it. Obviously a meter is more accurate for current tests but a light will work.

Don't try to run anything heavy duty through it however like cranking the car over, I think it would act more like a fuse that way. :biggrin:

50ma draw or less probably won't give you much if any visible light output so when it's off you are ok. :smile:

Make sure the key is off hood lamp is pulled and doors are closed and all accessories and draws that may be wired are in the OFF position for testing.
update... to start with i have two power connections in the car one that came with the car an another for ecm,amps,alarm,ect in a power block. so i did the test with the test light first with the power cable that runs the car, and it didnt lite up so everything is good as far a fuses. second i tried the power block that runs all of the other stuff and it lite up..the alarm has a fuse in the power wire so i removed it and the light turned off. so i guess i found my problem. the reading on the sm was 11.9 so ill check tomorrow and see if it has gone down
Good Job Tony. So you're leaving the fuse out? That's a good plan. My guess is the problem will be gone.
yeah im leaving the fuse off. the only thing that sucks now is that i actually have to use the key to get in