Small fuse block

[John Larkin]

Any cars out there that are known to have small fuse blocks? I'd like to add one since I have too many accessories right now. I've depleted the IGN and BAT terminals on the stocker and feel the need to add a few more. Just seems safer....something with about 5-10 slots. Run a wire from an IGN terminal to the new block and then run everything fused properly.

Alky
WB02
Scanmaster
Jumper Valve
Line Lock
and room to grow

 

[Geoff87]

Funny, I was just thinking about the same thing.... It's already looking pretty bad under the dash! Let me know what you come up with John.

 

[John Larkin]

No candidates yet but after thinking about it a little more there's a better way to supply power to it. A 10 gauge wire from the alternator to a relay. The relay would use the IGN terminal to energize the coil and close the circuit. Then from the 10 gauge wire across the relay, that's where the fuse block power would be fed from. When the ignition is turned off, the relay opens and all accessories turn off. I'm sure this is the safer way. Probably use a 40 amp relay too and maybe a 40 amp fuse in front of it. Not sure about that yet.

 

[Kevin Turch]

Dammit, 2 posts and you already lost me John. This sounds like an excellent idea, my fuse box is also filled to the max. Id like to know how it turns out also.

Kevin

 

[John Larkin]

Well, I found one. 1994 Cutlass Supreme. Behind the glove box is a nice fuse box about 3" x 4". It uses ATC fuses so you don't have to buy those mini ones; there are approx 15 slots. The harness is easily accessible and there is access to cut a really long pigtail. I might be able to cut enough to wire all the way to the alternator post. Then it's just a matter of wiring and grounding it. There is enough room between the gas pedal and the center console in the GN to mount it on the firewall. It will be tough to get a drill in there for the mounting holes but once that's done everything should fall into place. I think I will go ahead and put female connectors on all the wire ends then correspondingly label the box so when it's time to add components it will be plug and play.

 

[Geoff87]

Thanks for the info! Please post an update if you can.

 

[TURBOV6]

fuse block?

How much total current draw would you need on the power distribution block? And are you going to leave it under the hood or inside the car?

You can check out www.microalarm.com or
www.accele.com (might have to contact them)

They would have what you need. I seen some that accept 4g input and have up to 12 accessory outputs that uses ATC fuses..

 

[John Larkin]

I will run it inside the car. That way I only have to bring in power and possibly ground. Everything else will hook up inside. Less wires through the firewall is fine by me. The junkyard way is cheaper than commercial stuff. Painless wants around $40 for a 3 slot box in Jeg's. Ouch.

 

[TURBOV6]

Originally posted by John Larkin
The junkyard way is cheaper than commercial stuff.

True but I think is was around $15-25 retail for the ones i'm talking about but depending on how many outputs. I think the painless wiring ones has complete wires and all the ones that I pick-up don't have any wires you will need to crip on end connectors and screw it on. Check out you local stereo shop, they should have what you're looking for.

There is another way that is very inexpensive that should cost you a few buck and some fuse holders....But might be hard to explain if you are interested e-mail me........

 

[John Larkin]

I think I'm all set but for everyone's benefit, share the news!

 

[TURBOV6]

John check you e-mail.....

I sent you some pics......

You will need a barrier strip and grind off the divider to seperate power, acc, ground, ect.... I use a radio back strap to split the source. Real easy to do.