Smoothing down the oil filter housing

[TRICKSIXPA]

I got my scored up oil filter housing and was wondering what everyone uses to smooth the surface down. I was thinking of using a finishing sander don't known what grit to use. Other ideas are welcome. Thrust plates I heard are junk sooooo....

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[azbob]

Use 220 wet and dry with lite oil lubricant and make figure eights on a sheet of glass. Will take a little time but you will have control over the removal process.

 

[earlbrown]

The filter adapters aren't that expensive, but they do cost more than a couple sheets of sand papers


This might help...

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/54666-building-front-cover-oil-pump-part-1a.html

 

[earlbrown]

oh yeah, make sure to take the valve out before you start lapping.

 

[azbob]

When I did mine I turned it about thirty degrees after a few minutes...I stole the figure eight idea from Earl.

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

So after smoothing this down is there a need for a thicker gasket?
Will the bolts bottom out?

So is there a way to smooth out my old GM cover with the gear housing walls all scored up?
Just curious if it can be saved or set for the trash pile.


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[earlbrown]

No, the gasket thickness is relative to hear height minus gear pocket depth. The filter adapter is just a flat plate. Once it gets smooth, you'll notice the cutting action drops down to damn near nil.

If you were to remove enough metal to need shorter bolts, your arms would look like Popeye's after a 14 day porn-a-thon on XTC.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

So after smoothing this down is there a need for a thicker gasket?
Will the bolts bottom out?

So is there a way to smooth out my old GM cover with the gear housing walls all scored up?
Just curious if it can be saved or set for the trash pile.


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It's junk.

 

[earlbrown]

Yep, what Chuck said. When the gear pocket gets torn up, it's time to make beer cans out of it. Since it's a pocket you can't machine it smaller than it starts.

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

Ok I have a new timing chain cover going in. As far as the gears do the clearances get checked once the cam sensor is in place? Or before.



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[earlbrown]

Before. Clearances and assembly are done in the living room watching TV and drinking beers.

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

I found some 220 wet dry paper. Only had two pieces. I'm gonna get some more tomorrow. Definitely should have started with something courser paper. Once it's flat I'm gonna Finnish with some 320.
Here is progress so far. Need to watch the edges they are getting curled.

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[earlbrown]

100 grit will most likely be fine. It just has to be flat, not a mirror. I think I started with 80 on my adapter after my engine was stolen and smoked. You'll be there all day starting with 220.

Look at your picture at 7:00. That oval hole carries high pressure oil and it'll be the first place to leak. On the pic it looks like your paper has curled up and you're radiusing that section. It's VERY important that the depression doesn't get close to that port. The last thing you want is to finish the job and see a high pressure oil leak to save $40 and have to do it again.

An easy way to check you work is to drag the workpiece in a straight line (with that port at the trailing edge) before lifting it off the paper. If it's low, the parallel marks won't be there.


Odds are you're going to have to live with a half moon groove close to the rectangle opening. Unless you want to spend an hour a day or so for the next week!!

Once that thing gets good and flat, the cutting action is going to drop to damn near nil.