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Soft Lock On ??

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Buick Beginner

Where is my $$$ going?
Joined
Nov 9, 2001
Messages
761
Gentlemen,
I've got a question, as usual. Ha Ha. I recently installed a 9.5 inch , 2600 stall L/U converter. It pulls very nicely. I can see that keeping tires will now be a problem, but anyway my question concerns the lock on. The previous owner/abuser of my car installed a toggle switch to break the 12v flow to the soleniod and keep the converter from locking on. I kept the switch in there for the time being and now it's come in handy for troubleshooting this particular problem. The transmission shifts 1, 2, 3 and 4, no problem, but whenever I throw the toggle to lock on the converter, I don't feel anything. When I had the old D-5 converter, it felt like you were actually shifting into another gear. I checked the wiring and the line is definitely working, because I ran a test light off the receiving end of the toggle switch. I want to say that I can "feel" or maybe hear an ever so slight "burp" whenever I hit the toggle, but it's so soft and subtle I can't tell for sure. The tach doesn't move even after the toggle switch is thrown. So I guess my question is this: could the converter lock on with this particular unit be so soft and subtle to where you wouldn't notice it? Question 2 (while I'm on a roll): I notice after hooking up a test light onto the toggle switch that the wire going down to the soleniod is hot all the time no matter what the speed is. The only time the wire isn't hot is when you are applying the brake. Is that normal? Thanks for your inputs.
- B.B.
P.S. In case you need it - 60 mph, in 4th, 2100 rpms, 255-60-15 BFG Comp T/A's on the rear.
 
Your power input to the TCC system is correct; hot when key-on except when brake pedal is depressed.

Grab a multimeter and crawl under the car. Unplug the transmission harness and probe the case connector on the trans. Measure the resistance between terminals A and D; upper and lower left. (The solenoid has an internal diode so the circuit will only check in one direction.)

You should see 24-26 ohms. That tells you that the internal wiring and TCC solenoid are healthy electrically. If you have an open circuit or short circuit, pull the pan and find the problem.

If you have the proper ohm reading, you've narrowed the problem down to basically two things. The converter clutch lining in the converter is shot or the TCC valve in the pump is stuck. Pull the pan for the next step.

Once the pan is off, get a 10m socket and remove the TCC solenoid. Using a small screwdriver or scribe, push up on the TCC valve that is in the bore where the solenoid was. It should be free to move up and down; there is a spring on the top side of the valve. If it doesn't move, that is a problem that needs to be corrected.

If it is free, I'd bet that your clutch lining is toast in the converter and you know what that means.
 
Thanks greg!

Hey Greg,
Thanks for taking the time to post, I'll be trouble shooting this week. Thanks again - BB:)
 
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