Something different...

[JariV]

Chevrolet Monza "Grand Sport" STW 1978
Engine:
• Chevy smallblock 350 V8, model year 1988.
• Corvette ported aluminum 58cc heads, roller rockers, 10,3 comp ratio
• Owner-modified original ribbed steel valve covers
• Hydraulic roller cam, STD and Comp Cams "305"
• True roller timing gear
• Corvette aluminum water pump, lightweight pulleys
• Intake manifold designed, calculated and made by owner
• Fuelrails and all related pieces designed and made by owner
• Wiring harness modifications and add-ons made by owner
• Altered water circulation system made by owner
• Electronic Control Module modifications, fully tuneable with laptop (included in sale)
• 2x58mm 1000 cfm Accel throttle body with TPI TPS
• Air cleaner box made by owner
• Hooker headers
• GM lightweight superstarter
• Remote-mount twin-oilfilter setup
• Twin 2,5” exhaust, rear twin-muffler made by owner
• Various miscellaneous parts from Mitsubishi, Opel, Alfa Romeo etc.

Transmission:
• GM TH 700 4R 4-speed automatic with overdrive and shift kit
• Computer driven lock-up converter with VSS.

Front axle:
• Chevrolet Monza V8 crossmember with double A-arms
• Thicker than stock coil springs, KONI adjustable shocks, 2 ¼” swaybar
• Modified wheelhubs with 13” (330mm) Wilwood ventilated motorcycle-type discs and Corvette 4-pot brake calipers
• Upper A-arms swapped from left to right and vice versa
• BMW M3 wheel alignment

Rear axle:
• Narrowed Ford 9” axle, Auburn Limited Slip with 3.89:1 gears (3,50:1 gears also)
• Thicker than stock coil springs, KONI adjustable shocks
• 12,5” (318mm) Corvette ventilated discs and 4-pot brake calipers
• Drum parking brake from various Peugeot, Volkswagen and homemade parts made by owner
• 3-link suspension setup with Panhard bar, 1 ¾” swaybar

Interior:
• Tan vinyl upholstery. NOTHING painted!!
• Original seats and panels, every piece covered with the same material
• Dash and instrument panel reworked by owner
• Gauges by Autometer
• Steering wheel from various parts, B&M ratchet shifter, tilt column

Exterior:
• Reinforced bodyshell, Gloss Black paint (VERY good condition, not one scratch, dent, ding or rot)
• Fiberglass bumpers
• Corvette Grand Sport –emblems
• Painting modifications to shiny parts to get modern exterior look
• Fiberglass hoodscoop modified from Dodge Swinger dual hoodscoops

Wheels and tires:
• Ronal-cast aluminum wheels, altered scheme
• Tire size 225/40 R18 front, 235/40 R18 rear

Exterior photos:

Photo inside:

Engine:

Front brakes:

PLEASE NOTE:
Car is in Finland, Europe.
I can help set up the freight.

Price is 27.000 USD.
Possible trade: 1999 or newer Dodge RAM 4x4 with Cummins TD and automatic

Contact info:
jari.vasarainen@nokia.com
or
+358-50-486-8026 (cellular)
fluent English spoken

 

[xXch0dyXx]

car is nice, too bad you dont want GN

 

[JariV]

Thanks man,

glad you like it. When I built it I did have in mind GNs blackout option. And I also have hardcore Buick GN friends in Chicago who know me very well.

But I MIGHT be interested in a good T-Top maybe without engine and trans. I have a complete new and not rebuilt Buick GN SFI cold air turbo engine and TBO Buick trans here in Finland that I need a proper car for. That eng.+trans combo is one of those "crates" Buick sold to Bitter Cars in Germany. That company went down and the packages were up for sale a decade ago. Managed to buy one then. And those are complete packages with hoses, harnesses, boxes, coolers with zero miles. The works.

 

[10secvega]

That is just a Wicked car!!!I got a couple questions.Why did you switch the upper control arms from left to right?How much work was it to stuff those tires?
My eventual goal is to make my Vega a "G" machine.

 

[JariV]

Hi 10sec,

why I swapped the upper arms?

Ok, here's the answer:
To start out with Vega's and Monza's original wheel alignment SUCKS! Mainly due to negative caster. And there's not much camber also.

By swapping upper arms you get approximately 6-7 deg of positive caster which helps in turn a great deal. Then you adjust the lower arms to get negative camber.

After you have swapped the arms then have the wheels aligned with following values:
Caster: POSITIVE 5-7 deg
Camber: NEGATIVE 0,5-1 deg
Toe-in overall: 2 millimeters with 18" wheels (approx. 1mm with 15" wheels)

I can GUARANTEE you just can't believe the difference ( bigger highway ramps are easy at 100mph...smaller with the same speed if you have it in you) :biggrin:
I might say that you loose trust before the car gets loose.

Well, about the tires then:
You referrin' to front or back?
That was not an easy job, but both ends reside in stock wheelwells. That's why I made the aluminum wheelhubs in order to position the wheels exactly into the wells. Cannot give you very accurate info on that because it was a trial-and-error case. But they are there now and work very well.

 

[10secvega]

Thanks!! I just bought a set of uppers with delalum(SP?) bushings in them.I'm going to try this when i change them out.My car is a Cosworth and handles well for what it is.But could always be better.

 

[JariV]

...and I forgot to mention that you need to lower the suspension as close to lower arms being horizontal in order to get the best results. The uppers are interchangeable with upper ball in offset, resulting directly a better angle of the hub.

And naturally changes or adjustments in the back also. Put also thick swaybars front and back to keep the bodyroll to minimum.
And that way you will have your G-machine.

 

[10secvega]

My rear suspension consists of a Chrysler 8 3/4,boxed lower control arms with polyurathane bushings,adjustable pan hard bar,and a chromoly torque arm.Plus the factory sway bar.I'll post pictures but don't want to hijack your thread.

 

[JariV]

No problemo 10sec.

You may hijack if you want. I don't think it's disturbing my ad in any way.

 

[UNDER-PRESSURE]

That is 1 of the Koolest cars i've seen in a long time!!

 

[10secvega]

Not the best pictures.

 

[10secvega]

This torque arm bolts up like th factory one to a Th 350.I'm switching the car over to a 200-4r this winter and making a dislocated torque arm.

 

[JariV]

That's pretty interesting. Roughly your setup seems and sounds quite similar to mine. So I'd say from my point of view that you will have easy time converting that Cosworth towards the "G-mode"
You must know the British saying: Why to buy a Cosworth? 'Cos it's worth it!

One thing though:
Hopefully you will use something else for cooling the trans than what is in the pics.
Road racing will generate ENORMOUS amounts of heat into the trans and as you will convert to TH200-4R then I'd say that the transcooler you are gonna need will be in sizes of around nearly third of your radiator when looked from front. And the shiftkit needs to be quite stout and change gears like a manual. Mine's like that. Trans temp has never exceeded 205F, even in the hottest days. And we do have those hot days here as well. Finnish weather is very similar to Chicago weather.

UNDER PRESSURE:
Maaaaaan, did I drool over your pics. Jeeez, great taste in all the details of that machine. Would not change a thing in that one.

 

[TURBOTWIN2]

2.25 front and 1.75" rear sway bars! Man, that's gotta be stout.
You know, I used to have a Eight Ball shifter, back in the day. That brings back memories.
Thanks for the pics, that's one clean machine. Good luck with the sale.

 

[JariV]

And about my car:
Naturally there's much more in the car than said here until now. Meaning for instance all new balljoints and bushings, new steering box, high volume fuel pump, tuneable fuelreg and al kinds of sh... I trust someone reading these posts know the drill.
Stereo equipment with 6x9" speakers and elec. windshield antenna. A/F ratio meter.

Emulator and ALDL backlog for laptop so you can have the engine and trans full-time-live in the laptop to check what's going on in the car. And naturally tune it according to your preferences. I will give the possible buyer a training on how to use the program.

Ha! Turbo Twin, yea I know the eightball is oldschool but just had to put in because... well because and because. It looked good and also brought back memories to me.

 

[Westside500]

Nice car...

 

[Drac0nic]

Thanks man,

glad you like it. When I built it I did have in mind GNs blackout option. And I also have hardcore Buick GN friends in Chicago who know me very well.

But I MIGHT be interested in a good T-Top maybe without engine and trans. I have a complete new and not rebuilt Buick GN SFI cold air turbo engine and TBO Buick trans here in Finland that I need a proper car for. That eng.+trans combo is one of those "crates" Buick sold to Bitter Cars in Germany. That company went down and the packages were up for sale a decade ago. Managed to buy one then. And those are complete packages with hoses, harnesses, boxes, coolers with zero miles. The works.

So let me get this straight, you have a virgin LC2 floating around in a crate? Err, I wouldn't touch it, I'd let it sit for another 20-30 years. Provided we're still using gasoline then I'd imagine that it'd be worth quite a bit of coin (probably already is to some extent)

 

[JariV]

One more:

Draconic: You got it straight. That's what I have.

This buildup is approximately 2 years old, 5000 miles on the clock. Always cared for, always in a warm garage, naturally no winter use ever. Ignition upgraded with MSD and Accel 300PLUS.

 

[10secvega]

One thing though:
Hopefully you will use something else for cooling the trans than what is in the pics.
Road racing will generate ENORMOUS amounts of heat into the trans and as you will convert to TH200-4R then I'd say that the transcooler you are gonna need will be in sizes of around nearly third of your radiator when looked from front. And the shiftkit needs to be quite stout and change gears like a manual. Mine's like that. Trans temp has never exceeded 205F, even in the hottest days. And we do have those hot days here as well. Finnish weather is very similar to Chicago weather.

I'm out of room in the front of the car(Intercooler).But i will be upgrading that tranny cooler.