stage 1--lower end parts needed


Active Member
Jul 28, 2003
I just have picked up my 3.8 stage one block saturday and now am looking for a crank and or rods. Is there clearance issues using a 3.59 crank and 6.50 rods? I dont really want to grind the block if possible. Is it better to use on center rods in a off center block? Im starting from scratch so anything goes on the rotating assembly. The block has two steel center caps installed and looks like it can be honed and run standard bore or .010 over. Im looking for parts to handle 700-800hp very reliably. I may not need to run that high of HP but like to over build.
My suggestion to you before you buy anything is to have the block sonic checked.I have run into thin walls on stage 1 blocks in the past.I know the casting numbers are the same as stage 2 blocks but they are not created equal.The Stage one blocks where gang bored on the same line as production blocks,where Stage 2 blocks where done by an outside source with much more care being taken.Stage 1's had more core shift than 2's.I'm not knocking your block just passing along one of my many lessons from Hard Knocks University.I had one that was .090 on the pressure faces of one entire bank.That is not good.I would not run anything thinnner than .180.
I would run the off-center rods if you can. You are going to have to clearance the bottoms of the bore slightly and grind into the oil pick-up passage (to the rear of the pick-up) considerably.
so a larger stroke crank than stock will need grinding. Will the 3.4 throw and 6.5 rods clear the oil pickup,passage?Im planning to have the block sonic and magged asap .
You can see the clearance problem with a 3.590 crank in one of my pictures and the sonic test is a must:) I would also never run a block with less than .180 wall on the thrust sides;) Also sometimes depending on the crank you can have a clearance issue with the counter weights on the crank but nothing bad.
Where you clearance the block looks like your grinding into an oil passage? Is there special mods to the oiling that need to be done at that point?
On picture 14 there is a good view of the rod clearence work done to the block with a large stroke crank.
By large i mean larger then 3.4 stroke.
I slid a peice of steel round stock inside the passage and ground on the outside to clear the rod nut. When i broke through into the steel round stock i stopped.Then i reamed the inside of the passage to a perfect press fit for some .062 or .028 wall brass tubing i got at the hobby shop. I also used Cylindrical LocTite to make sure it didnt move. I drove it in untill it bottomed out on the shoulder left from the reamer. You dont berry the reamer you just ream a little deeper than the area you broke through. Then i cut the end off flush so its trapped behind the front cover. If i did it over again id just delete the rear pickup and machine the block for the front PU and make a screen and oil pickup:D I also had to grind one side of the rod bolt flat to clear after it was clocked the right direction from torqing it:rolleyes:
Hmmm, maybe this is the reason Bill from Champion uses a stock crank (TTA) in his Stage1 motor?
Im bumping this back to the top as Im getting some very good info on parts selection. Im narrowing my search to a STOCK stoke crankshaft and either oliver or carrilo rods 6.500. What kind of price do these parts cost new? I know the crower cranks are about 2500,but is there a new BMS crank to be had? At what price? I have no ideas for the cost of the rods 700-1000 new? I guess Im trying to find out to buy new or used and whats a good used price.