stage II oil pickup picture

[rtviper]

Is this a typical oil pickup for a stage II motor. Here are pictures of my bearings. They look hardly worn I think. Behind the bearings was a sheet of what looked like brass that was a little wider then the bearings.This brass was between the bearing and the rod. What is that for?

 

[S2V6RACER]

That pickup is what I ran last time around. That looks like a typical pickup.

I do not know what the brass is behind your bearings. I have never seen that before!!! Bearing spacer of some sort??

 

[slamming 6]

Bearing Spacer

(Bearing Spacer) Yes I have used that before when I didnt have any other wat to get the right clearance.I dont remember what catalog I ordered it from.But I have seen some brass strips at arts&craft stores that would work in a pinch.

 

[rtviper]

Slamming are these strips a bandaid? Is this something I should address while the motor is out? I want to reassemble the motor as soon as possible to attend a race at the end of the month but dont want to hurt the motor either.

 

[slamming 6]

somewhat of a bandaid but sometimes you just cant seem to get the right clearance no matter how you try.I have never had a bearing go bad on a rod I used one on.most of the time I used a brass strip it was on Big Block Chevy,and My little 396 nova would go through the lights at 8600-8800 RPM's.Hope this helps.BTW the rod bearing looks like it may have had some knock.Take Care,AL.

 

[turbodave231]

The brass strips are called "Tapered bearing shims". We used to use them to tighten up the #1 main bearing clearances in early Buick engines.

For a daily driver they are just fine. For a race application, They are a bandaid. I would get the rods resized properly and the journals ground to the right size, to get the right bearing crush and clearances.

I had a similar wear pattern on my rod bearings. I was concerned, but after showing the bearings to Ohio George and talking about the offcenter engine design, he assured me that this wear pattern was normal.

Dave

 

[rtviper]

Thanks everyone for the information. I want to make one more race this season. I have made about 10 low 10 sec runs so far with no more then 21 lbs boost, 22 degrees, and a/f no leaner then 11.4. The bearings looked great,the plugs also. I think the gasket went bad cause it was the wrong one for this application. I will button it up if someone can give me the torque settings for carillo rods and GN1 heads, The heads have studs. Any ideas why every valve seal on the new GN1 heads are broken? They were a brownish orange color at the top of each valve and are in pieces and sliding down the stems. Also one damper is broken. The heads sat for a long while assembled before any racing was done. I will have the springs checked before I put it back together. Is it ok to use the GN1 heads on this block without the steam holes drilled into the heads between the cylinders?

 

[slamming 6]

If the motor is out of the car do as dave says,In between races motor still in the car, run it like a rental car.Torque??? everybody has a different torque setting it seems for the heads.I dont know about the GN1's on the M&A's I have used I torqued them at 65lbs no trouble at all yet.Good Luck on your last race for the season.AL

 

[ijames]

Make sure the retainers aren't hitting the guides/seals, and that the springs aren't going into coil bind. The times I've seen a coil spring bind the pushrod usually bent (or the rocker shaft broke), but the flat dampener springs seem to break when they bind.