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stage valve covers

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bilt2run

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2003
Messages
497
Need stage II valve covers. Need the center bolt ones (bolt through to the rocker nuts) as my lower three bolts are inaccessable on the pass side with ATR headers. :mad:
 
Yup, can't use the lower perimeter bolt holes with the ATR's. As long as we're on the subject of ATR's, have you turned the engine over on the stand to check the alignment of the cross-over pipe? I had to get mine "tweaked" to fit. Also, take a good close look at the weld on the #4 primary pipe where it meets the flange and that little support post for the crossover...mine cracked after a few months. As you can see, there ain't no gettin' that passenger-side header off with the engine in the car, so make sure it's good to go now. One more bit of advice: lock those header bolts either with safety wire or maybe those new allen-bolt locking header bolts. 'Cause there ain't no tightening them in the car, either. :(
 
headers

My motor is already in the car. the cross over required a bit of creative tweaking. The downpipe also needed some time and swearing. I replaced 3 of the header bolts with studs and enlarged a few of the holes so...... I think that I can get to all of them to tighten with my latest copy of the contortionists handbook!!
 
Where in FL are you located? I have a (sort of ugly) pair of valve covers set up for the center bolts/T&D style valvetrain. Drop me a line..maybe I can mill you something to suit like I did on mine. :)
 
valve covers

I am in Ft Myers. If you have the covers I needed one with a breather so I can put oil in the car in a more conventional manner!! But I will take them in any usable condition..
Thanks
Bobby
Phone 239 910 3366 :)
 
I bought an extra flange for the passenger side. When the headers come in I am going to weld the extra flange on and use longer locking stage 8 header bolts. I am told the extra flange will make the headers easier to work with.
 
headers

I wouldn't do it. The alignment of all the other parts is precarious at best already!!! I just removed my pass valve cover and confirmed that all the header bolts are easily reached with the cover off.. I am confident that I could remove and reinstall the header in the car as well.
P.S. I am running air with the ATR mod on the box AND IT IS TIGHT!!!:)
 
I hear ya. I have no heater box, but the idea came from Tony Gomes. He ran it that way for a while before he had Kooks do him a header and down pipe and he has the heater box and functional AC. He said the fit is just as tight that way as it is with the extra flange.:D
 
I use perimeter bolts with my ATR headers without a problem, but no heater box. I moved all my A/C stuff behind the dash with a vintage air kit. Plenty of room for the 3.5 downpipe in the engine bay now. Removing the downpipe takes three minutes giving me perfect access to header bolts and especially spark plugs. The bigest pain I had is aligning the front brace for the turbo since it is one piece with the header flange.
Greg Kring
 
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