Hello,
This is gonna be kind've a long post so be prepared!
I haven't driven the car much (~150 mi) since last smog 2 years ago. So I started up the car again to get new tires mounted and see if all's fine prior to facing an upcoming smog test. I've noticed the car stalls every once in awhile (in no particular order) when shifting to Drive (sometimes), from hitting the brakes hard from ~20 mph (a lot), while at a stop sign just before taking off (sometimes), as I'm making a slow right turn, and finally when shifting into Reverse (sometimes).
I've done some searches and it seems this problem is usually IAC related. So I took apart and cleaned out the TB, vaccum block, upper phlenum, and IAC valve with "gunk fuel inj/air intake cleaner" and replaced all the gaskets. Pretty oilly, so I figure I've the problem licked.
I first reset the IAC via the "ALDL connector way" and checked the TPS. Stalling still there! So next I reset the IAC to the 10-20 range with my scan master like most recommend. This is with the stock Buick chip I last used for last smog test (if it matters). Scan tool results AF 05, L8 35, BAT 12.2-13.0, INT 126-135, BL 143, CLE 192, AES 138, RPM 750-775, TPS 0.44, TPS 0.44, IAC 15
So next I bump the IAC to above the 10-20 range to see if things get better. Seems better, less frequent stalling but still happens. Scan results AF 05, L8 35, BAT 12.2-13.0, INT 126-135, BL 140-142, CLE 175, AES 130, R 750-800, TPS 0.40, IAC 32
Once the AES also said hot. This is with a 160* stat and original chip.
Next day I put in my Caspers 8 position chip in the stock setting and my cat back on with no change in stalling. Scan results show IAC went down on its own though. Scan results AF 04, L8 32, BAT 12.5-13.5, INT 124-132, BL 143-147, CLE 189, ATS 126, RPM 725-775, TPS 0.40, IAC 18
I've checked for vacuum leaks around the TB and intake with propane (kinda hesitant since first time with the stuff). I assume the valve's OK since the IAC # go up a little when I shift into Drive and a lot while driving. Should I just replace the thing or is there something else I should look for?
Sorry for the long post.
(i'm gonna try to figure out how to put car info in post)
This is gonna be kind've a long post so be prepared!
I haven't driven the car much (~150 mi) since last smog 2 years ago. So I started up the car again to get new tires mounted and see if all's fine prior to facing an upcoming smog test. I've noticed the car stalls every once in awhile (in no particular order) when shifting to Drive (sometimes), from hitting the brakes hard from ~20 mph (a lot), while at a stop sign just before taking off (sometimes), as I'm making a slow right turn, and finally when shifting into Reverse (sometimes).
I've done some searches and it seems this problem is usually IAC related. So I took apart and cleaned out the TB, vaccum block, upper phlenum, and IAC valve with "gunk fuel inj/air intake cleaner" and replaced all the gaskets. Pretty oilly, so I figure I've the problem licked.
I first reset the IAC via the "ALDL connector way" and checked the TPS. Stalling still there! So next I reset the IAC to the 10-20 range with my scan master like most recommend. This is with the stock Buick chip I last used for last smog test (if it matters). Scan tool results AF 05, L8 35, BAT 12.2-13.0, INT 126-135, BL 143, CLE 192, AES 138, RPM 750-775, TPS 0.44, TPS 0.44, IAC 15
So next I bump the IAC to above the 10-20 range to see if things get better. Seems better, less frequent stalling but still happens. Scan results AF 05, L8 35, BAT 12.2-13.0, INT 126-135, BL 140-142, CLE 175, AES 130, R 750-800, TPS 0.40, IAC 32
Once the AES also said hot. This is with a 160* stat and original chip.
Next day I put in my Caspers 8 position chip in the stock setting and my cat back on with no change in stalling. Scan results show IAC went down on its own though. Scan results AF 04, L8 32, BAT 12.5-13.5, INT 124-132, BL 143-147, CLE 189, ATS 126, RPM 725-775, TPS 0.40, IAC 18
I've checked for vacuum leaks around the TB and intake with propane (kinda hesitant since first time with the stuff). I assume the valve's OK since the IAC # go up a little when I shift into Drive and a lot while driving. Should I just replace the thing or is there something else I should look for?
Sorry for the long post.
(i'm gonna try to figure out how to put car info in post)