stalling when hot??

[jarredsoon]

So TTA 365 is running and performing great but when the car gets hot and I am decellerating I notice the SES light blink a few times and then the car stalls. Then I will turn the key and the engine will turn over but not start. SO then I have to wait a 8-10 min until the car will start. In the morning when I first go to start the car she fires up no prob. Also when I am sitting at a red light she will stall out on me, that is getting really annoying. Any ideas?? scanmaster does not show a mal code.

Jarred.

 

[Razor]

If you dont get a malfunstion code, your losing power. Check the fusible links by the starter. Does anything else die when this happens? Like radio, AC, wipers, scanmaster, etc?

You have to look for common things. Another thing I have seen do crazy stuff is having a loose ignition module. There are three bolts that secure it down underneath the bracket.. if those are loose.. you'll chase your tail.

I only mention this becuase that motor has been out of the car. A loose ground or power connection will cuase intermittant problems.

 

[jarredsoon]

Razor!!!!

You always have good advice.
I will check the ignition module for sure. I am not too sure where the fusible links are but will look that up and give that a check. I will let you know what i find tomorrow,

it is funny nothing else is wrong with the car, it actually is great other than the random stalling. just a quick ses falsch and then stall, scan master stil on and radio still good, although I am usually not listening to the radio so I am guessing it is good.

I just had the Ignition module replaced too so maybe the bolts are not too tight.

THanks,

Jarred.

 

[Razor]

Fuse links are by the starter.

A bad ignition switch can also cause the problem.

See if you unplug a sensor and the check engine light comes on.. it will store a code until you reset the battery. The only thing that makes the SES light come on and not store a code, is losing power. If you lose battery power it resets the computer and all your BL numbers go to 128. If you loose ignition, the computer shuts off and reboots but doesnt loose memory. Like if you grab the key and shut the car off for an instant.

Look at the BL numbers on your scanmaster and see if they reset to 128. If so, your problem is the reset plug by the battery.

 

[jarredsoon]

ok well I was moving all night and didn't get a chance to tinker with the tta 365 but I will report results as soon as I can.

Jarred.

 

[jarredsoon]

ok so I have been moving all night and didn't have much time. I did check the bracket holding the ignition module and it does have three bolts montin to the intake and a seat that it rests on near the firewall. I am assumming you mean three bolts going up underneith the module and the bracket. I will remove the braket and check later.

I also checked the plug into the module itself, the bolt hoding it into the moldule is tight but the cover is pretty loose, I am guessing that that would not matter. Please correct any bad thinking I have.

Next I am gonna drive the car on ramps and check the fusible links and pull a sensor to see if a mal code stays or goes on the scanmaster,

Will report back soon.

Jarred.

 

[Razor]

Yeah its the three nuts underneath the bracket.

The cover is normally loose, dont worry about that one.

Easy sensor to pull is the TPS or MAF with engine running.

 

[jarredsoon]

Well I don't know what happened but everything is good now. I removed the tps sensor to test if the mal code 22 was still there after the car stalled but wouldn't ya know it I drove around all night and the car would not stall......

Crazy hey. I assume that the problem i snot fixed and this is just part of the intermittent problem.... We'll see, tomorrow I will check below the ing module.

Jarred.

 

[jarredsoon]

SO I went out to perform the sensor test again and I pulled the tps sensor to create a mal 22 code and I did and then the car stalled while idling in teh driveway, the scanmaster went to --- --- and then I checked the mal codes and it still had 22. I attempted to start the car and it would turn over but not start, then I waited a bit and tapped the maf sensor and the car started.

I went out my place and up a hill and stalled again, this time the car started without tapping the maf. THe scanmaster still had mal 22 stored in it. I then drove around for about 30 min and no problems.

Is this an ignition problem?? ( I have a new ignition module 1yr old)
Or is my MAF sensor crappin out on me.???

Jarred.

 

[Razor]

SO I went out to perform the sensor test again and I pulled the tps sensor to create a mal 22 code and I did and then the car stalled while idling in teh driveway, the scanmaster went to --- --- and then I checked the mal codes and it still had 22. I attempted to start the car and it would turn over but not start, then I waited a bit and tapped the maf sensor and the car started.

I went out my place and up a hill and stalled again, this time the car started without tapping the maf. THe scanmaster still had mal 22 stored in it. I then drove around for about 30 min and no problems.

Is this an ignition problem?? ( I have a new ignition module 1yr old)
Or is my MAF sensor crappin out on me.???

Jarred.

Sounds like MAF.

Unplug it next time and see if the car starts. It will run without a MAF, just run like crap.

Since its holding the code, its not losing power. So you dont have an ignition power problem. Not that your crank sensor or ignition module could be bad, but I would suspect MAF.

 

[grkgn]

what fuel pump do you have in the car cause i had a similar problem if you have a walbro chances are its defective get rid of it and put reds pump

 

[Razor]

what fuel pump do you have in the car cause i had a similar problem if you have a walbro chances are its defective get rid of it and put reds pump

The Reds pump is a Walbro pump with the numbers ground off :wink:

 

[jarredsoon]

So far I am still having problems, I have learned that when I start the car, warm it up and then drive it will stall within about 6-8 min of driving. Then once it starts again it is good all night. The mystery continues.....

 

[jarredsoon]

So I swapped out my maf for a known good maf and car still stalls. I am gonna try swapping out ignition module next and see what happens. Jarred.

 

[BuckeyeTroop]

Jarred, I'm still having the same issues as you, although I did drive about 4+ hrs to the TA Nationals over the weekend. On the way down it did fine even in stop and go traffic after almost three hrs, but then I had to stop for traffic about 30 min from the Nat's and it stalled and I had to let it cool. I did drive it all the way home with no issues even when I stopped for red lights traffic etc. My next check will be the coil pack and ignition module I guess. GoodLuck

 

[Metal]

my TTA/Z28 hybrid is having he same problem. My buddy (V6/TA on the board) said when his was doing that it was his crank sensor.

 

[jarredsoon]

well maybe i'll put a new crank sensor on, or atleast check to make sure it is not hitting the moving metal. I heard that the ignition module can heat up and fry itself. I am gonna swap ignition module tonight and tomorrow gonna drive the car alot and see what happens.

 

[jarredsoon]

Well crank sensor is not loose or hitting anything.

I swapped out the ignition module and coil pack tonight for a known good functioning unit. Before long my car stalled. I am thinking this may be an intermittent problem with the crank sensor??

Razor, I also checked the three bolts on the bottom of the module/coil pack and they were tight.

Can the crank sensor work sometimes and then not other times?? FOr sure this only happens when the car is hot. Car always fires right up cold.

What do you guys think??

Jarred.

 

[Metal]

Well crank sensor is not loose or hitting anything.

I swapped out the ignition module and coil pack tonight for a known good functioning unit. Before long my car stalled. I am thinking this may be an intermittent problem with the crank sensor??

Razor, I also checked the three bolts on the bottom of the module/coil pack and they were tight.

Can the crank sensor work sometimes and then not other times?? FOr sure this only happens when the car is hot. Car always fires right up cold.

What do you guys think??

Jarred.

I bought a new coil pack and ignition module too. I also had the module tested up at Murry's and they said it was fine. I'm going to replace the crank sensor maybe tomorrow and see what happens.
That's the only thing I've heard from someone else causing the same thing. I think a bad MAF would just run like crap all the time.

PS one thing I didn't notice the SES light but the scanmaster blanks out with all dashes ---- -----

 

[Scott89TTA]

When my MAF went bad at 1st it was intermittent and then it was done and rand like total crap....wouldn't go over 20 mph. Another thing you may want to look at is the fuel pump...mine failed last Fall. The symptoms were very similar...started right up but after it ran a while it would shut off and would not start back up for a few minutes. I do have a in-car fuel pressure gauge so I was able to tell the pump was failing when I saw the fuel pressure fall to 20-15 psi before it cut off. At 1st I didn't even consider the fuel pump but I just happened to look at my fuel pressure gauge when it was shutting off and saw the falling pressure. If I didn't have the gauge I'm not so sure I would have figured it out so quick especially since my pump was new with only about 400 miles on it. Might be worth looking at.


Scott