Starting to get nervous... Did I do it right?

[UncleDave]

I read so much about issues regarding coolant seeping up through bolt holes that I'm starting to worry... Just had the engine rebuilt and am finishing up reassembly. I just don't want to have to deal with crazy issues like this when it's finally back in the car and I try to start 'er up.

Is there a rule regarding how much sealant you're supposed to slop onto the threads? I didn't use an excessive amount, but enough to cover them, leaving the first couple threads exposed as suggested. This is basically a stock rebuild... I used FelPro 1000 gaskets and ARP bolts (not the studs). Torqued 'em down, then re-torqued the next day.

I'm sure there are as many opinions on this as there are stars in the sky, but this is the stuff I used:

Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant

OEM specified. Locks and seals threaded fittings. Resists leakage, vibration loosening, moisture, hydraulic fluids and diesel fuels. Lubricates threads for easy assembly and disassembly. Won’t shred or wear like thread seal tape. Parts may be repositioned up to 4 hours after application. Temperature range from -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C). Contains PTFE.

Suggested Applications: Head bolts into through holes, oil PSI sending units and sensors, oil and coolant lines, fuel fittings, rear axle fill plug, brake and power steering fittings

It says up to 4 hours to 'reposition parts' but I had re-applied torque to the head bolts the next day at someone's suggestion. Just wanna know if I'll be OK, or do I need to redo with a different method and sealant? Just don't want to destroy my freshly rebuilt motor.

Thanks,
~Dave

 

[ZNix]

I am not sure. But you could have broken the "Seal". After-all it is a "seal"ant and probably dried after the 4 hours. That is my guess.

 

[jpwalt1987]

You probably disturbed the sealant after the cure time if you retorqued the next day. I dont really care for the Felpro 1000s. I have seen them leak when they really shouldnt have. If it is a stockish rebuild then I would use the stock replacement (9441s I think) gaskets. If your gonna turn up the wick....cometics with the copper spray. Be sure to use ARP moly lube under the head of the bolt and washer too.

 

[UncleDave]

OK... Most of the advice I read says to re-torque after running the engine, or after letting it sit overnight. Is that really necessary? How can this be done without worrying about breaking the seal? Is there a special type of sealant required?

Looks like I will re-do this for peace of mind. Engine is still out of the car, so no big deal. The ARP bolts are supposed to be re-usable, but if that's not recommended, speak now... :redface:

 

[UncleDave]

...And is it recommended to use copper spray prior to assembly with the 9441's?

 

[JDSfastGN]

You will be fine... I retorque after using the permatex days after sometimes. It stays some what pliable. Its usually studs that leak. The sealant is still in there and will do its job. I wouldn't worry about it. BTW no copper spray with 9441s

 

[LOT]

don't worry

JD is right. Go to GM and get a pack of sealant tablets--disolve 3 in hot water and add to rad. Nothing wrong with Felpro 1000. I have used them many times. I just saw someone post not to use them (1000) with aluminum heads, that they were for iron heads only--BS. There is so much well intended info on here but not all is accurate.

 

[UncleDave]

Thanks guys. I tend to over-think and worry too much. I'll grab some GM tabs.

Separate, but unrelated question: Any special break-in procedure required fror new engine with roller cam? I'm assuming that the 20-minute, 2000RPM initial run and ZDDP additive aren't necessary with a roller?

Thanks!

 

[750H.P.V6]

I just saw someone post not to use them (1000) with aluminum heads, that they were for iron heads only--BS. There is so much well intended info on here but not all is accurate.

Lee,

I think where this info came from was the Felpro catalog. Originally the 1000 gasket had a stainless wire in the flame ring armor which makes it difficult to flatten when using an aluminum head. The result is that the flame ring will brinell the head.

Somewhere along the line the gasket has changed as the Felpro catalog now lists it as having a pre flattened copper wire in the flame ring which makes it fine for use with aluminum heads.

Its really a better gasket for a Stage I or II motor with 14 bolt heads than a stock block in my opinion. You know what they say about opinions.

Neal