STILL cannot get this alky kit tuned right!

[Razor]

You can get the meter at Grainger for 75 bucks..or MCM electronics Tenma brand for about the same.

Dunno bought the probe..thats the question I can answer. I bought mine from SMC for 40 bucks 2 years ago..should be a cheaper place????

 

[87natl]

Don, I am wondering about that pump speed still. I still have my stock I/C on(thanks to Mease), I have 23/21 timing just like you, running 25psi boost on pump gas. I have a dual nozzle alky set up, and run my pump speed at 3 1/2 with no knock!

And I am running a bigger turbo than you are. Are you still running stock injectors? I am just surprised tha you need that much alky, unless you are compensating for weak injectors.

I know all of our cars are different. But it is just hard to believe you need a high pump speed on a dual setup, considering your combo is not highly modded.

 

[scottyb]

I have a rather mild setup, mostly stock. I have blocked off one of the 2 nozzles and keep the pump speed at ~5 and run ~20 lbs of boost. I have the same problem. If I don't roll in easy, I usually get a little knock as the boost spikes. I never have knock on the high end. If I mash the prime button as I start in, 0 knock always and runs like a scalded dog. I figure that even with low turn-on point, it can't match the fast spool of the Thrasher and subsequent spike. I just keep the turn-on as low as reasonably possible.

 

[d0n_3d]

well they say that if you are running too much alcohol then the car will bog right? well right now my pump speed is on 8 and turn on point is 10 lbs of boost...now i am not getting ANY knock and at the top end the car SCREAMS...there's no bogging...my car likes ALOT of alcohol for some reason...i got the boost up to around 24-25 lbs now on 93 octane...i am running a te-44 turbo and 50 lb injectors running 45 psi of pressure line off...

so far so good...been a couple days like this and haven't seen knock...my car is just weird ok you have to understand

 

[87natl]

Hey, if it's workin', keep on keepin' on!

But I am a bit confused. You said in your first post that you had tried it at pump speed 8, and that you had set your turn on to 10. And you were getting knock. but now you're not? What did you change?

Signed,
Curious.

 

[cjp69]

Let me know if you solve this problem, mine is doing the same with a similar setup.

Chris

 

[d0n_3d]

Originally posted by 87natl
Hey, if it's workin', keep on keepin' on!

But I am a bit confused. You said in your first post that you had tried it at pump speed 8, and that you had set your turn on to 10. And you were getting knock. but now you're not? What did you change?

Signed,
Curious.

i don't know...sometimes it tends to knock like crazy...other times it doesn't knock at all...like i said my car is crazy...

i have never had a problem with pressing the test button right before i go WOT...never get knock that way...so if i ever start knocking again i will just do that...

 

[cjp69]

d0n_3d,

I emailed Steve at SMC and described the problem I am having (some as you, have to prime the kit before launch to avoid knock) and he said he had a $12 check valve that should cure this!

Chris

 

[turboaddict2]

where would the check valve be installed? Somewhere in the tank?

 

[cjp69]

In Steve's words:

The check valve will install right b4 the nozzle.

I don't know anymore than that, I haven't seen one. I did ask him to send me one though!

Chris

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Check valve??

Normally, the system is "open" to the nozzles..Therefore, in my tests, I found that the system took up to 3 sec's to come to full pressure. Given a lower to zero line pressure at onset of spray, the volume of alky is low, and knock can ensue...[Boost rise outruns alky!]
Also, without a check in the line, once the pump is shut off, the venturi effect of the intake air will pull the alky out of the line and nozzles. Now the next shot of alky has to fill the line, go to full pressure, before the max amt of alky is sprayed...

Back under my rock....

 

[cjp69]

So what you are saying Chuck, in non-technical terms, is that the check valve should help solve our problem?

Thanks, Chris

 

[ALXTTA 1]

I like the idea of the check valve (I'm assuming this means a one-way valve.) But, if you installed the valve right before the nozzle, wouldn't the valve only hold the alky that's "downstream" i.e., between the nozzle and valve? Wouldn't it be better to install the valve on the other end of the line, near the tank, so that the valve keeps the entire line full? Or would that be too dangerous to keep the line constantly full (even with the stainless steel line that the SMC kit uses now)?
My other question is, would the valve be any sort of restriction that would lower the possible pressure (of alky flowing the correct direction) when the system is "on" and pumping?

 

[Razor]

Its a band aid. The reason you dont knock the second time you get on it is that after you lift from spraying the first time, there is alcohol in the IC, lines, etc...

Fix is to turn it on whereas the alky is in the motor before the time your at a detonation level. based on turbos, spool, etc etc etc..every car is different. twin stage firing really low or progressive are the only real fixes I know off.

Check valves wont do it...the nozzle already has a spring loaded mechanism in it..and the only thing that can maybe do is not let the boost push air into the line..and the pump taking even longer.

bandaid

 

[Two Lane]

PROGRESSIVE CONTROLLERS

Originally posted by Razor


Its a band aid. The reason you dont knock the second time you get on it is that after you lift from spraying the first time, there is alcohol in the IC, lines, etc...

Twin stage firing really low, or progressive are the only real fixes

Don,

Why not try a progressive controller?