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Still contemplating FAST

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turbosam6

My cars suck
Joined
Jul 24, 2001
Messages
3,356
I'm still thinking about going to a FAST system, mainly for ease of tunability. I only get to the track 6 or so times a year, so this would help me reach my goals faster. But I have some questions first:

Does the FAST B2B have knock retard? Does it use the stock sensor?

Is there any type of "check engine" light?

Is there any TCC control?

Where is the best place to locate the MAT sensor?

Will I still be able to use my air conditioning? i.e., will it step up the idle as needed?

And finally, how reliable is it? My buddy has it on his car, and cold starts are a bitch. Is it something in the program? I like the reliability of the stock ecm, but want something easier to set up and tune. How hard will it be for me to learn to use it? I'm OK with a stock ecm, but this is so much different. Thanks for any help!
 
In a nutshell, the answers are yes, yes, no, no, in the up pipe, yes, and yes. The IAC motor will respond to the load the AC compressor places on the engine so you'll be OK there.

The cold start thing sounds like a tuning issue that should be simple enough to fix. The only variables are cranking fuel, timing, and IAC position so the hardest part is usually waiting for the engine to cool down to test your changes. We just had a car in our shop today that, with almost no tuning, fired up and idled by itself. It rolled over maybe half a revolution before it fired up.

There are plenty of dealers who can help you out with pricing and technical info as well. Take a look at our website and you'll see that there are plenty of dealers within a couple hours of you.
 
Actually he recently joined, but his car is dissassembled right now, so that will have to wait. Thanks for the answers. So with no check engine light, how does one tell if theres a problem, other than the obvious. If the car runs crappy, then no light is needed, but isn't it possible for sensors to become out of whack and you not tell right away? Does the FAST ecm still maintain communication with the tranny, like the stocker? Will I need to change anything tranny wise for this? And heres a dumb question- I assume a scanmaster is useless with FAST, right? On my buddy's car, there was just an adapter harness, then the wide band o2, no other wiring (I think). Is that it? And the o2 needs to go in the downpipe, right? And the wb o2 will be ok for leaded and unleaded gas, right? Sorry for all the questions, and thanks for taking the time to help!
 
You can check all sensors through your laptop via a dashboard srceen. Everything you need to know is online. No tranny control, you will need a stand alone system for that. Since all the sensors are available to view through your laptop a scanmaster is not needed nor will it work. Don't know where the turbo buick guys mount the O2 but that is where mine is on my WRX. A lot of people have run leaded gas with the wideband with no problems.
 
Speaking of cold start. What a good timing number to use for starting. Where can I change the cranking fuel number and to how much? Is the IAC position number under the Idle menu? Also, everytime I turn the car off at normal operaton, it will not crank up anymore unless you wait to it cool down. I tried up the timing and lower the fuel in fuel map but does not work. Oh by the way, I have a 95 twinturbo Mustang with 55lb injector. I got the O2 pretty close to the x-pipe. Right where the two downpipe crosses. Is this a good location? Thanks for any helpful info. Robert
 
Originally posted by 6TURBOV6
I got the O2 pretty close to the x-pipe. Right where the two downpipe crosses. Is this a good location? Thanks for any helpful info. Robert

Based on the response i got , it may be to far away, although i dont think it matter to much, check my post on this board for more info
 
Robert-

The IAC position varies from car to car, depending on how your throttle body is set up. A rule of thumb is to put the IAC position during cranking at the same position as if you were idling- in other words, if your IAC stays around 25 when the engine is idling at 180 degrees, then the IAC should be around 25 when cranking at 180. If your engine idles with the IAC at 100 when cold, then set the IAC around 100 at that temp.

When you say that it won't crank, is that a starter problem? If so, maybe you are putting in too much fuel or have too much timing. I have about 15 degrees for cranking.

-Bob Cunningham
bobc@gnttype.org
 
I have been looking at getting something for my mustang as well, stock EEC is ok, but with all the mods going on this winter, I think I will need something else...Im not too sure about the FAST system other than seems to need to have an antiquated laptop to work with...But, again not sure on anything. I do know though that the Gen 7 system and the new Gen 7+ have all that you ask about, knock retard, CE or MIL lamp, adjustable TCC lockup...

As for mounting sensors, other then what goes into a somewhat stock location, they have a manifold surface temp sensor that helps to average port temps, stick it on the manifold surface I'd say, out of sight and under the manifold if you are concerned about looks...A/C will still function as normal, and can be set up seamlessly when powered up and shuts down.

It is as reliable as OEM, seems like a lot of the OEMs are using or going with the accel system for their aftermarket programs...Cold start is a tuning issue, a lot of that has been helped out behind the scenes with the 7+ system...You can get an adaptor harness if you choose from Turbo People, i think they make them or sell em at least..

Something else to look at I'd say if making an investment like this...I have been calling & doing tons on research on it...
 
For mine it was like 1425 for the kit, but I am going to use the distributor they have too and thats like $300 so I can run it sequential...Probably $1850 or so by the time its on the car...Im not sure for a GN, or what kit you need...But if its a GN, I think they have cam/crank so you wouldn't need the dist???
 
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