Still leaks oil, dammit!

[scottyb]

I replaced the valve cover gaskets, and I can tell it's dry because I can see it from under the car. I replaced the rear main seal.

There's still a healthy leak that drips from the starter area onto the crossover pipe and also more in the flywheel cover. I cleaned the cover and now it has oil over the right side, and not the left.

Thoughts? Is there something else in the area?

 

[IronEagle119]

I too, have replaced the head, intake, valve cover gaskets, and the rear main seal last summer, and finally pulled the car out of the garage and the SOB is still leaking, it isn't near as bad as what it used to be, but I was hoping this would solve my oil leak problems as well.

 

[Joe231]

It's a part of life deal with it and have fun...

 

[disco stu]

I hear what joe is saying, but if it is what I think it is, I know how bad it can be. Sounds like the intake is leaking at the rear. Those rubber strips can either work like a charm or be totally useless.

 

[scottyb]

Originally posted by disco stu
I hear what joe is saying, but if it is what I think it is, I know how bad it can be. Sounds like the intake is leaking at the rear. Those rubber strips can either work like a charm or be totally useless.

That's not what I wanted to hear, but figgered I'd get.

 

[stickybones]

Just came in from the garage. Replaced my oil pan gasket...again. That's where I think mine was leaking from because everything above the pan was dry.

Hopefully it's all sealed up this time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed 'cause I hate oil leaks.

 

[scottyb]

Originally posted by stickybones
Just came in from the garage. Replaced my oil pan gasket...again. That's where I think mine was leaking from because everything above the pan was dry.

Hopefully it's all sealed up this time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed 'cause I hate oil leaks.

I don't mind a little drip, I've owned several VW's and they ALL leak (air cooled). What I hate is that it drips on the crossover and smells like a$$. The heater conveniently sucks in the burning smell.

 

[Slowhawk]

LOL!!! Mine is leaking the same exact spot!!!! I spent the winter replacing the rear seal,oil pan,valve cover gaskets and oil is still leaking by the starter area I guess the intake is next..On these cars do you use the rubber end gaskets or silicone?

I like my TA alot more,gaskets stay put and seal really good.

 

[Joe231]

Hey Guys

I wasn't trying to be sarcatic. Just telling you the truth. I had my motor rebuilt this past year and it has 1400 miles on it...guess what...it links. My buddy has a show GN with 25,000 original miles...and it links. I truely believe no matter what ALL GNs/TRs will link. Its like a factory option that came with he car.

 

[JToups386]

Joe231, I believe you meant to say "leaks" three times...?

As anyone who has owned a Buick 3.8 for any length of time, you should've heard the old adage --- "If you have a Buick 3.8 that isn't leaking oil, then, it doesn't have any oil in it..."

However, I tend to agree with the above notations referring to the intake, via the rubber strip seals for the front and back. I've torn multiple intakes off over the years, and have found that the rubber seals are much more prone to leak, rather than if you were to use a good solid bead of black or grey RTV silicone. Could just be "user error" but these are my learnings...

Also, check your oil return line where it goes into the front of the block, as well as check it at the base of the turbo. That line can crack and leak, and the brass fitting in the block has also been known to spew, if loose or cracked. (it happens).
Oil has the ability to travel a good distance before reaching a point where it drips to the ground, therefore, you may need to look further upstream than where you actually see it on the crossover, etc.

 

[scottyb]

So, this potential location on the intake, is it under pressure or a seep?
What are the chances of me "slowing the leak" by smearing RTV on it? I know this sounds cheezy, but I aint removing the intake anytime soon.

 

[6SENSE]

Just had to respond to this one. I too experience the same, and have heard the old Buick 3.8 saying. Still sucks though. As expensive as the synthetic oil is that I use, Id rather not have to buy a couple extra quarts everytime just to make it through to the next oil change. Ive replaced every seal mentioned. Pan gasket twice. I was wondering if that round press-in seal on the front cover where the balancer goes (cant think of what its really called right now....tired) was the culprit, so I changed it a couple times too. Ive got signs of oil back at the flywheel cover and have been noticing it upfront as well (wet on the crossmember, front cover/crank sensor area). From what Ive read in this thread it sounds like the front and rear of the intake is the place to look. I have always used the rubber seals here with a dab of black silicone at the edges where they meet the gasket; I have also always had a oil leak. Maybe not a concidence?

 

[JToups386]

Originally posted by scottyb
So, this potential location on the intake, is it under pressure or a seep?
What are the chances of me "slowing the leak" by smearing RTV on it? I know this sounds cheezy, but I aint removing the intake anytime soon.

The common sense part of me says to discourage you from doing this, however, I once sealed my Heater Core inlet/outlet with JB Weld, while it was still in the car and hooked up. It lasted 2+ years that way.
However, you're dealing with an area that is going to be impossible to get all the oil residue off the surfaces while it's still bolted down, and especially in the corners. Therefore, the RTV is going to have a heck of a time bonding to the surfaces.
You can certainly try, and there's always the possibility of it actually working. Although, good luck on the back side, if that's where the problem is...
Pulling the intake is a half-day job at best, including breaks and lunch.
If you want to do it right, then I can only encourage you to take the time to pull it, and seal it. However, before doing so, you need to determine that it's truly the problem, or else your efforts will be in vain, and you'll want to cuss worse than a ticked-off sailor!
It would be good if you could purchase a small bottle of "oil dye" $8, and pour it into the system, and then use a blacklight, or find a mechanic that will let you use his, to identify where the leaks are prevalent. You'd have to degrease everything first though, to ensure accurate results.
It's no fun to chase these problems, but, you either have to commit to going through the efforts, or deal with the puddles...

 

[1985BuickGN]

Do a search on valve cover gaskets. I had leaks like crazy on 2 different motors both with different style valve covers and heads (one stock and one champion). I looked at everything before I figured out it was the valve covers. I tried three styles of gasket, cork, rubber and the metal frame with blue rubber (felpro). Even with silicone and proper torque the cork and rubber still leaked. I do know that if you overtighten any of them, they will leak. Mine always leaked in the back corners along the firewall and dripped onto the crossover pipe. Usually only happened under boost, one time they leaked so bad it looked like I had a smoke screen behind me whenever I hit the gas. The only set I've had any luck with so far are the metal style with blue rubber molded onto them. They don't require silicone and must be torqued properly or they will leak. The only down side is you will have to check the bolts on a regular basis or they will come loose. it's only 44 inch lbs. HTH.

 

[Joe Tiano]

Even with silicone and proper torque the cork and rubber still leaked. I do know that if you overtighten any of them, they will leak. Mine always leaked in the back corners along the firewall and dripped onto the crossover pipe. Usually only happened under boost, one time they leaked so bad it looked like I had a smoke screen behind me whenever I hit the gas. The only set I've had any luck with so far are the metal style with blue rubber molded onto them

why did you use RTV with a cork gasket??.....they dont need RTV to seal..I've never seen a wine bottle that had a cork with RTV on it...IT does HAVE to be CLEAN! good luck

 

[granatl]

Originally posted by scottyb
I replaced the valve cover gaskets, and I can tell it's dry because I can see it from under the car.

There's still a healthy leak that drips from the starter area onto the crossover pipe and also more in the flywheel cover. I cleaned the cover and now it has oil over the right side, and not the left.

Thoughts? Is there something else in the area?

This is identical to my problem. I've replaced that gasket (and sealant for the extender) 5 times in the last 2 months! I'm starting to wonder if I accidentally sealed my oil drain back holes in that head shut.

 

[1985BuickGN]

Originally posted by Joe Tiano
why did you use RTV with a cork gasket??.....they dont need RTV to seal..I've never seen a wine bottle that had a cork with RTV on it...IT does HAVE to be CLEAN! good luck

If you really need to know, the first time I used cork I didn't use RTV, after that I experimented with several different ways until I found something that worked. Boy, I sure wish I had time to pick apart someone else's posts

 

[TJLIMITEDTR]

oil leak

I too had a major oil leak, same area and symtoms.After changing all the usual gaskets[valve rear main oil pan and so on the major culprit turned out to be the pcv grommet. No more leaks, on this original 100,000 mile engine........maybe for once i got lucky,i too HATE oil leaks.

 

[scottyb]

I'll admit, I'm a moron.

I must have done a sloppy job prepping the cap when I changed my rear main on the first round.

I went nutty yesterday with brake parts cleaner and started at the intake, all the way down. It was the main cap, not the main seal.

No more Exxon Valdez.