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still overheating

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i also have front mount my car was running 220+ and after installing the dual fan setup from gbody the car runs 200-210 when it is 108 outside. I drive mine everyday rain or shine. I would be concerned with the ticking noise not so much the overheating 210 is not that bad when it is 100deg out. Make sure your running antifreeze or some kind of water wetter or purple ice. It will keep the water from boiling and bubbles/steam is what kills them.
let nick micale hear this . It would surely give him another heart attack.. His car runs at 160-170 even when its 115 outside . At least thats what he said .. Mine runs at about 190=200 with an pte slic when its hot out .. Stock fan ..
 
I will get kit from napa today. Just had the stock manifold put back on at shop, it was welded and new gaskets put on. I do not hear the ticking noise until car gets over 200. Guess it could be gases are finally hot enough to cause leak. I have only had the car for 4 months, the previous owner was in Alabama and car was not driven much. Not as hot as in Texas also. This morning I took off radiator cap and started car. Car heated to 180 and fans are running. The was some coolant that backed out of top but could not see coolant running in radiator. I have rim so small ammo of rusty looking stuff in coolant but otherwise clean. When the car was running I noticed a small chirping noise that seems to be coming from water pump. I'm guessing a bad bearing, so hopefully this is problem, but will still buy block test kit and check. Thanks
 
Also, noticed on top of passenger side valve cover there is a rubber hose that comes off of metal tubing and makes a 90 degree turn at front of cover. This hose is somewhat kinked but do not see any other way to run this hose. Does anyone have something that might work better? I have seen other engine pics where all of this tubing is metal and no rubber hoses. Is the bottom radiator hose supposed to have a spring in it? It does not feel like mine has one.
 
let nick micale hear this . It would surely give him another heart attack.. His car runs at 160-170 even when its 115 outside . At least thats what he said .. Mine runs at about 190=200 with an pte slic when its hot out .. Stock fan ..

are you running front mount? I would love to have mine run that cool
 
Also, noticed on top of passenger side valve cover there is a rubber hose that comes off of metal tubing and makes a 90 degree turn at front of cover. This hose is somewhat kinked but do not see any other way to run this hose. Does anyone have something that might work better? I have seen other engine pics where all of this tubing is metal and no rubber hoses. Is the bottom radiator hose supposed to have a spring in it? It does not feel like mine has one.

that is common no worries on that hose
 
I just replaced the lower hose on the my T Type and the old hose did have the spring in it. The new Gates hose did not have the spring in it so I removed it from the old hose and put it in the new hose. It has to be there for a reason.
 
Found a gates hose that has spline wire for support and can be shaped. Guess I will pick one of these up when I get water pump today.
 
do you still have the baffle under the car that seals off the area below the radiator so the air entering the grill is forced to run over the radiator instead of just getting forced down and under? I doubt it's your pump.
 
Are you losing any coolant, even over a period of time.

check all your coolant hoses to make sure there are no tiny leaks. Also, maybe try by-passing the heater core. If you have a tiny leak, you may never see any coolant leaking, but when it gets up to temperature, the pressure in the cooling system could cause it to blow out

My first car (1978 Buick Regal Sport Coupe) had problems getting hot. It had a pin-hole leak in the heater core that would allow pressure to escape from the cooling system. Nothing was ever wet, but when I by-passed the heater core my cooling problems were cured.

I've had a number of POS cars since then that had this problem. Once I by-passed the heater core, it cured the cooling problem. The only drawback is that you'll have no heat during the winter. I live right down the road from you and I doubt I'll ever have the heat on in my GN.
 
Not sure if car still has shroud, will look when I get home. If not there this could be problem? It would make sense I guess that air is not being forced in at speed. How hard is to bypass heater core? Should I try this first before getting new pump? As I said can hear what sounds like a bad bearing coming from water pump.
 
if you're sure the water pump is where the noise is coming from the n fix it. You can Use a screw driver as a stethescope to listen to different items to make sure. And yes, that shroud missing could result in an issue like this.
 
Bypassing the heater core would involve disconnecting the heater hoses from the core, then connecting the supply hose to the return hose with an adaptor and a couple of clamps. The coolant would travel through both hoses, but never go through the heater core.

It's just a guess, and probably a long shot.

Based on your description of the sounds the water pump makes while it's running, it sounds like that's your issue.
 
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