Stock rebuild

[The_Six]

Hey guys Im hoping to have my engine pulled next week I over heateded it bad Temps in the 300s and blew a head gasket.
I now have a tick coming from the engine mot sure if its a lifter or somthing worse. Im hoping that its not going to be that bad.
My car has around 130k on it so Im thinking a rebuild would not hurt. I dont want to go all out unless I have too. If the cylinders and pistons look good at the least Im thinking new barings and have every thing honed out.
Here is the list of parts I was thinking so far any thing else you guys think Ill need. Im just trying to plan for this cost wize so I have an Idea I know what a total build is going to be since I would have some one do that for me but a stock build I think Ill try on my own.
Parts list I have so far.
1> Barings cam,main, and rod
2> Roller timing chain
3>gasket set sugestions on head gaskets would be nice would stock style be ok or should I upgrade.
4>lifters
5>oil pump
6>water pump
7>cam if needed wont know until engine is opened up
8>ARP head studs
9>ARP maint studs
10> ARP rod bolts
11> rings
12> heads redone and ported by Khai

Am I forgetting any thing? Idont plan on ever going faster then low 12s high 11s and if the time ever comes that I may want to Ill build a new short block for it then with all the good stuff.

 

[daily driver]

Do you know why it overheated?

 

[The_Six]

I had left it IDLing in the yard and got cought up in the house for 30 min or maybe a little longer and the fans had quit working and it over heated. I have been told it must of had other problems for this to happen. It had a new water pump on it and had over heated 3 days earlier from that . Dan at dsl told me he thinks I may have lifted a head on it earlier but not enough to blow the gasket completly and that all the over heating from water pump going out finnly help it let go in the yard when the fans quit but wouldnt be able to tell until the engine came a part . The car is almost completly stock origanl chip boost has never been turned up on it unless a past owner had changed it back to stock.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

If the engine got that hot, some parts may be warped. 300° is not good on engine parts.
Make sure that everything is double checked.

I would put felpro head gaskets on it, and also check your tolerances before bolting everything together.

Hopefully everything goes well
BW

 

[turbo nasty]

WOW that sux dude Hope the best on geting it back together. I saw 300 degress in your post yikes

Yeah do to that heat everything needs to be checked throughly..mag'd, sonic'd, etc

 

[The_Six]

Ya Im hoping the short block is going to be OK Im not giving the heads much of a chance Im planing on those being a lost couase. If I start it now it runs suprizingly well. It has a tick but not a knock im thinking it may be in the valve train not the cranke or rods. As soon as its apart Ill post some picks.

 

[The_Six]

I called around to check on machine shop cost to have the block cleaned and honed and the guy that I spoke to said they do a lot of TB engines and that even though I want to do a stock build if everything checks out that I should still use billet caps. I told him I was hoping to be able to use stock pistons and just new baring and rings. He said he would still do the main caps. What do you guys think should I do it even if I’m running stock pistons seems like most guys are cracking pistons before and thing else fails.

 

[The_Six]

Well got the engine out will spend most of Sunday taking it apart. I’m hoping it can just be cleaned up and put back together. So far the only parts I have are:

1. Revolution X1 flat tappet cam 206/212
2. GM hydraulic lifters
3. Harland Sharp 1.60 roller rockers
4. Roller cam button
5. ARP head studs
6. ARP main studs
7. Cam bearings
8. Replacement stock oil filter adapter and oil pump
9. Water pump
10. Gasket kit from full throttle with:

• Pair of head graphite stock type head gaskets
• Exhaust Gaskets
• Fuel Pump block off gasket
• O Rings for oil cooler
• Oil Pan Drain Plug Gasket
• Front cover gasket
• Plenum Gasket
• Throttle Body gasket
• Oil Pump Gasket
• Oil Pick up gasket
• Front Seal
• Cork Valve Cover gaskets
• Neoprene Oil Pan gasket
• Water pump gasket
• rear main seal

Things on my to get list:
ARP balancer bolt
Edelbrock Performer-Link True Roller Timing Chain Sets
Possibly Billet center main caps and TA performance balancer
I’m not going to order the rings, rod and main bearings until I get the clearances checked.
I am going to have the head checked out and if Im lucky and there ok Ill have a valve job done and some mild porting along with new springs.
Have I missed any thing any sugestions on any thing I should get and have on hand?
Thanks

 

[streetknight]

I would definitely do new rings and bearings while it's out, don't forget new cam bearings and freeze plugs while it's out.

Keep in mind your machine shop costs. If you go to Main studs you may have to line hone the block, which will be another $150 or so. Just install the studs and dial bore gauge to see. For high 11's like you said in the OP, I would go back with main bolts. If you do billet caps, it will have to be line bored which will probably run around $250 labor and also move the crank and cam a little closer together and you may have to run an undersized timing set.

These are just a couple things I've ran into on my build.

HTH

 

[The_Six]

Im going to get new new rings and bearings but im going to see if I need to bore the block our turn the cranke before I do.

 

[turbo39151]

I know you stated that you want to stay close to stock for budget purposes. However, I'm sure you are aware of the addiction that these car become. If you have the engine out, why not spend a few extra bucks here and there to insure that you only do this once.

I pulled the engine out of one of my GN's last year and I gradually accumulated parts for it. Granted, now it's a beast, but I am confident that I won't have to do the build again and it will be very healthy and handle anything I want to thow at it. Like you, I don't plan on racing but I always like to have the option to crank the boost and really fly if I am so inclined..


Yes it will cost a bit more but if you shop around you can always find a good deal...
Just something to consider.

Best of Luck.