Stock t-top anti twist mods

[xenogear_id]

sup guys? ok i have a 1987 GN t-top. it all stock good shape, t-tops dont leak, runs great. i wanna go faster. but i wanna do it without twisting the body. what mods can i do to keep it from twisting WITHOUT drilling or welding my car. i dont want to go crazy fast but i want to add some balls. i haul ass as it is but you know, its already turbo charged why not go alittle faster. any advise would be of good help.. thanks.......

 

[ES1]

1) Trunk X Braces
2) All body bushings
3) Under motor triangler braces with cross braces
4) 2 fender breaces

I made my trunk braces out of conduit, all others except the cross brace under IC, I bought at the junk yard.

My cars have 100,000 miles on them and they are very tight.

 

[ChavoLC2]

T-Top

Just as ES1 says I had all those mods on my old T-Top GN.

 

[Boost231]

theres really not much you can do without drilling a few small holes.

 

[Gary Wells]

I thought that the rear seat braces and the under the hood braces required drilling. Drilling a few small holes won't really hurt a lot.

 

[Boost231]

yes they do. thats why im not sure if there is anything he can do without drilling at least some small holes.

 

[Gary Wells]

Yes, there are some things that he can do without drilling holes.
As stated earlier, installing the missing body bushings & the GNX bushings will definitely help a little.
Kirban's frame brace and the 2 angular braces that connect to it do not require any hole drilling.
And Savitske Classic & Custom (SC&C) has 1 piece front frame braces back in stock again. Make sure that it will work with whatever factory mount intercooler you are planning on running.
And some company was making a transmission mount that was definitely stouter than a factory one.

 

[xenogear_id]

more..

ok braces is the way to go.. so what about the stock sway bar. dose this also need to be upgraded? again thanks for all the info and help.

 

[John N]

HAM makes solid body mounts that would help a lot. Hauin Ass Motorsports-Home

 

[Gary Wells]

Solid body mounts are generally considered to be a little too over the top for street use. That being said, depending upon the mileage of your car and the condition of the existing body mounts, as a minimum I would replace the missing factory body bushings if they have never been replaced and install the GNX body bushings, or replace all of the body bushings and install the missing body bushings & the GNX bushings. I would do the rear seat brace next, regardless of extra holes or not. Front sway bar is of a satisfactory size for most street & moderate handling applications. Several companies make or sell a 1" rear sway bar, or you can go to the 1 3/8" replica ATR rear sway bar, or the HRParts&Stuff rear sway bar depending on the depth of your pockets. Nobody that I am aware of makes a rear sway bar in either 1 1/8", 1 3/16", or 1 1/4", so an increase is either 1" which is not bad but not as effective as a 1 3/8" for general suspension applications, & the 1 3/8" is not as effective as the HRParts&Stuff bar, which eliminates the need for upper control bars, I believe. Mike & Marianne at Full Throttle Speed & Style (FTS&S) sell the 1 3/8replica ATR bar, probably as well as some other forum vendors. HTH
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Fwiw, Kirban's carries the rear seat braces & the stock factory replacement body bushings in sets in about any combination that you want to replace, FTS&S carry the 1 3/8" rear sway bar, & Paul Ferry at HRParts&Stuff carries the other rear sway bar mentioned.
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Drop back by and let us know how you like the suspension improvements as you do them.