salvageV6
Daily Driver
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- May 25, 2001
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- 20,941
And do you really want that big long cutoff battery switch sticking out the back of your car, especially if you drive it on the street. 
stock turbo times... besides Ed Brewer.....?
- Thread starter Blazer406
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salvageV6 said:And do you really want that big long cutoff battery switch sticking out the back of your car, especially if you drive it on the street.
I have thought about fabricating a flip down 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" panel with the kill switch on it for the track. It would have a quick pin. You get to the track... pull the pin... swivel it down below the bumper.... re-pin it.
I will come up with something.
This is true. If you cant get rid of it move it back, but correcting the IC is more important to hooking these cars than playing with weight. Get the power to send the rear down and avoid making the rear squat on launch. This will allow you to leave under more boost and 60" better.murphster said:Blazer406, while the numbers are impressive, I still don't think its worth the hassle. Tweaking the suspension geometry will probably yield better results. Just take a look at my Lightning. Now there's a weight disparity if I've ever seen one. The gas tank is in the middle too, not even over the rear wheels. Adjustments to the suspension, including shocks, height, pre-load, etc enable these trucks to dip into the 1.6s for 60fts on a regular basis. My point is that while it will indeed make a big difference to move the battery, other things can be done to improve traction while not being such a pain in the butt. :biggrin:
On the other hand, it may not even improve traction that much. If you consider things like the torque from the engine and the actual force to the tires at launch, the CG probably plays a more minor role. Once you know where the CG is, you adjust the suspension to optimize it.
Maybe I should throw in some physics calculations to go with those engineering calcs.j/k
I can't say whether it's worth the trouble- only the ones who have BTDT can say. But seems to me that moving the battery is clearly something that will help. Even if you have done all the other suspension tuning advised by C&CGN, Murphster, et al, the battery change would still make a difference. Might be only 0.01, but if you're looking to get all you can, that includes 0.01, too. Besides, improving the weight distribution helps cornering, and braking, as well as launch, while a lot of things done to help launch are not good for cornering a braking.
Don't have any idea about the numbers, but I know there are some people who have gotten to 12.00 and stop there (officially, anyway) because of the changes they would need to make to run legally in the 11s.
Don't have any idea about the numbers, but I know there are some people who have gotten to 12.00 and stop there (officially, anyway) because of the changes they would need to make to run legally in the 11s.
Update.... went back to the track... with re-located battery..... didn't get everything done I wanted to..... like removing the front sway bar..... and still had 32 psi in the new 275/50 MT drag radials..... went a 1.71 60' time on a 5 psi launch. I hope there is alot more there on a harder launch... still .1 better to 60' than my previous best 60' is at least going in the correct direction.
New times in my sig..... in search of 11's on the stock turbo/stock longblock full weight car.....
New times in my sig..... in search of 11's on the stock turbo/stock longblock full weight car.....
NJVetteGuy
I'd rather be racing...
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2004
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- 375
Blazer406 said:
I got a 1.71 on 26-11.50-15 MT ET Streets, but with an open rear
There's more in your 60', try coming out with a little more boost. I was dead hooking, car was bone stock except k&n filter, tires, and thrasher chip. Front swayabr was missing when I got the car, that undoubtedly helped.UNGN said:
I have mixed emotions about the trap speed. It was into a 10-15 mph headwind most of the afternoon. I also screwed up my tune before I went to the track with the dutt neck i/c.... it was lean on the big end..... like 650mV lean....
I didn't expect just replacing the stock i/c with a dutt neck i/c would have leaned it out so......I kept it out of knock with more alky... but it was still lean.....I upped the fuel in the chip with every run... and ended up 107.69 mph on the last pass.... still was lean.......My converter is locking as soon as it goes into second.....I do not have a "blow down tube" some refer to as necessary for the converter to properly lock. I am not real sure if it is absolutely necessary..... it feels like it is locking to me.....I am going to send it back to Precision for a check-up anyway soon... and a re-stall if it checks out ok..... cause my DS logs show about 4000 RPM @ 5psi .... which is too loose for my combo.....
I really feel like I might have made more trap speed if my 02's would have been low 11's on the wideband... but instead were high 11's if not more when I crossed the line....
I'll look at the datalogs when I get a chance and see if I can tell what RPM I crossed the line...... some runs were run in D where it wouldn't go into OD... and one or two.... I let it go into OD.... which it did..... right at the traps.....
I went 12.30's@109.5 w/1.72 60'
Stock turbo, Dut. Neck, Stock injectors, Stock Engine, Thrasher 108 chip, TCS 9x11 (2800stall), etc, etc.
It had alot of little stuff done.
This was thru the exhaust and on pumpgas/alky, with an open rearend.
I removed alot of weight from it - but couldn't get the 60's consistant, and it went 12.30-.40's @ 111mph.
Timing is the key to making a stock turbo car fast.
Stock turbo, Dut. Neck, Stock injectors, Stock Engine, Thrasher 108 chip, TCS 9x11 (2800stall), etc, etc.
It had alot of little stuff done.
This was thru the exhaust and on pumpgas/alky, with an open rearend.
I removed alot of weight from it - but couldn't get the 60's consistant, and it went 12.30-.40's @ 111mph.
Timing is the key to making a stock turbo car fast.
Nocooler said:
How much timing were you running? I am currently at 25/21
I was thinking about investing in either a power plate or a Hemco street upper...... but don't know how much it will pick me up.....
New F bod radiator and a ministarter.... and no front swaybar should take at least 50# off the front end.... that ought to be worth some in the 60'
What shocks did everyone have to cut their 60' time.... I'm still all stock.....
I am running some new MT Drag Radials.... 275/50/15
It did run it several times.....in D..... but it felt like it was laying down on the big end (possibly b/c it was lean)......that is when I tried it letting it shift into OD if it wanted....... Gotta fix that regardless.....
The runs as a whole felt pretty lazy compared to my 40-100 blasts I do occasionally on the street.... except for the launch of course...... kinda reinforces my theory I screwed my tune up when I installed the dutt neck i/c...... now that it is on there... I'll have to work up to getting it tuned..... my TT chip has WOT fuel adjustment +/- 10%..... I had it (prior to the dutt neck i/c) on the -10% setting (116 on the proper BLM table cell).... this yielded a WOT blast starting in the mid 10's and building to 11.3 or so..... good tune I thought..... Before it was over..... I had the fuel bumped up to like 134 which actually adds like 4% to the WOT fuel table or there abouts..... at that point DS showed lowest O2 reading in the first 1/8 at 80X mV..... and 6 hundred something on the second 1/8 (still lean).
Gotta hot-wire the fuel pump before I go back..... that is the only thing I think could cause my fuel map to go that far off..... and only after I put the i/c on... at that......
It did run it several times.....in D..... but it felt like it was laying down on the big end (possibly b/c it was lean)......that is when I tried it letting it shift into OD if it wanted....... Gotta fix that regardless.....
The runs as a whole felt pretty lazy compared to my 40-100 blasts I do occasionally on the street.... except for the launch of course...... kinda reinforces my theory I screwed my tune up when I installed the dutt neck i/c...... now that it is on there... I'll have to work up to getting it tuned..... my TT chip has WOT fuel adjustment +/- 10%..... I had it (prior to the dutt neck i/c) on the -10% setting (116 on the proper BLM table cell).... this yielded a WOT blast starting in the mid 10's and building to 11.3 or so..... good tune I thought..... Before it was over..... I had the fuel bumped up to like 134 which actually adds like 4% to the WOT fuel table or there abouts..... at that point DS showed lowest O2 reading in the first 1/8 at 80X mV..... and 6 hundred something on the second 1/8 (still lean).
Gotta hot-wire the fuel pump before I go back..... that is the only thing I think could cause my fuel map to go that far off..... and only after I put the i/c on... at that......
My car runs 12.1's @ 109-110 and 60's in the 1.6's but one that thing pisses me off compared to other cars is the low mph and the VERY high launch boosts that I need to get the ET's I do. I HAVE to launch at 15ps or higher in order to run these ET's. If I launch at 8 psi I run 12.8's even tho my car spools fast as hell.
There are A LOT of things I could do to get my car to run approx 11.7-11.8's but it takes away from the "stock" daily driver.
Question: What RPM's are your car's shifting at? Mine is around 4800-5000 no higher so I will need to raise the shift RPM to see if I gain any MPH. I've run timing anywhere from 25 *to 28* and mph never changed.
ks
There are A LOT of things I could do to get my car to run approx 11.7-11.8's but it takes away from the "stock" daily driver.
Question: What RPM's are your car's shifting at? Mine is around 4800-5000 no higher so I will need to raise the shift RPM to see if I gain any MPH. I've run timing anywhere from 25 *to 28* and mph never changed.
ks
Lower the shift rpm (4600-4800) and run the tallest slick you can get in there. Raising the shift rpm will slow you down. Crank the boost as high as possible. The lower the rpm, the higher you can crank the boost and still make more power. You will be blowing nothing but hot air at 4800 rpm and 25+psi boost. Way out of the efficiency range of the turbo. My 111mph runs were with 26*. I ran a 29.5in slick.KEVINS said:Question: What RPM's are your car's shifting at? Mine is around 4800-5000 no higher so I will need to raise the shift RPM to see if I gain any MPH. I've run timing anywhere from 25 *to 28* and mph never changed.
ks
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