Street/strip

[CGASTON]

I am wondering what is the norm for the everyday street/strip cars. What are you doing for suspension? Are you upgrading it with H&R parts, Metco, DSE or any other suspension. If so what system is the best? How does it handle on the street and at the track? Or are most just sticking with the stock system? I don't want to lose the soft ride, but then again I want to go straight and fast.

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[forcefed3.8's]

HR bar and bushings. Poly bushings are stiff and bouncy. Remove front sway bar. As far as shocks, I always ran cheap yellow Monroe shocks on all corners into the 10's.

 

[SHADOWII]

H&R bar,lower and upper ca's, kyb's all around, drag shocks for the track, jury's still out on total removal of the frt. sway bar, GTA's w/bf goodrich t/a comp's all around.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Alot of guys on here are proud of 1.7 60's. These cars have enough torque to get in the 1.5's running in the low 12's, and even low 1.5's to 1.4's running in the 11's. I have been 1.51 launching with 7psi with only 1 air bag, Monroe yellows, and drag radials in a low 11 sec car (mid to high 11's with a 1.7 60'). The car still had the stock sway bar and stock 90,000 mile busings. You have to ease into launching, don't start at 14psi, or think a transbrake is the answer. I always start at 5psi, and go up 1 or 2 psi, and find where it spins. A transbreak is great for heads up racing, or large turbos. IMO, 11,12, and even 10 sec cars don't need them, and when running a radial without working on the suspension creates problems. Sorry for going off topic, but there are alot of guys thinking there is alot more needed than there really is.

 

[Mr.Spool]

1.58 60ft,stock suspension,drag radials,both sway bars in,with alot of practice and combo dialed in.1.52 60ft,metco uppers and lowers,hr rear sway bar,front bar out,drag radials,first time going after the 60ft on a new combo on a light tune.plus the car drives so much better with the upgrades.

 

[Mr.Spool]

and all footbrake launches.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Poly bushings up front, stock sway bars front and rear. 12 yr old KYB shocks, HR Parts budget rear lower arms, Jegster adjustable rear uppers. Foot brake at 0-1 psi boost and 28x9 slicks it pulls 1.55 60 foots. I run 17x8 wheels on the street 275 40 NT01 rear tires that only pull 1.80 60 foots so far on a poorly prepped track. 17's made the biggest difference of all the changes I made.

 

[Black Air]

Alot of guys on here are proud of 1.7 60's. These cars have enough torque to get in the 1.5's running in the low 12's, and even low 1.5's to 1.4's running in the 11's. I have been 1.51 launching with 7psi with only 1 air bag, Monroe yellows, and drag radials in a low 11 sec car (mid to high 11's with a 1.7 60'). The car still had the stock sway bar and stock 90,000 mile busings. You have to ease into launching, don't start at 14psi, or think a transbrake is the answer. I always start at 5psi, and go up 1 or 2 psi, and find where it spins. A transbreak is great for heads up racing, or large turbos. IMO, 11,12, and even 10 sec cars don't need them, and when running a radial without working on the suspension creates problems. Sorry for going off topic, but there are alot of guys thinking there is alot more needed than there really is.

 

[Black Air]

Alot of guys on here are proud of 1.7 60's. These cars have enough torque to get in the 1.5's running in the low 12's, and even low 1.5's to 1.4's running in the 11's. I have been 1.51 launching with 7psi with only 1 air bag, Monroe yellows, and drag radials in a low 11 sec car (mid to high 11's with a 1.7 60'). The car still had the stock sway bar and stock 90,000 mile busings. You have to ease into launching, don't start at 14psi, or think a transbrake is the answer. I always start at 5psi, and go up 1 or 2 psi, and find where it spins. A transbreak is great for heads up racing, or large turbos. IMO, 11,12, and even 10 sec cars don't need them, and when running a radial without working on the suspension creates problems. Sorry for going off topic, but there are alot of guys thinking there is alot more needed than there really is.

Are you saying a brake is not good for lunching in a 10 sec capable car?

 

[SHADOWII]

Are you saying a brake is not good for lunching in a 10 sec capable car?

No, you mis-quoted forcefed3.8, he said "even 10 sec. cars don't need them.." In other words, it can be accomplished off the foot brake, w/practice of course.

 

[bad V6]

there are alot of guys thinking there is alot more needed than there really is.

Foot brake launch, 1.48 60' thus far on 275/60R15 MT drag radials, Comp Engineering drag shocks, boxed lower control arm w/poly bushings, air bags, and the front sway bar removed.

 

[Black Air]

No, you mis-quoted forcefed3.8, he said "even 10 sec. cars don't need them.." In other words, it can be accomplished off the foot brake, w/practice of course.

Oh ok because I can't stall my car past 3 or 4 psi before it starts pushing the front tires!

 

[SHADOWII]

Oh ok because I can't stall my car past 3 or 4 psi before it starts pushing the front tires!

That's a common problem, that's why I have the trans-brake also, I took the easy way out.

 

[TexasT]

Are you saying a brake is not good for lunching in a 10 sec capable car?

I take it as he is saying you don't need a T-brake to get 1.5x 60ft. Or at least he doesn't.

A foot braked 10sec car has a lot of mid and upper power.

 

[Black Air]

That's a common problem, that's why I have the trans-brake also, I took the easy way out.

Yeah but i hear some guys can get up to 12 lbs of boost or more on the brake?

 

[Black Air]

I take it as he is saying you don't need a T-brake to get 1.5x 60ft. Or at least he doesn't.

A foot braked 10sec car has a lot of mid and upper power.

I've been thinking of trying out the
QA1 Precision Products 5214 - QA1 Anti-Hop Bars from summit that change the intersect point on the factory 4 link, as apposed to the Spohn and HR Parts N stuff sway bar. way cheaper too $141.00 as apposed to Spohns sway bar $399.99 and HRs over $500!!

 

[charlief1]

If those are what I think they are they have a tendancy of ripping the ears off the axle. If those are for the lowers then I'm wrong.

 

[Black Air]

If those are what I think they are they have a tendancy of ripping the ears off the axle. If those are for the lowers then I'm wrong.

All they do is change the intersect point to make the suspension more aggressive, the stock positions basically don't intersect so there is no real leverage.

 

[charlief1]

All they do is change the intersect point to make the suspension more aggressive, the stock positions basically don't intersect so there is no real leverage.

If you're trying to get a better IC out of the car look up baseline suspension. Keving has an IC relocation kit with arms ect that bolts in and doesn't stress the suspension like those bars can.

 

[Black Air]

If you're trying to get a better IC out of the car look up baseline suspension. Keving has an IC relocation kit with arms ect that bolts in and doesn't stress the suspension like those bars can.

What bars are you referring to? What I'm talking about are not bars, they bolt to the rear end housing and to the top control arms to give them a better angle. I'm not referring to the HR SWAY BAR OR SPOHNS SWAY BAR.