Stuffing cylinders

[TurboDave]

OK, as most of you have figured out by now, I'm a tuner, not an assembler, hence the rooky questions.

1. Got the rings installed and ready to stuff the piston/rod assy's into the block. Are there any special preps to do to the rings or cylinders?

2. I have looked at two sources for ring orientation and they don't agree. The service manual shows the oil ring spacer joint 90° from the front of the engine(pointing to engine right).??? and of course the oil rings 120° either side from that point. Then the 2nd ring opposite the spacer joint, pointing to engine left, and the top ring opposite of that pointing to engine right.

While the sheet that I got with my Sealed power rings show the oil ring spacer joint directly over the pin boss, which means it should be pointing to engine front, and top two rings arranged similar to above. (ring two opposite spacer joint, top ring over spacer joint).


Those of you that are assemblers, how do solve 1. and 2.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Dave, I would go with the sealed power manufacturers spec.

Clean the cylinder walls real good with some solvent before installing.

 

[TurboDave]

Any kind of lub. required either to the cylinders, or rings?

 

[turbofabricator]

Use ATF to lube the cylinder walls (unless the engine is a spare and it's gonna sit for awhile, then use 30wt.) Install the rings dry. Wipe a bit of ATF on the skirts just prior to sliding in the bore. Use a wrinkel band conpressor. Cheap and has less friction and holds on the deck better than a std. compressor. (taper wall comoressors are the best, but too pricey for occasional/one-time use.) Orient the rings as follows: Top ring over one end of the wrist pin, second ring over the other wrist pin, and clock the oil rings 180* pretty much anywhere. Rings rotate around the piston as it is running, so no real concern with clocking. 180* apart is adaquate, placement I have not found improvement or issue with.
By lubing the cylinder with ATF, ring break-in is real fast. Just start it up, and run it for 20 min at 1800rpm. Checking for leaks and issues. Then pull filter and cut it apart to check for debris. (there WILL be some) change oil/filter. Warm engine up to operating temp and then slowly load the converter to about 4-5 psi and then slam the throttle to the floor. At that point the engine is "broke in" (or broken) and then you can drive it like you stole it. Seriously, the only thing that needs break in is the rings (boost does that for you real quick) and cam/lifters (flat tappet) The crank should never touch a bearing, EVER. That is what oil is for.

 

[TurboDave]

Use ATF to lube the cylinder walls (unless the engine is a spare and it's gonna sit for awhile, then use 30wt.) Install the rings dry. Wipe a bit of ATF on the skirts just prior to sliding in the bore. Use a wrinkel band conpressor. Cheap and has less friction and holds on the deck better than a std. compressor. (taper wall comoressors are the best, but too pricey for occasional/one-time use.) Orient the rings as follows: Top ring over one end of the wrist pin, second ring over the other wrist pin, and clock the oil rings 180* pretty much anywhere. Rings rotate around the piston as it is running, so no real concern with clocking. 180* apart is adaquate, placement I have not found improvement or issue with.
By lubing the cylinder with ATF, ring break-in is real fast. Just start it up, and run it for 20 min at 1800rpm. Checking for leaks and issues. Then pull filter and cut it apart to check for debris. (there WILL be some) change oil/filter. Warm engine up to operating temp and then slowly load the converter to about 4-5 psi and then slam the throttle to the floor. At that point the engine is "broke in" (or broken) and then you can drive it like you stole it. Seriously, the only thing that needs break in is the rings (boost does that for you real quick) and cam/lifters (flat tappet) The crank should never touch a bearing, EVER. That is what oil is for.

Thanks!! This short block wont be going in anytime soon so I'll lightly lube the cylinders with 30wt. I bought one of those wrinkle band compressors last week and it really works sllick for such a cheapy.

Right now I have the crank in and torqued down. Since it's going to sit for some time I put assembly lube on the main bearings instead of oil, figured I'd do the same with the rod bearings.