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sway bar problem (pics to show problem)

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Chaddud84

New Member
Joined
May 16, 2007
Messages
16


what is the best way to fix this? its where the front sway bar used to connect but rusted out. it sucks because thats the only spot on the car that was damaged by rust. if anyone can tell me what I can do to fix this id appreciate it.

-Chad
 
Put another frame under the car.:biggrin: Seriously though I would cut out the rot and have a new section welded in. Then cut a hole in the side of the frame rail just big enough to gain access to tighten the nut and bolt. Your not going to have the bolt thread into the frame any more. Then touch up the area with some Por 15.
 
Rent a plasma cutter and cut a rectangle out of the frame where the rust is. Then cut a new piece of steel(similar size and thickness) weld it in with a stick welder or a mig. Grind the weld so that it is flat and then rebolt or anchor the sway bar link.

If you are unable I'm sure that you can find a welding shop or a fab shop to do this for a decent price.
 
i thought that might be what I would have to do. thanks guys, i appreciate it.

-Chad
 
Rent a plasma cutter and cut a rectangle out of the frame where the rust is. Then cut a new piece of steel(similar size and thickness) weld it in with a stick welder or a mig. Grind the weld so that it is flat and then rebolt or anchor the sway bar link.

Before re-welding the new piece back in, don't forget to tack weld a nut on the back side of it (which will be inside the frame once welded...) so you can screw the bolt in...

Claude ;)
 
get a new bushing bracket and use it as a template to drill and tap holes into a piece of 1/4" metal that you can (somehow) slide into the inside of the frame and then bolt the bar up to that, with the stock frame sandwiched in between that piece and the bushing bracket. no welding involved, but you might want to cut out as much of the rusty metal as you can get out and spray some rustoleum or something on it..since it's apart, you might as well do the same thing to the oither side, as well.
 
Agreed...

+1

Or get rid of it and buy an HR rear bar. :)

Underboost is correct... The H & R rear sway bar is designed in a way that eliminates the front sway bar without screwing up handling. It will also correct the twisting factor our cars undergo when bringing up the boost under braking and the launch. The price is steep at around $500.00, but by the time U get done fixing that rusted area, U might be close to that $500.00. I believe they are a supporting vendor of this site and has a good description of the product, with pics and tests.
 
HR bar or not, you still need to fix the rot before it gets worse.
 
I have pieced out a lot of rusty Buicks... I would look that frame over good before I did any repairs on it.. Front sway bar has some deep pitting so I believe the rust is worse than you think . Oh I have had the rear rails rot but never the front like yours ..
 
I definitely am going to be fixing the rust. And of course I care about my car :D, I've been wanting one of these for as long as I can remember. I haven't had the chance to look over the rest of the frame thoroughly, but from what I can tell thats the only spot. I think I'm going to take what turbomatt said and cut out all the rust, re-weld a piece back in, and then POR-15 the area. I don't want to send this to a shop because I want to do this car MYSELF.

If I re-weld a piece in, will it be strong enough?

thanks for the input guys

-Chad
 
I definitely am going to be fixing the rust. And of course I care about my car :D, I've been wanting one of these for as long as I can remember. I haven't had the chance to look over the rest of the frame thoroughly, but from what I can tell thats the only spot. I think I'm going to take what turbomatt said and cut out all the rust, re-weld a piece back in, and then POR-15 the area. I don't want to send this to a shop because I want to do this car MYSELF.

If I re-weld a piece in, will it be strong enough?

thanks for the input guys

-Chad

If its real bad i've seen a few frames on the board lately...might be worth lookin in to
 
It will be as strong or stronger than original. As long as you use the same thickness steel. The weld will be stronger than the steel as long as you have good heat penetration with the weld.
 
Thanks for the advice matt. I can't wait to get this taken care of. Do you know where to get replacement bushings? the one came off so I have nothing to put back in.

-Chad
 
Found the same problem on my car when swapping in a 36mm F-body bar. Everything looked good until I started poking and grinding, so it's not a bad idea to check this area out on your cars as this car has hardly seen rain in ten years.

Conrad Lozier in Woodstock Ontario completed this repair for me:

Motortopia: View Photo #32 in the “Rear Frame rail repair” Album

The one brace for the steering box inside the DS rail causes the crud to build up as it has a gusset that goes to the bottom of the rail. This gusset was completely gone on mine, but Conrad welded the tubes on the new outside section so it's stronger than before. I bought some front rails from somone parting out a car - only ended up needing the DS though, and the PS only needed a small patch. Conrad is also the guy who makes the aftermarket rear rails - which were also installed on my car a few years ago.
 
Check the rear frame rails above and behind the rear wheels. This is the first place these usually rust. Also might want to check the rear...or ALL the body mount holes as the bushings always hold dirt and moisture...as you see in your sway bar mount:eek: . If you have acess to one, an old riding lawn mower frame is the same thickness or slightly thicker. That is what I used to patch body mount holes on my GN frame. Worked slick but it has to be heated to form fit. HTH:D
 
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