synthetic oil and rebuilt engines?

[Razor]

Thats it..im going to drain my pan and put duralube in my motor that way I can spray dirt and water and it still runs..

As to your builder..I would bet he lined bored it without the heads torqued down. See the blocks unless all together will tweak a bit, and line boring it while its in the un-tweaked position, will cuase a misalignment. Hence the damaged mains. If there was debris, it would migrate through all the bearings. If the crank was not cut correctly, plastiguage would have shown this problem upon initial assembly.

Hence my theory of the line bore.

Its not rocket science to assemble a short block. It only gets complicated when certain machining steps are skewed.

How bout the thrust on the crank?

Ohh..synthetic oil unless it had water,debris, etc contaminated, didnt cuase your problem.

Lastly this is all under the assumption you werent hammering on the motor into knock city cuasing the bearings to get crunched. And KR on the motor WAS ALWAYS MONITORED to assure zero detonation.

 

[clean86]

IMHO syn oils made by any company tend to drain down very easy.

Fact: syn oils will get to the bearings faster.
Fact: They will also drain off them faster.

Fact: If you prime a motor with strait 50 then drain it and run it in with a 10/30 the 50wt will stay on the bearings,, not drain off.

So who cares if syn oils get to bearings faster,,, Heavy oils get there and stay!!!!!!!

 

[bruce]

Well, for those that want the best oil, you need to look at the new Ferrari Enzo.

You have to use a certain Shell Oil to keep your warranty valid, and it's $60 a qt. Yes, $60 a quart. $300 for an oil change, ya, there ya go, oh and that's just oil, no filter.

Now let's see who wants to run the best oil possible. LOL

 

[bruce]

Back in 1970, I spent a week in Gasoling Alley during pre qualifing. I had a Gasoline Alley Pass, and could walk into any garage. And guess what?. Reguardless of the decals on the car, the majority of oil in every crankcase that I saw filled used Valvoline Racing. All. Everyone.
Since then, I've used Valvoline Racing in everything I run hard, and have yet to have a lubrication based failure.
Not to mention at BRE and at a R+D engine shop they also used it.
When folks had problems with the econo roller cams and they were dieing in 100 miles, I went 6K miles before showing any TRACE wear signs of damage. That's enough testimony for me.

 

[StagedGN]

I wonder what Comsumer Reports rated the best ?

 

[Ormand]

Back in 1970, what kind of PC did you have, Bruce? Oh, that's right, there weren't any. And how about electronics on the race cars? Oh, right, we're talking about 1970! Don't think there were any synthetic oils in 1970, but I'm not sure, and it doesn't matter anyway. The point is that there has been a tremendous amount of progress in many things in the last 33 years, and to ignore it is unreasonable, IMO. Maybe the racers at Indy are STILL running Valvoline racing oil, I don't know that, either. But I know that racing oil is formulated for racing, and is not necessarily the best for street use. Yeah, the oil companies have run tests to show that synth is superior. I ignore those. But there are tests by the auto MANUFACTURES that show the same thing. And by independent groups, such as the car magazines. But hey, don't let me confuse you with facts.

 

[turbo nasty]

Dino vs. Synthetic

If you get both the best dino and the best syn.

And test the basic properties of both .

Detergency, pour point, viscosity index, flashpoint, zinc content, etc. And even with some manufactures like royal purple they even have additives in all their base stock that inhibit friction.

Point being, the synthetic will rain supreme hands down. You just can't make dino juice lose properties that are inherent to dino juice like flash point, etc. It is a mineral base..period

And as with anything there is crap synthetic and crap dino oil.

I am talking about the best only.

My buck and a quota