T Type Century Wagon

MNcarbturbo

What's Fuel Injection?
#21
Wagon still isn't swapped. Been just driving it as is in between working on my 2+2. It runs so good that it's tough to justify taking apart until it's winter. I have been slowly hoarding parts here and there. Grabbed a 200R4 crossmember and turbo and heat shield.

Also decided to abandon the LC2 dash swap. The guy with a SBC swapped rusty 84 GN in town decided to not part the car out. Good news is I robbed the fiber optic speed sensor and VSS buffer out of my 2+2 (since it's LS and DBW with a t56 it didn't need it anyways). I am pretty sure it will fit in my stock 80 cluster and feed the ECM everything it needs for DCFCO and TC lockup.

I did redo the headliner. My glue was about 6 years old and must have been going bad, it's already sagging in the rearmost piece after the first day in the sun. Not sure if I am going to be able to peel it off again and reglue it or if I will have to buy more fabric and do it again.
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Other problems, trying to find my return fuel line situation. Have an earls saginaw line to AN adaptor and tried a AN 90 but it was too wide of a bend. Got a hydro JIC -6 90 but its also too tall. Anybody have a solution to getting a return line on the stock FPR? Hits the coolant crossover about 3/8 too tall. I could resort to having my TIG welder guy cut the hex out of the adapter and butt welding the halves together or just welding a female 90 AN line directly to this adaptor fitting but if something is available off the shelf I'd like to go that direction.
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#22
Other problems, trying to find my return fuel line situation. Have an earls saginaw line to AN adaptor and tried a AN 90 but it was too wide of a bend. Got a hydro JIC -6 90 but its also too tall. Anybody have a solution to getting a return line on the stock FPR? Hits the coolant crossover about 3/8 too tall. I could resort to having my TIG welder guy cut the hex out of the adapter and butt welding the halves together or just welding a female 90 AN line directly to this adaptor fitting but if something is available off the shelf I'd like to go that direction.
Is a stock return line an option? If so, you can cut it along a straight section in the steel tubing and add an AN compression fitting to it. It did this for both the feed and return lines in my '64.



 

MNcarbturbo

What's Fuel Injection?
#25
Well the swap was kicked off this weekend. Actually the first running driving car I have ever pulled the engine on so it was a bit tough for me to yank it but I had enough with under 100 hp.
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Coming out
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Made a frame extension for the 2004r crossmember
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Overhead upside down welding sucks but its burned in
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And wouldn't you know it
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MNcarbturbo

What's Fuel Injection?
#26
Found a sport coupe hood off FB marketplace, it has some Bondo but the hoods aren't easy to find and I got it for $75. I'll have to study gun weld and pull that dent area and do some body work.

Also got a center console missing the lid and the turbo dash cluster. Not sure if I'll swap seats to buckets and put the console in but I'll for sure put the turbo dash cluster in.
 

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MNcarbturbo

What's Fuel Injection?
#29
Put an AN tube adaptor on the 3/8 feed line and did some rewiring of the astro sender
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Tanks back in
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Pulled the trans pan
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Its a "low performance" CRF code 2004r that came out of my 86 GP 2+2. I am going to cut the governor down to BRF specs and change the filter and put it back in. Yeah it should be rebuilt and should have this and that but ohh well. It also got a D9 converter out of the same 305 SBC Grand Prix. At least its a 4.1 with a stock turbo so I'm not totally going to get killed with lag.
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And thats not good news. Trans only had 60k on it but hasn't moved a car since 1998. The 2+2 also pulled a boat in texas in the late 80's according to the previous owner so we will see if it moves. I idled it around the block behind the LS2 in my 2+2 before I swapped it to T56 so i know it at least had 1st gear and reverse in idle :)
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Found a rough but complete 78 sport coupe with the turbo dash cluster. Going to take the clock out of this dash and put the clock delete plate out of the existing dash in the wagon and put a $40 summit tach in place of the clock.

Don't know what I want to do for the boost gage since green yellow orange light is useless and i dont have the switches under the hood to control it, but i dont want to cut that gage pod apart.
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MNcarbturbo

What's Fuel Injection?
#31
Anyone want to teach me how to calibrate the cam sensor?

I read the vortex buicks method using a volt meter.
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I don't have voltage to the harness yet so i built a jumper harness putting 12V to the red wire and ground to the back wire. I should see the 0-2 to 12V switch at some point when probing between the blue signal wire and ground. I see a 0 to .2V switch.

The only time I can see a 0 to 12 volt switch is when i probe between the 12V hot in and the signal wire.

What an I doing wrong? I pulled the sensor out of the car to bench test.

This is what I get when I do the correct method probing between the signal wire with my red lead and the ground lead with the black lead of the meter.

This is the cam sensor with the reluctor wheel gap positioned perfectly in between the pickup sensor of the cap, 0 volts
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Turned the sensor 90 degrees and I get .2 volts
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I get the correct behavior mentioned in the how to when i use the "incorrect method" and probe between 12V hot in and the signal wire out.
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The logic of the sensor I understand is to turn 12V on and off which the PCM reads through that blue wire, I never see voltage across that blue wire when measured to the ground. It seems like this sensor is switching between the blue and red wire, where it should be switching between the blue and black wires.

Thoughts? Bad sensor?

I wanted to get this sensor in position now when the radiator and intercooler is out to make easy access.