T Type Century Wagon

[MNcarbturbo]

Maf translator was on backorder for a few weeks and then USPS decided to ship it from Michigan to LA and then back to IA so that took well over a week to ship it.

Good news I installed it and the engine runs good now. 20psi of oil pressure when hot, fans work, starts good. Alternator might be bad? Not sure.

Bought a 4.3 blazer MAF from the salvage yard for $16 since its the same as an LT1 maf.

Good news, it runs awesome and drove it around the block. Bad news it wont shift out of 2nd. I did have a bad 200r4 that went to nuetral when it tried going into 3rd but this one just stays in 2nd (I think its 2nd it might be first?) The trans hasn't officially moved a car for 20 years though and had goop in the pan when I took it apart. The trans came out of my 2+2 before I t56 swapped it and i only idled it around the garage and driveway so I have no history.

Trans might be shot, but I will adjust the TV cable again. I did do the BRF clone governor mod on it and theres a chance I screwed something up there, but I kinda doubt it since I did it on my drawthrough cutlass 3 years ago and it was fine. Had fluid checked too and it was fine. .

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Got the trans to shift through all 4 gears, the TV cable was just out of adjustment.

Got the alternator to charge too, just had to wire up an auxiliary energize wire to the alternator since my dash wire is either bad or i soldered it wrong in my splice harness. Might also be different between the older 2 pin alternator and the newer CS130 style.

Took it for a drive last night. Car is cutting out on light throttle tip in and feels like it might be missing on and off at idle and higher speed cruise like 65+. Also backfired at low boost roll in but runs good if you get it past a certain "dead spot" in the fuel map. I havnt gone over 50% throttle since i dont know the fuel or spark or boost level. I need to hook up a gauge.

Car has a 42lb chip, 93 octane, GTP 37lb injectors (or 42 at 4bar which is the plan), new NGK ur5 plugs, new wires, MAF translator and 3" lt1 style maf, walbro 255 in tank hotwired and all new fuel lines.

I should get a wideband on it and check the fuel pressure along with getting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. It's driveable just not to the point i feel safe beating on it.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Finally ohm'ed out my coil and she's dead. 2 of the 3 tower pairs are open, only one tower pair checked out at 11.8k ohm. I'm surprised it runs as decent as it does honestly. For those 90 seconds after it starts up before it gets hot and starts misfiring, is sure runs good! lol!

Looks like the coil and module need to get changed. Found a local good used one I am going to pick up and give a shot. Slow and steady progress


I hope to grab the sport coupe regal hood I grabbed of CL in december next weekend. I'll pull the dent, do some body work and paint to match the car and swap the hood. I was concerned I needed it for hood clearance but at this point it is going on just to look cool.

 

[Mark T-TB]

Nice - sounds like you are getting there

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Bought a coil and module and swapped it out, fixed the miss, car is officially to daily driver duty. It has a small oil leak from the turbo and oil pressure feed line tee I have to fix, and I have a new water temp gauge sender and NB 02 sensor on hand that I have to pull the turbo off to get to.

Car makes 10PSI pretty easy, Im a bit surprised it doesnt make the 14ish like GN should but it has an adjustable WG actuator from back in the day on it so it might just be adjusted to make low boost.

Next up is a scanmaster to get the BLM's adjusted, probably get a wideband 02 sensor on it, and get a boost actuated exhaust cutout on and take it to the track in early may. If it runs a 12.99 I'll be happy. Might be a stretch since its stock everything minus 20 extra cubes, air filter, exhaust and chip, a 202/202 erson cam, and I will throw my drag radials on. Biggest worry is the stock CRF valve body 1986 original 2004R with nothing more than a governor modification and a new filter and fluid !

 

[Mark T-TB]

Bought a coil and module and swapped it out, fixed the miss, car is officially to daily driver duty ... !

Sounds like success great job saving a cool old car!

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Grabbed my turbo regal hood and some parts from the salvage yard this weekend. Got a rear window wing (actually 2 since why not), another gauge cluster with bezel in real nice shape so i dont have to refinish mine, some missing trim pieces for the car, and unrelated olds parts for my next project.

Hood needs some work but these things are not getting easy to find anymore.

 

[liquidh8]

Score on the hood.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Been daily-ing the car for a few weeks and took it to the track tonight.

Discovered a few issues, brakes wont hold at launch and I plugged an injector again. Need to get a rust free fuel rail since Ive had it with this one and.

Ran a 14.92 on my first shakedown pass and plugged the injector on the 2nd run and didnt get a time slip so I called it and went home. Not a success but for the $20 for 2 passes I learned what I need to do next.

It looks good though!

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Changed the plugged injector, runs better but still has a miss, it is burning cooler by about 150F on cyl #4. Did a compression check and everything seems good. Push rods are straight, swapped plugs to known good cylinder, no bubbles in coolant.

I ohmed out the new coil I got last month and the #1 and #4 posts measured 17k ohm, didnt think anything of it since my old bad one was totally open across two sets of posts. Assumed any ohm was good and open was bad. Now I am reading anything over 13.5k ohm is bad.

Sick of burning up coils and I have a set of LS heat sink coils on the shelf. If I ohm test the coil again tonight and it is bad i'm putting LS coils on this and going with the dynamic EFI COP setup.

Buick Ignition Interface

 

[MNcarbturbo]

I think my coil is dead. It was new a month ago (I guess "used" but I bought it from a guy that had it as a known good spare)

Had 11.5 k ohm when I bought it and now it has ~17.5k ohm across each tower. Kinda makes me mad I had maybe 200 miles on it and 1 pass at the track before it sh!t the bed but its the only explanation I have at this time.

#4 was cold yesterday and #5 is cold today by 100F according to my IR thermometer. #4 is back to same as the other 4.

I did a leak down test and it held shop air great, checked valve lift on #4, checked good. There is nothing mechanical that is jumping out at me. Odd that the injector plugged at the same time as the coil failing but I guess thats what you get. I guess I didnt even check if the injectors were plugged to think of it, coil might have died at the track hard on #4 WOT and flooded the cylinder causing it to run rough?

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Ordered the Dynamic EFI LS coil driver and started modifying the spare set of heat sink LS coils I had on hand. Got all the parts just been busy doing other stuff.

Harness is 1/2 done, brackets to the valve covers still need to be done and I need to buy plug wires or steal them off my other LS cars as a security measure

And my brakes were terrible at the track last time, master is starting to seep out the rear seal and the rotors are wore bad. Was at the salvage yard and stumbled on a set of 2wd blazer disks so I grabbed those. I need to grab one of those 80 tornado disk brake big bore master cylinders and get these spindles cleaned up and installed once the coils are done.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Swapped to my Blazer front disks and a disk/disk Toronodo/Riviera master after some issues (salvage yard spindles I bought were randomly belltech lowering spindles and caused some issues) but I had some stockers on the shelf and got them working. Brakes are much more confident now and I can brake boost up to 1-2 PSI before I start pushing through the brakes.

Also got my AC parts in and vac'ed the system and charged it last night. 83F today, 38F out the vents. LUXURY

Next up? I guess turbo hood.

 

[Mark T-TB]

^^^ Fast with Class (and cool, too)

 

[MNcarbturbo]

My turbo hood is a bit rough and needs some TLC.

Buy considering they are pretty hard to find Im not complaining.

Down to bare steel with rust and dents. It looks like the drivers rear side got wacked with a baseball bat

 

[TurboTGuy]

Man, that hood has" three or four lumps" in it..........